"EMILEE" Our 1999 BlueBird TC2000 Full Conversion

[david.dgeorge07]

Just caught up on your thread! Looks good!

As for the pockets I had those filled with spray foam (along with pretty much everything else). I feel like that's a pretty effective way to seal everything up and prevent water settling and leaking.

The closed cell spray foam isn't a cure all, but it does a lot to seal and protect.

Good luck with the build!

[fadderall]

Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07

Just caught up on your thread! Looks good!

As for the pockets I had those filled with spray foam (along with pretty much everything else). I feel like that's a pretty effective way to seal everything up and prevent water settling and leaking.

The closed cell spray foam isn't a cure all, but it does a lot to seal and protect.

Good luck with the build!

Thanks David! Good luck on your travels. BTW: How are those cool skylights you made holding up? The wife wants skylights everywhere and I like your low profile idea.

Take care.

[fadderall]

FLOOR DONE!!

Long story short, I ditched the Rustoleum primer and got Prep and Etch then Bulls Eye 3-2-1 primer (rated for zinc).

The Prep and Etch is weird stuff. Let it sit on the rust overnight then soaked the whole floor to Etch for about an hour. Finally, rinsed it all out. For someone that was afraid to bring even a bucket of water in my bus, I have now hosed it out several times

Today, I took off the lettering,bluebirds and reflective tape in prep for painting roof. Interesting that the Bluebird logo in front is a decal but the stripe behind it is paint.

Used
Shark steam mop. Effective. Used without mop. Just put plastic up to side letters and pump, then scrape off.
Heat gun. Effective but not always necessary in the Las Vegas heat.
3M Eraser wheel pin stripe remover rubber drill wheel thingy. Very Effective. On my bus this ate up almost everything. Crazy cool device. Ate up the battery on my Dewalt 20V drill in no time. Borrowed a buddies old corded drill. It did the job, but going forward, I am going to pick up or borrow a drill with a handle (like my grinder). Holding the drill by the body burned the crap out of my hands. The best hand position always seemed to be right in front of the hot exhaust.
Anyone use on a grinder?

NEXT STEPS
Paint the roof Tropicool or Elastomeric.
RAISE THE ROOF? Spent hours today trying to finally decide this one way or another. No way I could do this myself or even attempt. Not sure where to go to get it done reasonably. I saw the posts about $10k-$20k shops and no thanks. Waiting on an estimate from someone locally but if its not really cheap I think we have decided to stay with stock height. Is it more expensive to raise below the window instead of above? I want to keep the original windows.

Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 (made by Rustoleum)

AHHHH Fresh Clean Floor

Primer filled some nail holes not others.



Back again tomorrow 6am.

[david.dgeorge07]

Originally Posted by fadderall

Thanks David! Good luck on your travels. BTW: How are those cool skylights you made holding up? The wife wants skylights everywhere and I like your low profile idea.



Take care.

They are doing great! But they get dirty on the outside and it is a pain to get on the roof and clean them. Also, they let in a lot of heat with the light. We have covers for them that we have used a lot when in hot weather.

I like them though.

[ChrisFL]

Great job man! I've toyed with the idea of a roof raise as well, but I cant justify it since our skoolie is just for us to be weekend warriors. Hope you can find a shop that has a decent price. 10-20k? Not a damn chance (for me to even consider)

By the way, not to thread jack, but wife and I bought our bus yesterday!

See you on the livestream soon hopefully (knumatad). Too bad I couldnt make the damn handles the same. Also, I sub'd using a free trial from amazon prime after I figured it out. No clue what any of that stuff does... I'm clueless with twitch.

[fadderall]

Originally Posted by ChrisFL

Great job man! I've toyed with the idea of a roof raise as well, but I cant justify it since our skoolie is just for us to be weekend warriors. Hope you can find a shop that has a decent price. 10-20k? Not a damn chance (for me to even consider)

By the way, not to thread jack, but wife and I bought our bus yesterday!

See you on the livestream soon hopefully (knumatad). Too bad I couldnt make the damn handles the same. Also, I sub'd using a free trial from amazon prime after I figured it out. No clue what any of that stuff does... I'm clueless with twitch.

Thanks for the sub! Gonna finally paint the roof with Tropicool tomorrow early am. It got way too hot today.
CONGRATS on the bus!!!! What did you get? Got any pics? Did you start a build thread yet? Cant wait to see what you do keep me posted.

[fadderall]

Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07

They are doing great! But they get dirty on the outside and it is a pain to get on the roof and clean them. Also, they let in a lot of heat with the light. We have covers for them that we have used a lot when in hot weather.

I like them though.

Nice. I hadnt thought about cleaning. Maybe rig up a washer nozzle from a car windshield LOL. How do you get on your roof? Through the hatch?

[ChrisFL]

Originally Posted by fadderall

Thanks for the sub! Gonna finally paint the roof with Tropicool tomorrow early am. It got way too hot today.
CONGRATS on the bus!!!! What did you get? Got any pics? Did you start a build thread yet? Cant wait to see what you do keep me posted.

Thanks man. What made you go with tropicool vs the elastomeric option? I'm blanking on the name... just curious. I was leaning toward the elasto since it should seal better, doesnt grip dirt as much and just seemed like a better option from what I've seen discussed? I know you do your research, so your feedback is def valuable

We got an '03 Int'l rear engine 3000. 40' of deliciousness. Looks a lot like yours.

I just started a thread! http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/li...tml#post282555

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by ChrisFL

Thanks man. What made you go with tropicool vs the elastomeric option? I'm blanking on the name... just curious. I was leaning toward the elasto since it should seal better, doesnt grip dirt as much and just seemed like a better option from what I've seen discussed? I know you do your research, so your feedback is def valuable

We got an '03 Int'l rear engine 3000. 40' of deliciousness. Looks a lot like yours.

I just started a thread! http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/li...tml#post282555

Henry's is elastomeric coating. Anything with silicone or rubberized product will be considered "elastomeric". The Henry's I'm using is 100% silicone. From what I have experienced nothing sticks to silicone once cured, so I would think it stayed clean longer. Some one her painted their side walls with another brand and as I recall everyone said it had a strange texture and picked up dirt and looked like crap.

[PNW_Steve]

Faderall,

When I was looking for help with my roof raise I reached out to Dzlfreek on YouTube.

He seemed like he was open to working with me on it and I was seriously considering driving the bus to Pahrump for his help.

Then Asetechrail offered to help me out right here in Dayton so we didn't need to make the trip.

You may want to ping Dzlfreek and see if he'll give you a hand.

[fadderall]

Originally Posted by ChrisFL

Thanks man. What made you go with tropicool vs the elastomeric option? I'm blanking on the name... just curious. I was leaning toward the elasto since it should seal better, doesnt grip dirt as much and just seemed like a better option from what I've seen discussed? I know you do your research, so your feedback is def valuable

We got an '03 Int'l rear engine 3000. 40' of deliciousness. Looks a lot like yours.

I just started a thread! http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/li...tml#post282555

Originally Posted by o1marc

Henry's is elastomeric coating. Anything with silicone or rubberized product will be considered "elastomeric". The Henry's I'm using is 100% silicone. From what I have experienced nothing sticks to silicone once cured, so I would think it stayed clean longer. Some one her painted their side walls with another brand and as I recall everyone said it had a strange texture and picked up dirt and looked like crap.

I agree with Marc, the %100 silicone should be the LEAST likely to attract dirt. It also is the most durable against sun and weather. Being 100% silicone I thought it would also seal better than the other coatings. I look at it like a nice blanket of caulk that covers the whole roof.

As Marc said they are all elastomeric roof coatings. I am sure there are other brands but I focused on Henry. The 100% silicone version is Henry Tropicool. The other Henry products are much cheaper ($60-$80 per 5gal vs $229 for Tropicool 5gal) but not the 100% silicone. I think my decision came down to
1. I thought silicone would seal best any small leaks that might be in roof.
2. I thought the silicone would last longer.
3. Being from the desert, anything that rejects heat appeals to me. With that in mind and at this price range it felt like might as well use the best.
One 5gal bucket will cover a 40' bus down to the window awnings with 2 coats.

Only time will tell if it was the right choice.

[fadderall]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

Faderall,

When I was looking for help with my roof raise I reached out to Dzlfreek on YouTube.

He seemed like he was open to working with me on it and I was seriously considering driving the bus to Pahrump for his help.

Then Asetechrail offered to help me out right here in Dayton so we didn't need to make the trip.

You may want to ping Dzlfreek and see if he'll give you a hand.

Thanks Steve! I think we may have decided not to raise, but I will reach out to Dzl and see if I can change my mind....again.

I heard you had some fun pulling out dents in your bus. Someone mentioned a tree that no longer stands? Anyway, I got a couple dents in the top of my front cap. The metal is real thick. Any advice on getting them out? More trouble than its worth?

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by fadderall

I agree with Marc, the %100 silicone should be the LEAST likely to attract dirt. It also is the most durable against sun and weather. Being 100% silicone I thought it would also seal better than the other coatings. I look at it like a nice blanket of caulk that covers the whole roof.

As Marc said they are all elastomeric roof coatings. I am sure there are other brands but I focused on Henry. The 100% silicone version is Henry Tropicool. The other Henry products are much cheaper ($60-$80 per 5gal vs $229 for Tropicool 5gal) but not the 100% silicone. I think my decision came down to
1. I thought silicone would seal best any small leaks that might be in roof.
2. I thought the silicone would last longer.
3. Being from the desert, anything that rejects heat appeals to me. With that in mind and at this price range it felt like might as well use the best.
One 5gal bucket will cover a 40' bus down to the window awnings with 2 coats.

Only time will tell if it was the right choice.

No argument here....

[fadderall]

ELEASTOMERIC HENRY TROPICOOL 100% SILICONE PAINTED ON ROOF DOWN TO TOP OF WINDOWS.

Fun Fun stuff.
I finished "painting" the roof. I used the Henry's Tropicool 100% silicone elastomeric coating. I use the term painting loosely because this stuff is not like any other paint I have used. It is thick and dries differently. You need a new roller for each coat (unless you maybe submerged the old one in the bucket). I tried the old wrap it in plastic trick I have used on latex and oil but it just dried up into a rubber mass of roller and plastic bag. It goes on thick and gloopy. The fumes were not too bad in the morning but by second coat it got stinky.
Also, looking into the fresh first coat while the sun was right overhead nearly blinded me! BRIGHT WHITE is an understatement!

I painted the top of the roof and down to the top of the windows (the drip deals or awnings not sure what they are called). I also painted the rear cap where the flasher lights are. I did not paint down over the front cap so that we could paint it body color and put some stuff up there.
I masked the bus along the window awning line with masking tape and 1' paper roll. In retrospect, the plastic roll that is like 6' wide unfolded might have been worth the extra expense. Got just a few drops on the body.
I masked the warning lights in the rear cap so I could keep the black background. Im pretty happy with the way the curve of the black came out.

I was worried about pulling the tape. The Tropicool is 100% silicone and dries like a sheet of silicone caulk. After pulling it off some tools, I was worried it might lift up when I pulled the tape. I was careful but had no issues. Masking tape came off clean.

My opinion on the maker lights. Dont take them off to paint the roof with elastomeric coating. I started taking them off then thought about it. I left one half off and the others on. The ones that I took off and masked got in the way. better to just mask in place, paint around and squeeze in the tropicool as you go by.

Procedure I used.
-1. Removed decals in paint area with 3m eraser wheel, heat gun and scraper.
0. Sanded where decals removed to get rid of the gloss.
1. Inspected roof for any big holes, cracks or leaks and was prepared to fill with Henry silicone caulk.
2. Rinsed down roof.
3. Washed roof with TSP substitute. Poured the whole bottle in a 5gal bucket and filled 3/4 with water.
4. Scrubbed roof with a nylon brush on pole, liberally slopping the TSP sub on the roof.
5. Rinsed the TSP sub. The bottle did not say to rinse just to let it dry. I rinsed it anyway.
6. Let dry
7. Applied first coat of Henry Tropicool 100% silicone elastomeric coating. I started on the sides and used a trim roller. The idea was to get the coating on the awnings and in between windows first. Sort of like cutting in on a paint job.
8. Used a 12" roller and rolled up the sides to the roof to complete the cut in. found that it dripped some and went over to smooth out.
9. Went on roof (through rear Emergency Exit Hatch) and started at front rolled on the Tropicool to meet the sides.
10. Let dry. It says 2-6 hours for recoat.
11. Second coat. Decided to roll from the ground with a pole and ladder. Not the fastest way or the most comfortable. But, maybe the safest in midday 110+ Las Vegas heat. I think if I would have gone on the roof to complete I might have fallen by the end.
12. touched up areas and removed tape after a few hours dry time.

I think it came out ok for a first try with this material. Learned that it is a little odd being on the roof of a school bus. The curve messes with your brain and gives you the feeling that you could roll off the side at any time. Makes you think it is much less safe than a square roof. Learned not to look at the roof in midday sun when freshly painted. Learned how close I can get to heat stroke without going over LOL

Its done now on to the next steps.

[PNW_Steve]

Originally Posted by fadderall

Thanks Steve! I think we may have decided not to raise, but I will reach out to Dzl and see if I can change my mind....again.

I heard you had some fun pulling out dents in your bus. Someone mentioned a tree that no longer stands? Anyway, I got a couple dents in the top of my front cap. The metal is real thick. Any advice on getting them out? More trouble than its worth?

I used an angle grinder and a sawzall.........

[BlackJohn]

Can you get at the dents on the cap from the inside? They should hammer out pretty easily with a bfh and a block of wood against them.


John

[o1marc]

Hopefully I won't need the sunglasses you needed with the Tan coating. Looks good. After going on gloppy it flows out smooth during curing ,correct?

[PNW_Steve]

I started out with my heaviest sledge hammer. The dents didn't budge.

I drilled holes at the deepest part of the big dent, attached a come-along from dent to tree, winched the cable as tight as I could and then pounded on the dent from the inside. Barely visible progress after an hour.

Then I moved the come-along from the tree to the trailer hitch on my Dodge 3500. I eased the truck forward until I was putting a load on the motor and had someone pound on the dents.

Four hours of pulling and pounding made it obvious to me that bus body repair is not my forte. On to plan B....

I decided to cut it out and make a near flat spot for the outdoor portion of the mini-splits.

I hope you have more success at dent repair than I did.

[BlackJohn]

PNW Steve it all makes sense now removing dents.
Those panels are stamped by hydraulic presses delivering hundreds of tons of force. No wonder you took plan B and put new metal in.

Amazing the shapes that can be made out of one piece of steel.
Moral of the story..don't be running into trees with your bus roof..or anything else for that matter hear that Mark?



John

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by BlackJohn

PNW Steve it all makes sense now removing dents.
Those panels are stamped by hydraulic presses delivering hundreds of tons of force. No wonder you took plan B and put new metal in.

Amazing the shapes that can be made out of one piece of steel.
Moral of the story..don't be running into trees with your bus roof..or anything else for that matter hear that Mark?



John

You mean me? it's Marc.
I was surprised when I looked inside my gutted Airstream trailer. I noticed all 4 corners had big 15-20" dents in each corner. Instead of "fixing" the dent, they just cut the dent out and then laid a new skin over the old one.