Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 10-09-2017, 11:00 AM   #1
Almost There
 
yello's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Tracy, CA atm
Posts: 74
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Crown Supercoach Series II
Engine: Detroit 6V92TAC
Epoxy Wood Ceiling etc

For my 91 Crown I have decide to gut most of it. The ceiling walls and probably the floor. I want to live full time in it and it will be in desert heat and Colorado winters, so tin can thing won't cut it. I need insulation and wood.
My concern atm is epoxy types. I have been looking at boat builders for ideas here. West system 105/207 epoxy for cabinets, ceiling furring and shower walls. Floor I'm considering same epoxy on some wood that I have not chosen. My main concern is joining and vibration.
West systems has something called g flex but at $55 shipped per 32ozs that might be overkill. I want to join wood that can handle condensation and vibration. Anyone that has wisdom or ideas to share is welcome .

Part of my overall plan is to keep it light and moisture resistant... using epoxy and wood.

Sent from my Coolpad 3632A using Tapatalk

yello is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2017, 11:39 AM   #2
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 23
As a carpenter I would think epoxy on an entire interior is a bit of overkill regular varnish would be fine epoxy is used more on boat hulls which are actually in the water constantly.
I've made picnic tables that lasted for years outdoors through winters and all sorts of abuse made out of pine and covered with spar varnish which is a boatbuilders varnish but even that I think is overkill for an interior. The only source of water should be condensation from the metal and an air gap would take care of that.
Alternatively you could just use a stain and let the wood evaporate whatever moisture it takes on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
TheHex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2017, 12:13 PM   #3
Traveling
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Midwest
Posts: 2,573
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: '00
Quote:
Originally Posted by yello View Post

Part of my overall plan is to keep it light and moisture resistant... using epoxy and wood.
Def overkill, in my opinion. I'd go to big box and get Titebond II for $18/gallon. I make cutting boards out of this stuff.

Click image for larger version

Name:	glu.jpg
Views:	16
Size:	49.6 KB
ID:	16355


Great for handling outdoor woodworking projects, the Titebond II 128 fl. oz. Premium Wood Glue offers ANSI-Type II water-resistance and is FDA approved for indirect food contact, and is also ideal for radio frequency gluing systems. The glue is ideal for fixing outdoor furniture, mailboxes, birdhouses, planters and more with its strong initial tack, fast set time and superior strength.

Weatherproof one-part wood glue ideal for exterior projects
Easy clean up with water
Sets in 60 minutes and cures in 24 hrs
Great for use with outdoor furniture, mailboxes, bird houses and more
Meets ANSI Type-II water-resistance standards
FDA approved for indirect food contact
Conforms to ASTM D-4236
Ideal for radio frequency (R-F) and hot press gluing systems
Unaffected by finishes
Excellent sandability
UV-resistant wood glue
Rusty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2017, 01:20 PM   #4
Bus Crazy
 
Njsurf73's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,497
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 24v
Rated Cap: 72 pax
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
Def overkill, in my opinion. I'd go to big box and get Titebond II for $18/gallon. I make cutting boards out of this stuff.

Attachment 16355


Great for handling outdoor woodworking projects, the Titebond II 128 fl. oz. Premium Wood Glue offers ANSI-Type II water-resistance and is FDA approved for indirect food contact, and is also ideal for radio frequency gluing systems. The glue is ideal for fixing outdoor furniture, mailboxes, birdhouses, planters and more with its strong initial tack, fast set time and superior strength.

Weatherproof one-part wood glue ideal for exterior projects
Easy clean up with water
Sets in 60 minutes and cures in 24 hrs
Great for use with outdoor furniture, mailboxes, bird houses and more
Meets ANSI Type-II water-resistance standards
FDA approved for indirect food contact
Conforms to ASTM D-4236
Ideal for radio frequency (R-F) and hot press gluing systems
Unaffected by finishes
Excellent sandability
UV-resistant wood glue
I use tite-bond, but had no idea it was that versatile. You should get a commission from them. Awesome info

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Njsurf73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2017, 02:11 PM   #5
Traveling
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Midwest
Posts: 2,573
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: '00
Quote:
Originally Posted by Njsurf73 View Post
I use tite-bond, but had no idea it was that versatile. You should get a commission from them. Awesome info

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
There are actually 2 formulas- Original in blue isn't waterproof, so it cleans-up easier for regular cabinetry.
Rusty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2017, 02:25 PM   #6
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Remember that moisture can and will collect on both sides of the wood simply due to condensation. Personally, I'd opt for a more "breathable" finish on a ceiling. As Hex noted, that way minor moisture can evaporate. If you have or get a roof leak...well, that's a whole 'nuther matter.
Tango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2017, 03:24 PM   #7
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
I've used Titebond II for years.

It is stronger than the wood you are joining. Properly cured, the wood will break before the joint fails.

It is also water-soluble before it cures, so even the waterproof stuff can be cleaned up with a damp cloth after a joint is clamped.

However, generally you would simply let it "bead" up from the joint and leave it to harden, then remove the excess with a chisel or sandpaper. Trying to wipe it off can lead to the adjacent wood becoming reluctant to take a stain.
__________________
Steve Bracken

Build Thread
Twigg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2017, 03:36 PM   #8
Traveling
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Midwest
Posts: 2,573
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: '00
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg View Post

However, generally you would simply let it "bead" up from the joint and leave it to harden, then remove the excess with a chisel or sandpaper. Trying to wipe it off can lead to the adjacent wood becoming reluctant to take a stain.
One step further is use the blue tape to protect the adjacent wood if new to gluing wood, or like Twigg says- you get splotchy joints, and nobody like splotchy joints.


Click image for larger version

Name:	Tape.JPG
Views:	11
Size:	21.3 KB
ID:	16360
Rusty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2017, 04:45 PM   #9
Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Lake geneva Wisconsin
Posts: 199
Year: 93
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: 7.3 idi
To avoid splotchy joints just wet the entire peice of wood then the stain will be uniform. Or sand the area you got wet problem solved.
Greatestrr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2017, 04:48 PM   #10
Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Lake geneva Wisconsin
Posts: 199
Year: 93
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: 7.3 idi
If you use wood like hard maple, white oak, cedar, teak and other weather resistant wood. Then a simple coat of mineral oil will protect it. To take that up a notch, melt beeswax and mix with mineral oil wipe on. Waterproof finish. Example butcherblock countertops are done this way.
Greatestrr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2017, 05:11 PM   #11
Almost There
 
yello's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Tracy, CA atm
Posts: 74
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Crown Supercoach Series II
Engine: Detroit 6V92TAC
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greatestrr View Post
If you use wood like hard maple, white oak, cedar, teak and other weather resistant wood. Then a simple coat of mineral oil will protect it. To take that up a notch, melt beeswax and mix with mineral oil wipe on. Waterproof finish. Example butcherblock countertops are done this way.
I can see your point about overkill. I'm glad that I was wrong since my idea was probably more difficult and more expensive. I was thinking of something lighter for ceiling and now maybe a hard wood floor. Going to seal that roof tight first. It's not awful but I don't want all the work undone by a roof oversight. Ty!

Sent from my Coolpad 3632A using Tapatalk
yello is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2017, 05:38 PM   #12
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 50
Actually, there's 3. III is waterproof, II is water resistant.
DT Rutledge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2017, 06:23 PM   #13
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 334
Not trying to hi jack but.

What you guys do about the 1/4 round on the sides here.
I would like to leave it as natural as possible.
Attached Thumbnails
image.jpg  
Seriousracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:10 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.