Well, I got a bunch done over Christmas Break, but it's never enough. Can't do any more work in the garage - its occupied.
The teeter totter ramp in the garage is finally bolted down. It still has the temp transition plates on the back that I'll leave in place until my parking chocks are in place and bolted in. I probably should not have cut the tie down straps if I ever have to change my strapping method. I know the rear has to criss-cross, but the easiest way to do it in the back of the bus was to wrap the straps around the trailers crossbars and then hook into the tie down mounts.
The front straps will always be a challenge because the front floor tie-down and winch are right under the the front of the ramp. I have to remember to strap the front loosely while the teeter totter is up in the air. If I wait till its level, its a real tight squeeze getting under the ramp to hook under the passengers side of the car.
I'm still waiting on installing my garage lights. I got an 11000 lumen 48” overhead LED shop light for my birthday in October and just ordered three 500W 8000 lumen halogen worklights on Black Friday. Between the four of them I should have daylight at night back there. Two of the worklights will be mounted on the corners of the front wall. They will be mounted such that either can be taken from the wall and have a stand that can be used throughout the bus. The third is a backup. Is there such a thing as a light switch that can handle 1500W??? I'm currently using the breaker with only one light on at a time.
So back up front to work over the winter.
The floor is down and it looks great. I hate to have to start moving stuff in and working on carpentry and electrical and plumbing with the possibility of damaging it, but it's gotta get done.
Next in was the kitchen sink. But first, I had to mount the backsplash and of course trying to tie things together I used the same aluminum diamondplate as the walls of the garage. I also installed and mostly wired the systems monitor/switch panel and an exhaust fan that pulls the air into the refrigerator vent.
After test fitting the two base cabinets I bought, I was not happy with the color match to the overheads and doors. I bought 12 oz of Minwax stain and started thinly coating the cabinets until they were as dark as the overheads. Now I need to get some good dirt and rub it into the stain for that weathered look.
Making all the flat surfaces match with the same covering really helps tie everything together. The sink countertop, the table, and the top of the cabinet below the TV are all the same material.
As you can see, the TV mount is up, but I think the arm is too short (10" extension). I probably should have gone with the 20 extension, but I couldn't find one that allows the screen to rotate up to portrait mode for the tablet interface. Having such big screens in the house has spoiled me. This Black Friday special 22" LCD just looks tiny in the bus.
My gal convinced me I don't need an "entertainment center" with everything that's built into the tablet dock (I think she wants to put skillets, pots, and pans down there). The wall has two 60mm Cable Cord Grommet Holes for cords going in and out of the cabinet. In the cabinet there is 110 and 12V going in it with a power sensing inverter to switch from AC to 12V inverted to 110 should the power go out or when in-transit with the generator off.
On the pic above, you may notice a strange additional set of drawer rails that are actually connected to the countertop. There was a discussion here somewhere about hiding spaces on peoples busses. Mine is the back of the 12” base cabinet. I put drawer slides under the countertop so it can slide forward aprox 24”. The cabinet is only 28” deep so there's 12”x12” behind it not being used. I'll probably put a small gun safe and fire proof box in there. When the countertop is in place you can't tell it actually slides out. But with a great deal of effort, the countertop lifts up in the front and rolls forward on the rails. Hehe.
The luan wall in the bathroom will be installed as soon as all the wiring for the TV/computer is complete. Notice these 2x4s are turned sideways to save space. Looking above, this wall does not go all the way to the ceiling because the vista windows are directly above it and I want that light to spread into the front as much as possible.
Having the RV fan in the bathroom with the open-top wall pulls air thru the bus well. The loveable loo is the only wood that's not painted or stained to match the other woodwork. It has five coats of polyurethane so cleaning in there should be quick and easy. With the seat slightly to the left, I have a hatch on the right full of sawdust for the toilet.
I only have two of the tinted windows in on the passenger side. I ordered the glass for two more last month and am taking my time re-assembling them so they don't leak or break. I had to seal a small leak in my door's lower window last month after a week of torrential rain.
I really like the way the kitchen turned out. The sink fit perfectly; the countertop is gorgeous; the drawer face shown flips down smoothly; the missing drawer is being fitted for my induction cook-top; and there's plenty of room underneath it all for the water pump, filter, plumbing, and wiring.
I hung my privacy curtains which match the base color of the furniture. I'll have to go out to the bus one night and see how much privacy they really provide.
I haven't installed the wall yet on the passenger side because I have to replace the windows first, then attach the metal plate to the bottom of the windows that will hold the table up, and I need to run another 12V line to my porch light that I don't have yet.
The more I do, the more I find needs done. This is really frustrating especially because I don't have some of the specialized tools or skills to get some of this done.