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Old 11-17-2004, 12:33 PM   #21
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 245
I used 16 gauge galvanized steel sheeting on our Bus and riveted them in.
At each corner of the sheets I used a metal screw for some added safety.
Here’s our page…where you can see how I did it…
http://www.mobilehomestead.com/newbus/latcho1.htm

Michael
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Old 11-17-2004, 03:23 PM   #22
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Summit, Oregon
Posts: 117
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: DD 6-71N
Windows and other stuff

Hi Les,
A couple more things about the windows I got from NW RV Supply. First, They were made to mount vertically, meaning, the drain holes are in the sliding end of the windows. To lay them on their side, which I did, you need to drill drain holes in the side that will be down. This is no big deal, it’s easy and it works well. I know because it’s rained quite a bit since I put them in. On the last window, the bathroom window, when I was drilling the drain holes, I just barely touched the glass with the drill bit. It shattered like tempered glass does. Bummer, I’d already cut the hole in the sheet metal. This was the only window this size I could find. SO, I had to order one to fit the hole from Peninsula Glass in Vancouver, Wa. It was at this point that learned what a good deal these windows were. 16”X16” Cost me $225 and I had to drive up and pick it up because they wanted hundreds of dollars to crate and ship it.
Second, They are bronze tinted. You can barely tell that they aren’t gray. I like it but you may not.
Just wanted you to know all the facts.

Hi JB, and Michael
I don't know what guage the metal was, It was about a 1/16 th" thick. I don't know if you would want to go any thicker. What I used was pretty heavy. I had it bent on the bottom to match the way it comes out at the bottom of the old window opening. It fit under the rain gutter at the top. I could only get 10 foot pieces because no one could bend any longer than that. I secured it with sika-flex and rivits and then had a buddy come and weld the peices together vertically. I had to take it off once and let me tell you sika-flex does not come off for any reason. You have to cut it off with a razor sharp knife.
Ps. I put the solar panels on the roof today. I need to bolt them on and wire them. I put a couple of pictures on my bus page.
YEEEEHAAAAA
Jerry
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Old 11-17-2004, 07:52 PM   #23
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Fir Island, Washington
Posts: 83
Crown Windows

Hi Jerry , I appreciate the info on the windows. With your info and experience it looks like all I am lacking for the trip to the window place is some money. This sounds like it is very do able. How thick is the collar that is used to sandwich the windows together?

Later, J.B.
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Old 11-17-2004, 10:27 PM   #24
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Summit, Oregon
Posts: 117
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: DD 6-71N
Windows

Hi JB,
I don't know exactly. BUT, they go thru the sheet metal, thru the wall, thru 1/4" plywood on the inside wall, ( thats as far as I've gotton on the walls) and will go thru 3/8" knotty pine. At this point it looks like I need another 1/8" for the window rings to be tight up against the inside wall after the knotty pine goes in. I'm not sure what I'm going to do about that. I'll worry about in the spring.
Good Luck
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Old 11-18-2004, 12:00 AM   #25
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Location: Fir Island, Washington
Posts: 83
Window depth

Hi Jerry . The reason I am wondering is because I think I know how you did the skinning. You came down under the drip lip and made a 90* bend to rest on the window edge then 90* down to the extruded portion under the window area. If you are short in window depth to seal from the inside then maybe it would be better to come down from the drip lip (on the outside under the attach screws) and run straight onto the extruded portion to gain a little bit more space for the sandwich ring to attach. What do you think? I know this is a pain to answer and reanswer but you really are a big assist and you do have the same bus.

Thanks, J.B.
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Old 11-18-2004, 01:30 PM   #26
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Summit, Oregon
Posts: 117
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: DD 6-71N
Stuff

It’s only the typing that’s a pain in the ass. I could talk to you about this stuff all day.
First I took off the rain gutter, then I fastened on the sheet metal, then I had it welded.
If you do what you suggest, then you would need a spacer on each upright support. Which would be fine, but I don’t quite understand about the attachment at the top on the drip lip. Here’s a picture of a bus (you have to blow it up quite a bit) . It looks like he did the same thing as I did with the sheet metal but his windows are larger. Which makes them in at the top under the rain gutter and out farther at the bottom. It looks like he has a triangular shaped spacer to fill in where the windows attach. If you look closely you can see how they stick out at the bottom. I have seen another, better picture of this bus but I can’t find it.
I decided to do it the way I did because I thought it would be easier to do and it would look better. So far I am happy the way they look and having the lip at the bottom gave it a place to sit while I attached it. No need for a bunch of clamps or other people. I just wish I had a paint job.
I was not interested in the wall thickness because I plan to use wood for the inside rings. The windows are glued in from the outside.
Which ever way you decide, you’ll be happier doing it your way.
There is an awful lot of learning to do to convert a bus. Let me know if you get by this way. You can come see what I’ve done so far.
See Ya
Jerry

http://buskidspage.tripod.com/robhuntercrown1.htm
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Old 11-22-2004, 12:59 PM   #27
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Fir Island, Washington
Posts: 83
Rear Queen Bed

Hi Everyone , Let me take this opportunity to wish each and every one of you a very happy and safe Thanks giving. I hope you all celebrate this wonderful holiday in your own special way.

I have reached a milestone(for me at least) in my conversion of my Crown bus "Farther". I have just built the queen rear pedestal bed for the master bedroom.My goal was to have a rear queen. Since the Crown was not intended to be a motor home by the manufacturer it took a little bit of planning to place a 60" W X 80" L bed in the rear and still have some room to move around. I used a pedestal design with an 8" toe kick on three sides. That way you can stand next to the bed and not have to turn your feet sideways I will also have to cut the rear sheet metal on the rear seat area so that instead of a slant for the original seat back area it will now be a staight up and down 90* bend. This allows an additional 4 1/2" rear movement. A piece of sheet metal with a 90 * bend to it , a touch with the welder and were done. It sounds all so easy. It is not. The planning is the hard part. Each of us has different goals or ideas and that is what makes it interesting. At this point I have 20" from the entry wall to the bedroom to the end of the bed and 15" on each side. Not a lot but surely more comfortable than climbing on and off of the bed. I still have room for the 100 Gal water tank under the bed. I should be finished with the bed by Thanksgiving and then on to the relocation of the floor heater to the closet which will heat the rear of "Farther" on the road. then on to the diesel Dickenson heater, and the on to the, ....... Well you get the idea. I am still working on pictures as I am not too great with the picture posting thing.

Later, J.B.
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Old 11-24-2004, 12:38 PM   #28
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Fir Island, Washington
Posts: 83
Queen Pedestal Bed install

Hi Again , I made an error in my previous post. The side clearance on the bed is 12" (not 15") but is still room tp move around.

Later, J.B.
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Old 11-29-2004, 11:39 PM   #29
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Fir Island, Washington
Posts: 83
"Farther" Progress

Hi There , Last week I did get the area over the left front wheel well framed for the Dickenson Antartic diesel stove and put it in place. I bought a 10 CF refer at Home Despot for a really cheap price (Last One type of thing) and placed it in it's location in the bus.. The tag on the compressor say's it uses 1.2 amps. This week I will try to move the 8 - 6v Dyno house batts into the spare tire well (my new battery box) and maybe get the battery boxes located. Once that's done maybe a clean up and try to secure the galley cabinets in place. I have been screwing 3/4" plywood down on the floor as I go along. The Crown has 3" of plywood under the form fitted rubber mat but I want to install hardwood T&G floors. the rubber was not stable enough for that type of install. I also have to hook up the rear bus heater that I moved to the hanging closet. At this point I have a lot of stuff in place and most of the framing is done but there is a ton of work to finish the installs. The weather here has been pretty crummy. 29* last night, and tonight Rainy and cold. It's hard to get motivated when the days aren't much better. Oh well, a little at a time.

Later,J.B.
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Old 12-09-2004, 08:22 PM   #30
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Fir Island, Washington
Posts: 83
Farher Progress

Hi All , I took a week or so off. I did intend to work on "Farther" but was delayed by the install of my wife's new kitchen cabinets and tile install.(somehow that took priority) I had a great stroke of luck this week. I was at my favorite boat surplus place in Bellingham a town just north of me when I spied a pile of new surplus windows that had just come in.. All brand new with screens and openers. It seems they were surplus from the Nordic tug factory near where I live. The price was very, very, good. Best of all they fit the rather weird sized openings of the Crown. I bought 8 windows which leaves me just two short of the full compliment needed. Just next door to the boat place is a salvidge place named The Restore. They had new maple T & G flooring still in 80 sf bundles for the unbelieveable price of $1.50 per S.F. I bought enough to finish the floor of the bus. It was my lucky day. Now I will have to get back on the bus and work on getting some pictures to the board.

Later, J.B.
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