Finally have my bus!!! Now for the questions 😃

[SadieHawkinsSC]

Hello guys! I finally took the leap and bought a bus! I brought a 1991 Ford from a private school here in SC. It's in great shape and came with 187k miles on it. Here are some pics!!

OK here are my questions. My boyfriend and I just broke up and now he isn't helping me with my conversion project anymore. He was the one that has a good understanding of what to do. I really don't smh. It's ok because I'm utilizing you guys and YouTube to help me! I think I can do some things with guidance and outsource the majors, like electrical. I'm not converting into a tiny home but a mobile business. The bus is gutted (pic is attached) and I have already put corroseal on the floor. It was some rust but not a huge amount. I used an angle grinder to get most of it up. My ex already filled the bolt holes as well.
Now it's time for sub flooring....questions

1. Since I have Corroseal on the floor is it necessary to still paint? I was gonna use Rustoleum rust stopper like I have read that most ppl here use. The issue is that Rustoleum is oil based and the Corroseal that is already applied is water based. Is the Corroseal sufficient or should I just choose any water based exterior paint and paint the floor?

2. Do I have the right idea for the order of applying subflooring because I'm reading contradictions (specifically about a vapor barrier)

-Once the floor is painted (or not painted depending on what you guys say), I will use Furring Strips as a frame. I will use liquid nails to adhere the Furring Strips to the metal.
-I will use the Furring Strips around the bus (the sides and back) and also in the middle.
-Install 1in Insulation between the Furring Strips. Use construction adhesive to adhere to metal. Fill in gaps with great stuff.
-Is this the step where I place the vapor barrier???? I use 3mm plastic???
-Place the plywood on top and screw into the Furring Strips or just use liquid nails?
-Go around the perimeter with great stuff again to fill any gaps and cut the overage foam on top.

Thank you guys for the plethora of info on this site!!! I'm now apart of the club! Lol

[Versatile]

Hello, I am to new to have your answers. Looks like you have a great start.Steep learning curve for you. Maybe a school shop or college shop students for help.

[Tango]

Howdy & Welcome --- You'll be best served by applying some form of rust fix then a few coats of enamel. Even galvanized will eventually rust and bus floors are notorious for gathering moisture.

Read up and have a ball.

[Adventure Bus]

You mentioned great stuff. I've heard some say that it's not great for metal because it expands with moisture and can cause rust. But don't take that as fact, I'd research it. I may use the same stuff (if I can't afford spray foam insulation).

Congrats on the bus!
Are you planning on blanking out any of the windows before insulation? That would probably make it more efficient.
Basically just remove windows where walls and stuff will go, rivet, weld, or screw some sheet metal and seal it well and insulate with the walls.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[SadieHawkinsSC]

Originally Posted by Tango

Howdy & Welcome --- You'll be best served by applying some form of rust fix then a few coats of enamel. Even galvanized will eventually rust and bus floors are notorious for gathering moisture.

Read up and have a ball.

Hey Tango,

I've applied Corroseal the primer, rust converter, and paint all in one. So you are saying that I do need to paint, even after the Corroseal. Thanks!!

[SadieHawkinsSC]

Originally Posted by Adventure Bus

You mentioned great stuff. I've heard some say that it's not great for metal because it expands with moisture and can cause rust. But don't take that as fact, I'd research it. I may use the same stuff (if I can't afford spray foam insulation).

Congrats on the bus!
Are you planning on blanking out any of the windows before insulation? That would probably make it more efficient.
Basically just remove windows where walls and stuff will go, rivet, weld, or screw some sheet metal and seal it well and insulate with the walls.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Hey AB,

I will definitely look into that! I'm primarily using foam board and the great stuff will only be used to fill small nooks and crannies. I plan to do exactly what you said about the sheet metal! I'm covering a good bit of the window with 20 gauge galvanized sheet metal. I'm gonna get someone to use rivets to put on. I'll seal on both the inside and outside to be secured, or that might be overdoing it lol. Thanks!!

[AlleyCat67]

Speaking of window blanking..... I want to preserve the Skoolie look on mine, so what do you think of using sheet metal cut to fit, painted black on the exterior side, screwed down INSIDE the window, then insulate over that?

The window itself will of course be secured shut and sealed like no one's business to keep water out, because I don't want to have to rip out my walls to fix a leak.

And I will also probably paint the inside of the glass with black paint as well.... as I intend to tint the windows that will remain usable.

[Adventure Bus]

Originally Posted by AlleyCat67

Speaking of window blanking..... I want to preserve the Skoolie look on mine, so what do you think of using sheet metal cut to fit, painted black on the exterior side, screwed down INSIDE the window, then insulate over that?

The window itself will of course be secured shut and sealed like no one's business to keep water out, because I don't want to have to rip out my walls to fix a leak.

And I will also probably paint the inside of the glass with black paint as well.... as I intend to tint the windows that will remain usable.

Have you seen Steampunk Steve on YouTube? He used interior metal, laminated to a little plywood then went inside where the window opening was. He painted his the same color as the main bus, but you could easily do black. And since the posts are still there it kind of retains the skoolie look.
I'm not gonna lie... His videos are a bit long and hard to watch, but some really good information. It's like 50 something videos.

[AlleyCat67]

I have not, but I shall..... thanks for the tip.

[Adventure Bus]

Brace yourself. It's really boring. But thorough and good info

[AlleyCat67]

Skipped right to the window chapter..... I see what he was doing there, not exactly what I have in mind but I think I can adapt the process to work.... rather than replacing the window with the metal/wood piece I will leave the window in place and install the blank on top of it. I'll have to use thinner plywood of course but since it's not structural it shouldn't matter. I could probably get by with just the wood as well since it theoretically won't be exposed to weather... will decide that when the time comes to actually do it.

[Adventure Bus]

Oh. I didn't realize you were talking of actually leaving the windows in. But just leaving the overall look. If this the case then I'd just put a really really good coat of black paint on the window and put the insulation right onto it and not cover it then.... But really I think the best strongest option would be to remove the window completely.
I don't know if you could really cover it from the inside with the thin metal and plywood method because I don't know if it would be flat enough. I'd have to run to the bus to look at it but it's 2 degrees and snowing... So nope. Haha.

[AlleyCat67]

That's why I would paint the window... then it wouldn't matter as much if it was a little off, plus with the other windows tinted it would be more of a match. Plus it would give an air space between window and inside, with an added benefit of insulation not soaking up any condensation on the inside of the window.

[Adventure Bus]

Ya. No need to even do metal then. Just a thin sheet of treated plywood over the inside of the painted window.
I can see the appeal, I think I'm going to remove mine just to avoid any wierd future maintenance and have a few spare windows. cant wait to see how yours turns out.

[Tango]

Not that familiar with Coroseal but nearly all rust treatments require a coat of paint to get their benefit (like Ospho, for example). The only one I know of that doesn't is a product called "Restore" by Quest Chemical. It contains a polymer that forms a really tough final finish and does not require painting. Good stuff. I have used it for years on my artwork.

[cadillackid]

everything ive read about rust converters is that if you dont paint things are going to rust easier than they did before...

I suppose it depends on whether its a converter or an encapsulator.. some products convert the rust and others encapsulate it so it cant continue to form...

at this stage of hte game it seems like it would be easy enough to paint it just for peace of mind..
-Christopher

[Adventure Bus]

I'd be tempted to go ahead with an elasticized paint, just like they do on the top to prevent any small leaks you may not have noticed from splashing up from underneath. Could be overkill... But that's my favorite kind of kill

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[ChiliChzPoopTart]

Hey tango what about por15?

[Stu & Filo. T]

Originally Posted by ChiliChzPoopTart

Hey tango what about por15?

POR 15 needs to be top coated or it turns grey from UV rays, plus you need to do the whole process, use their cleaner degreaser/ metal prep. I love the stuff.

[dalez]

I'd still suggest removing the windows unless you REALLY want that schoolie look.... those windows are drafty and leaky. Water gets inside the walls and trapped there and rusts. I only didnt do mine because my current bus I only planned to get a few short years out of. My next bus, they come out and the inside of the walls rust converted and painted and sealed.