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Old 04-03-2013, 10:16 PM   #41
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Re: First Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by somewhereinusa
Gas heaters have a safety valve. If the fire goes out it shuts off the gas. Cook tops don't have that, they assume you won't be sleeping while you are cooking. Not only in it deadly to breathe, it will explode if it fills the surrounding area and something produces a spark. You also have an exposed open flame.
You've also got carbon monoxide to consider. I would be OK with heating with a cooktop burner, but only when I'm awake.
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:20 PM   #42
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Re: First Post

Thank you for bringing that to our attention. I was wondering when someone would say that.
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Old 04-05-2013, 10:11 AM   #43
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Re: First Post

Froze my ass off last night. That stock floor really holds in the heat.

I am going to treat, paint, and seal the rear bedroom area first.
This will give me some place to stay during the remainder of the
renovation.

living space after being torn out.


The old floor.

During the process I found some bus treasure. I found an aluminum penny, 2 quarters, 3 dimes, a chuckey cheese token.
Also I found a new old band aid still in the wrapper, and some used old band aids.

Has anyone ever had leaky windows? The water seems to puddle on the lower window , but I don't know if this is the point of entry for the water. I suspect it leaks in on the sides. Any Ideas? I am about to start filling the voids with caulk.
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Old 04-05-2013, 10:54 AM   #44
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Re: First Post

I have been fighting water leaks during prolonged rain, mine puddles up on the lower ledge and leaks in thru bottom and sides

The windows have like 1/2in foam which has hardened,I said screw taking windows out and used silicone to seal the lower sill and up the sides about and inch,I still have 2 small leaks I have found since we got a couple inches of rain in the last couple days it's a never ending battle
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Old 04-05-2013, 12:36 PM   #45
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Re: First Post

When you say sill do you mean under the window frame? Inside or the outside of the bus?

I'm contemplating removing the windows and resealing them.

I thought I had small leaks until I pulled up the floor. I found at least a gallon in the right rear corner.

This has been a real tragedy.
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Old 04-05-2013, 02:09 PM   #46
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Re: First Post

[quote="yawnzzz..."]During the process I found some bus treasure. I found an aluminum penny, 2 quarters, 3 dimes, a chuckey cheese token.
Also I found a new old band aid still in the wrapper, and some used old band aids.quote]

I think these "bus treasure's" are a part of every build...I found all sorts of stuff and also came to the conclusion that 10 year old buble gum sticks better to the bus than Liquid Nails
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Old 04-05-2013, 02:36 PM   #47
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Re: First Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by browncrown
Quote:
Originally Posted by yawnzzz...
During the process I found some bus treasure. I found an aluminum penny, 2 quarters, 3 dimes, a chuckey cheese token.
Also I found a new old band aid still in the wrapper, and some used old band aids.quote]

I think these "bus treasure's" are a part of every build...I found all sorts of stuff and also came to the conclusion that 10 year old buble gum sticks better to the bus than Liquid Nails
Was going to say, all I found was bubble gum and mice droppings in the heater tube..
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Old 04-05-2013, 03:25 PM   #48
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Re: First Post

Those mice are a real pests. I have been at war with them for almost a week.
I got 2 mice 2 days in a row then nothing. I have trapped 1 mouse each day thereafter.
I have killed 7 thus far. I believe there will be more to come.
I have had the best luck near the brake pedal.

I have painted phosphoric acid in the rear half of the bus to counter act the rust.
Hopefully I can paint tomorrow.
Then I can start the project again up front.
Now I'm starting to tackle the leaking windows while the floor dries.

Will post some pics tonight.
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Old 04-05-2013, 11:04 PM   #49
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Re: First Post

Here are the products I will be using on the floor.


Here is what it looked like before the phosphoric.

And here it is after the treatment.
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Old 04-06-2013, 01:13 PM   #50
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Re: First Post

Just for reference --- the tannic acid based converters work substantially better than the phosphoric. There is one called "Restore" by Quest Chemical that I ran tests on for over five years in my business and could not get the treated metal to oxidize no matter what I threw at it. One advantage of this particular brand is that it forms its' own clear acrylic top coat when dry that is a good final finish. The others are only rated as primers and must be protected with some kind of paint over them in order to get the full benefits.

I mention this because I've seen a lot of folks work their a$$es off wire brushing the rust off their floors, then use the phos to treat it without painting over it before putting down their flooring. Not a good idea. Moisture will quickly penetrate the phos layer (just like any other primer) and you are back in the oxidation business in no time at all. Floors are especially demanding because they trap moisture and cannot breathe it out. Rubber flooring applied directly to metal (like in buses) is one of the worst possible combinations as many of you have no doubt noticed by now. Even galvanized metal can completely rust away in just a few years under those conditions. Even putting down a "moisture barrier" does little good because the water vapor that will form on the metal through condensation still has no place to go.
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