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Old 09-28-2011, 04:30 PM   #11
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Roswell, NM
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Year: 1986
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Re: First Timer, 1983 GMC Conversion

Originally Posted by syke
... On the other hand you do have an HVAC system. You listed the rooftop AC, the old furnace which covers the H part and if you open a window you will have the V part covered. And it's on a thermostat to boot. Excellent. You have it covered just fine...
HVAC Systems are generally ducted systems in which the Heating, Ventilation and Air conditioning all uses the same ductwork system for delivery of the air. I used to be a K&B Designer. Part of my training was to study and understand the use and planning of a residential/commercial HVAC system. Rarely is a stand alone furnace, stand alone non-ducted air conditioner and an open window considered to be an HVAC system. The only reason our furnace is ducted is because we built the plenum and ducts for it. I also do not consider a cassette toilet to be a human waste system, although I guess you could call it that. But so is an out house.

sorry if this comes across as bitchy. I manged to hit my head, not once but twice today on the rear emergency door. I have to take two M&M's and watch TV in bed! Ouch!
This post is my opinion. It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.
Fulltime since 2006
The goal of life is living in agreement with nature. Zeno (335BC-264BC)
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Old 09-29-2011, 12:04 AM   #12
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Year: 1984
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Re: First Timer, 1983 GMC Conversion

That ol' H-Vac. I remember, years ago, when I applied for a job and they asked about my experience with HVAC, and I said yes, I know how to work on high voltage AC (not!). Didn't get that job.

Anyway, about HVAC, just run a Heat Pump Mini-Split off an inverter. When you figure that out, let me know.
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Old 11-03-2011, 04:42 PM   #13
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Re: First Timer, 1983 GMC Conversion

Originally Posted by woke_up_new
**Is a marine battery enough to start the bus? From what I've read in the Boatowners Mech manual it seems like they're not really designed for turning over a motor necessarily.
"Cranking" batteries have lots of thin lead plates inside. They are designed to dump a lot of amperage in a hurry, but to only drain a small percentage of their overall capacity. I.e., you run them down 5% cranking an engine, and then they get immediately recharged. They'll do that for thousands of cycles.

"Deep Cycle" batteries have fewer, but thicker, lead plates. They are designed to dump a lesser amperage over a longer time. I.e., you run them down to 50% slowly, and then recharge them. They'll do that for thousands of cycles.

Either can be used for cranking, but when using deep cycle batteries for cranking, you sometimes need an extra battery to achieve the necessary "cranking amps", because those batteries have a bit lower cranking amps rating due to the thicker lead plates.

While you can use a deep cycle battery for cranking - you can't go the other way. I.e., cranking batteries should never be used for deep cycling. Draining a cranking battery much below 5% will reduce the number of cycles of its useful lifespan. Take it down by 50% instead of 5%, and you may only get a couple of hundred cycles out of it rather than a couple of thousand before it has reached the end of its useful life. Run it completely dead and you may only get a dozen cycles before it becomes useless.

"RV/Marine" batteries are a compromise between the two - fewer, thicker lead plates than a cranking battery, but not as few or as thick as a deep cycle. They'll do a little better at cranking than a deep cycle - though not as well as a true cranking battery; And they'll last more cycles than a cranking battery when heavily drained - though they won't do it for as many cycles as a deep cycle.

All the battery types do indeed have CA (cranking amps), CCA (cold cranking amps), RC (reserve capacity) and AH (amp*hours) ratings - but not all the numbers will be listed in the specs. For a cranking type battery, the manufacturer will generally refer to the CA, CCA and RC numbers, while for a deep cycle type battery, the manufacturer will generally refer to the AH numbers.
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Old 11-05-2011, 07:23 PM   #14
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Re: First Timer, 1983 GMC Conversion

=dwh= is right about battery design. That does not mean that any particular battery might or might not start your particular engine.
But I would check all your wiring connections. Take them apart, clean them, and put them back together properly tight. Add anti-corrosion paste or vaseline if you are so inclined. I have seen people who though they needed new batteries when all they needed was to replace a wire . . .

The 2-year old battery in my work truck started it fine, but if l so much as left the key on while pumping gas to record the odometer reading, it would need a jump to get started. After cleaning up the battery terminals, it is 300% better. Even an ohm or two of extra resistance in the wiring not only prevents full draw on starting, it also prevents the battery from getting fully charged . . .
Someone said "Making good decisions comes from experience, experience comes from bad decisions." I say there are three kinds of people: those who learn from their mistakes, those who learn from the mistakes of others, and those who never learn.
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