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Old 05-24-2011, 12:24 PM   #51
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Re: Fran (Sinclair) skoolie

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Originally Posted by Seeria
Big annoyance today grr Cannot get the bolts on the alternator to loosen so guess I've no choice but to take it into the local International shop that seems to think it will take 2 to 3 hours to do the alternator at $100 an hour.
I had the same problem with my alternator bottom bolt. I would encourage you to keep at it a little longer before giving up. I was eventually able to get mine out. I think I used a combination of WD-40, hammering, then hammering with a pin once the bolt was flush with the flange, and mabe even simultaneously hammering and prying at the bolt head with a crowbar once I had some clearance. Once it comes half way out you might try hammering the back of the head with a cold chisel if you can no longer use the pin from behind.

I definitely had to walk away from the job and return later with a clear head.

When I reassembled everything, I greased the hell out of that bolt lemme tell ya!
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Old 05-24-2011, 03:34 PM   #52
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Re: Fran (Sinclair) skoolie

Oh yeah the bolts were bad. Took her in and for $100 more than what the alternator would cost to buy and install ourselves, they put it in AFTER he worked off the bolts. He had trouble lol He replaced the bolts with used, greased ones.
He also showed us what was wrong with the heat guage (coolant temp) and what to do to replace it ourselves (no fee charged for instruction and testing YaY).
So far she's working great, starts strong and keeps on going. 150amp alternator seems to have fixed a lot problems.

MidState autoshop in Plover WI did the work. Great bunch of guys.
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Old 05-24-2011, 04:24 PM   #53
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Re: Fran (Sinclair) skoolie

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel Dan
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seeria
Big annoyance today grr Cannot get the bolts on the alternator to loosen so guess I've no choice but to take it into the local International shop that seems to think it will take 2 to 3 hours to do the alternator at $100 an hour.
I had the same problem with my alternator bottom bolt. I would encourage you to keep at it a little longer before giving up. I was eventually able to get mine out. I think I used a combination of WD-40, hammering, then hammering with a pin once the bolt was flush with the flange, and mabe even simultaneously hammering and prying at the bolt head with a crowbar once I had some clearance. Once it comes half way out you might try hammering the back of the head with a cold chisel if you can no longer use the pin from behind.

I definitely had to walk away from the job and return later with a clear head.

When I reassembled everything, I greased the hell out of that bolt lemme tell ya!

It wasn't just that bottom bolt, although the mechanic said it was a pain lol He mentioned heating that mount to get it to come out easier.

I couldn't get that far myself, the nuts were rusted, and the threads fouled. So far I don't have many tools (Had enough to get by on a smaller engine). After picking up what tools I could for this, the nut wanted to round off rather than break free. That was after cleaning and oiling it as best I could, with two of us working on a bar extension for extra leverage.

So.. Rather than rounding it off, and then needing even more work to get it off, we decided to take it in on this one. Added benefits is that included testing it to be sure that was the problem. (I'm still learning how to use a multimeter). Plus as Seeria said, he showed me where the problem was on the coolant temperature gauge (was the sending unit) , and explained what I need to do to replace it myself.
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Old 05-24-2011, 07:33 PM   #54
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Re: Fran (Sinclair) skoolie

If I could make some suggestions. Get some of this (or similar product) http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Anti-S.../dp/B0006Q7H2W and use it, especially where dissimilar metals (steel bolt into or through aluminum) are concerned. That grease you put on probably won't be there in a couple of years, but the anti-seize will be. Those of you with gas engines, use it on spark plugs, they will always come out again, even in aluminum. Also get a torque wrench and use it when you put EVERYTHING together. (spark plugs VERY important) If your manual doesn't list torque values there is an excellent one here http://www.raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html I doesn't matter that it says motorcycle. It also has a good explanation about dry and oily threads.

If you are going to use Locktite thread sealer, make sure there is NO anti-seize on the threads, it won't work.
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Old 05-24-2011, 09:15 PM   #55
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Re: Fran (Sinclair) skoolie

My father used to have a graphite locktite specifically made for... well .. Locks lol. Would fix pretty much any old stubborn keyhole, and quite a few rusty bolts. I had forgotten about it completely. It's amazing, the little 2-3oz bottle he had went through the entirety of my childhood, and I forgot all about it when working on this rofl.
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Old 05-27-2011, 09:25 AM   #56
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Re: Fran (Sinclair) skoolie

Moving along with the inside. Getting last of the clothing-bed shelves up today, hopefully. These were made with wood frames and shelved with wire racks. Nice and light weight and airy, which I like since condensation build up has always been a pain in the ass in our other camping vehicles. Also designed it so the lower half is open, giving room for feet or extra blankets. Beds are 33"x7' and so far are down right comfortable.
Got pole rack up.
Flooring put in but will remove it eventually as I hate vinyl.
Seatbelts done, giving us seating for 4 plus driver is 5.
Some paneling put up but ran out so waiting on budget to allow more.
Bathroom shelves in, though will probably add one more behind the throne.
Still need doors on all the shelving and storage units EEP
Temporary, ugly curtains are up so the freaky neighbors will stop coming by to look inside. That's just damn weird.
Finished off the cook top which is in the pic.
Yes... I will get more pics in! After I paint all the shelving and what not.

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Old 05-27-2011, 09:31 AM   #57
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Re: Fran (Sinclair) skoolie

I'm not having much luck with the ISIS dvd for info on water separator. Think Dain said this model isn't supposed to have one, however, this box thing is one, right? Label reads:

CAUTION: this water separator must not be pressurized over 15 psi or glass may shatter.


So question is-- Is this the diesel fuel water sep? How do I open the bugger to drain the water? I do need to drain it when full right? It's full when...???
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Old 05-27-2011, 12:50 PM   #58
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Re: Fran (Sinclair) skoolie

That is the fuel filter. Lift the top tab and it comes out. Needs replacing for sure.

[edit] Whoa, it says its a separator? Never seen one like that. I have changed many fuel filters like that. You should remove it and there is a rubber grommet on the other side that goes over a nipple.
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Old 05-27-2011, 03:16 PM   #59
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Re: Fran (Sinclair) skoolie

There is a long cylindrical (Spin-on is what Isis calls it) fuel filter on the other side of the engine. According to Isis all fuel components should be over there, and a separator isn't listed, so I would guess this was either an optional, or aftermarket attachment *shrug*.

So we should be able to drain/replace it by just lifting the tab and removing it? What kind of spillage will I see when I remove this type, do I need to release the pressure on the fuel system before removing it?
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Old 05-27-2011, 03:55 PM   #60
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Re: Fran (Sinclair) skoolie

No, you lift the tab and it comes out. Just replace the plastic/glass part you take out.
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