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Old 01-12-2019, 12:11 PM   #11
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Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 185
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Vista 3600
Engine: DT466E / AT545
Rated Cap: 72
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I am having trouble finding a drop in gauge for the transmission temperature. Closest I found was the round ones like this.



I do believe I have the sensor already installed on the 545 - I have backup sounds so that output is used, neutral output is used, and I have a spare two prong wire connector coming out of the drivers side of the tranny. I'm assuming this is the temp?
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Old 01-12-2019, 12:48 PM   #12
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
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Year: 1991
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Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Does your speedometer work? There’s a two prong sensor near the tail shaft for that.
The temp sensor is usually in the pan on the side not used by the dipstick.
The gauge for that panel can be ordered from circuit board medics. It will fit into the cluster in one of the outboard left slots. I think it’s upper left. The 2 pin harness may already be bundled up above in the harness of the trans.
Christopher
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Old 01-12-2019, 01:36 PM   #13
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Location: Rock Hill, SC
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Year: 1997
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Chassis: Vista 3600
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Speedo does work, as do the rest of them - seemingly accurate from what I've been able to measure/estimate. I've seen a few mention circuit board medics, but IIRC that requires you to send the entire panel in just to have them drop a gauge in. I'm assuming from the location of the requested gauge (Trans Temp) it has it's own connectors separate from the main PCB that runs the main cluster, which means I'd still essentially have to wire the gauge anyways.

If they wire it into the main cluster PCB and assuming it's already getting data for the trans temp, just without having a gauge to display it on, that'd be the perfect option though.

On the other hand, I'm digging CadillacKids (Sorry, didn't realize it was you) glass cockpit, and wanting to implement something like that into my bus. However, just like with aircraft, you always want a nice set of analog gauges for "just in case" moments and trans temp is certainly something I'd like to know in one of those moments.

EDIT: Okay, well, CBM is right down the road from me! I may just drop in (if possible) and ask them about the cluster. Hopefully they take personal deliveries, I can save on time and delivery costs!
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Old 01-12-2019, 01:50 PM   #14
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Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
I got circuit board medics to send me a gauge when I ruined the air gauge in mine from freezing it. These earlier electronic engines didn’t use a datalink for all their gauges. I think that started on 97 for most of them? The trans gauge never was on the data bus. It has 2 wires going into the connector for and the gauge itself plugs into the PCB on the cluster. Navistar in many cases prewired options but not on all so only way to know is to see if there’s a 2 pin wire unused in the harness around the trans, otherwise you can use an aftermarket trans temp or install the wires for one. I’ll have to see if my wiring diagrams go back far enough.
Christopher
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Old 01-12-2019, 04:56 PM   #15
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Chassis: Vista 3600
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Just got finished removing the rails on the inside as well as the pneumatic bar and stop sign. Rails were quite easy, only had to angle grind seven screws. The weight of this minor stuff seems to add up quickly. Carrying all the rails, I'd say it's around 50-60 pounds.

The front bumper bar came off pretty easy, although every single one of the four bolts that held it on snapped. Luckily they were bolted through, and the other end just pushed right out.

As far as the side stop sign, oy vey. That was soooooooooo difficult to get off, and while I understand the system is no longer operable I wasn't able to crimp the end of the air line before it popped back into the side of the bus, so now there's an open line in the wall panels.

Being said, I cranked it up and got the PSI to 90. Going back out to check it in a few hours, as long as it doesn't move I think I should be good. I was able to crimp the lower bumper bar line.

All this in the rain. Fun times.
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Old 01-12-2019, 09:59 PM   #16
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The air lines for the stop arm and stop sign will go to the accessory part of the tank and through a protector valve. Best way is to disconnect them at the source and be done. My carpenter stop sign line was tight and through an electromagnetic vale so it didn’t cause issues.. until a wire got against something in the switch panel and activated that solenoid letting out lots of air fast. Yeah it’s properly disconnnected from the air system now..
christopher
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Old 01-16-2019, 03:19 PM   #17
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Cleaning The Floor & Wheel Wells

Got the rest of the seats out, and the center rubber strip. I've decided to leave the left and right rubber floor, I pulled up some areas and there was very little if any rust. The majority of the rust can be seen on the center floor that's exposed, which again is minor.

In the video I'm prepping the floor for painting and getting ready to lay down the actual floor. My plan is as follows:

Coat rubber and exposed metal with Rustoleum
Lay down 1/8" strip in the center to make level floor
Lay down 1/4" foam insulation boards
Lay down 1/2" plywood
Lay down one piece vinyl floor with a hopefully awesome pattern

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Old 01-16-2019, 09:10 PM   #18
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Sealing The Floor

Painted the floor after cleaning it and sealing the holes with patch tape. Used Rustoleum Enamel, Safety Red. Figured I had enough yellow, and black/grey may lead to me missing spots on the black rubber floor.

A single gallon that quoted 300 square feet made the perfect size with little left over, just enough to spare. Used a 3/4" roller, so the layer is quite thick and should hold up to decent amounts of exposure.

On top of this will go a foam insulation layer, then 1/2" plywood, then most likely a single sheet of vinyl.

Not sure if you can tell from the few photos I took, but this was very much a P.O.D. situation. I am in a time crunch, and need to make a few trips at the very least by April 23rd of this year, so I am taking a few shortcuts with precautions.
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Old 01-17-2019, 01:07 AM   #19
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The red floor sure does give you contrast!
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Old 01-17-2019, 07:30 PM   #20
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Chassis: Vista 3600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Native View Post
The red floor sure does give you contrast!
It does indeed. Like the rear door was the elevator from The Shining.

I'm trying to keep a good budget for this, so for things that aren't going to be visible or have leeway in what products/materials I can use, I always go to the local lowes and H.D. to see if they have anything on sale.

The only matching product for the paint in either was a discounted Rustoleum Safety Red Enamel. One of the cans people spray paint on to test colors or to be a knob.

For the last few days I've been searching for the flooring materials and prepping. Got enough unfaced 0.5" foam + sound barrier for just under $5 each, regular price $9.88. Here's what I'm using for insulation - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Georgia-Pac...ier/1000318607

Getting some 3/4" or 5/8" plywood to lay on top of that, then likely waiting to do the actual top layer flooring (vinyl most likely) until I get the rest of the interior wired and major work done to the frame. Don't want to scratch up the nice floor
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