Gilligan Phantom (1987 Gillig Phantom School Bus Full Time Conversion)

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Juicifer

This makes me wonder. What am I going to use to seal the holes I'll be making in the roof for my solar racks? There must be something that works with this product...off to figure that out.

By the way on that topic I've ordered 35 feet of aluminum residential solar racks made by Iron Ridge. This will eventually hold 6 panels, and maybe 10 feet of deck on the back. Total cost is $400, plus whatever the bolts to install it to every cross beam that holds up the bus roof cost.

If anybody wants to do something some day, hit me up for a parts list.

Is it common to use solar racks to mount them to the bus? Seems like a no-brainer for me, because I like simplicity.

3M SEAM SEALER. The RIGHT way to fix leaky roof joints.

[Juicifer]

I took apart the bus's original wiring harness/run to remove obsolete lines, and put it in a thinner piece of conduit that would fit with my furring strips. I made a little video about it kind of just to remind myself how it all works, and also we've been gradually documenting our baby as she grows up so we have these videos to look back on so there's a couple clips from a trip to the beach in there too...kind of a multi-faceted project. Don't click on the link if you can't handle hearing "copyright free" music made for millennials if you catch my drift.

Video on running the actual electrical lines soon, and tomorrow I pick up and install solar racks made by Iron Ridge!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6hEqR3rov8

[Juicifer]

Here's my AC and DC rough-in video. Let me know if you think I messed anything up.

Installing the solar racks went swimmingly, and my bolt holes are leak free. The best part is that the guys at the solar distributor were pretty into my project, and gave me 11 270 watt panels that were somehow headed to the dump, for free. I'm feeling super lucky about that!

Does anybody know if you can leave panels disconnected, in the sun and sometimes partial shade for say 6 months? If not, I guess they're going in my jam-packed shed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTrXzG9DizM

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by Juicifer

and gave me 11 270 watt panels that were somehow headed to the dump, for free.

Those are probably old panels that got updated. Who wants 270W a panel when they are up to 350 new? Well, a whole bunch of people around here ...

The base I work on is putting in solar on two separate fields. I need to go by some afternoon and talk to the guys just to see what, how, and why they are doing whatever it is they are doing.

Does anybody know if you can leave panels disconnected, in the sun and sometimes partial shade for say 6 months? If not, I guess they're going in my jam-packed shed.

I wanna say no harm but I've no clue. At the very least turn the top one on the stack upside down. Or lean them as vertical as you can against the shed. They won't do much of nothing that way.

[Juicifer]

Okay solar panels are in the shed for now. We made a more or less final floor plan (it hasn't changed for a couple weeks at least) and so we made a video about it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rVkFmyf2LHI

[synestine]

Originally Posted by Juicifer

Does anybody know if you can leave panels disconnected, in the sun and sometimes partial shade for say 6 months? If not, I guess they're going in my jam-packed shed.

I wouldn't leave them exposed, as that means they're hot wires and they're slowly eating into their life cycle with no benefit to you. In fact when you hook them up, cover them with cardboard or a tarp so you don't zap something.

Hopefully you've got some vertical space. They should stack pretty well.

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by Juicifer

Okay solar panels are in the shed for now. We made a more or less final floor plan (it hasn't changed for a couple weeks at least) and so we made a video about it.

Questions:
1) Are you going to build out your floor plan with cardboard first? I'm thinking a trip to Costco or some such for boxes and building mine like that just to make sure that the 22" between here and there is enough. Or do I need to make it 28" so it's not so tight?

2) Completely sold on your tank setup? 84 gallons of fresh and 100 gray??? Usually the larger is the fresh and the smaller the waste, no? There's room in the middle for another 42 gallon. Just saying.

[Juicifer]

Originally Posted by Brewerbob

Questions:
1) Are you going to build out your floor plan with cardboard first? I'm thinking a trip to Costco or some such for boxes and building mine like that just to make sure that the 22" between here and there is enough. Or do I need to make it 28" so it's not so tight?

2) Completely sold on your tank setup? 84 gallons of fresh and 100 gray??? Usually the larger is the fresh and the smaller the waste, no? There's room in the middle for another 42 gallon. Just saying.

We might play with some boxes at some point. I was under the impression usually you have a little more gray so that you don't overflow. Also, I'll have a 7 or an 11 gallon water heater, and that'll hold another bit, right? No, I'm not sold on the water setup. I think I want a lot more water. I went with these because they were like $120 each free shipping. Can I block that engine access panel without much consequence?

Currently considering a portable solution for more water like a 40 gallon flexible water bladder in the undercarriage storage.

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by Juicifer

We might play with some boxes at some point. I was under the impression usually you have a little more gray so that you don't overflow.

Beats me, I've never had an RV before. Just doesn't make any sense to me. Is all of your fresh going into the gray tank? No, you'll drink some and cook with some. Depending on what you are using for a toilet, some will go in the black tank. But since you haven't mentioned a black tank, I'm guessing compost. Personally I'd go the other way with the tanks (more fresh than gray). If the gray is truly gray (no sewage) then if it fills then dump it down someone's septic tank.

Also, I'll have a 7 or an 11 gallon water heater, and that'll hold another bit, right?

+10% > 0%

No, I'm not sold on the water setup. I think I want a lot more water. I went with these because they were like $120 each free shipping. Can I block that engine access panel without much consequence?

Yes and no. You need that access to rebuild the engine/replace the turbo. But if you're doing all of that, are you keeping the bus? And if you do, is removing the tank really that much more effort?

Get someone else to chime in on what is done thru that access. I don't believe it's anything "normal" like an oil change.

Currently considering a portable solution for more water like a 40 gallon flexible water bladder in the undercarriage storage.

Have you been under your bus? Hard to tell from the avatar but that doesn't look like a short bus. Mine is 40' Blue Bird. Under it, I have at least 20' that is completely empty between the frame rails. It wouldn't be heated so cold climates might be an issue (if they're full). If you have a driveshaft in the way, that might cause a problem too. I don't.

[Juicifer]

Here's our video showing installation of Solar Racks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBj8lDdwys4&t=429s

Now I have a big question I need some help with from those with some bus building experience.

I want to schedule spray foam and I need some help making sure I'm ready.

Assuming that:

1. All leaks are handled (I actually have to do a little work on this, this weekend, but otherwise yes)
2. All furring is done
3. All electrical lines that will be in walls and ceiling are run
4. Backup cameras installed (doing this weekend)
5. Roof penetrations are complete (for our current plans this is true, but I can see the possibility of adding a wood stove or something else some day, we'll just have to deal with it)
6. Original lights are staying as is

Can I schedule spray foam?

There are a few wall penetrations I haven't made yet. Do you think I should do these before spray foaming the walls?

1. Plumbing inlet
2. Electrical inlet
3. Possible battery box vent

I'm probably missing some things, so help me out if you can.

[Ninjakitty]

Are you needing to vent your fridge?

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by Juicifer

Assuming that:

1. All leaks are handled (I actually have to do a little work on this, this weekend, but otherwise yes)
2. All furring is done
3. All electrical lines that will be in walls and ceiling are run
4. Backup cameras installed (doing this weekend)
5. Roof penetrations are complete (for our current plans this is true, but I can see the possibility of adding a wood stove or something else some day, we'll just have to deal with it)
6. Original lights are staying as is

Can I schedule spray foam?

I'd say yes from other vids I've seen. Goes without saying... Mask everything that is not getting sprayed inclding access panels (fuel pump, engine cover, etc.). Any new holes/vents/etc. can be cut thru both metal and insulation later.

[Juicifer]

Thanks guys. Fridge will not need to be vented. Do need to install solar combiner box as well. Anybody else got an opinion?

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by Juicifer

Thanks guys. Fridge will not need to be vented. Do need to install solar combiner box as well. Anybody else got an opinion?

House fridge doesn't have a vent because interior walls (often) and a 2 1/2 - 3+ ton AC system. You don't. Why not vent the fridge? To each their own but that looks like an oversight as you're already in a warm humid climate.

[joeblack5]

If you are planning on running the Ac a lot on solar then you better vent your fridge. It is a shame to have to cool the waste heat of your fridge with your Ac.
Of course visa versa in a cold climate.
Later j

[Juicifer]

Okay thanks guys. I'll read up some more on the DC fridge I plan to install and give that some serious consideration.

[Juicifer]

I routed my electrical lines out of the way of cutting a future fridge vent should I chose to do that per some of your advice.

Here's my next youtube video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FV9tSDXNzcQ&t=71s

In this video I installed a backup camera, fixed some furring details, and sealed the outside upper lights.

[Juicifer]

I got my bus spray foamed by a commercial company a couple days ago. The price was $1,450 which was similar to my material costs for a product like foam it green. I was really hoping for a super professional spray job. I was certain that a guy who did this for a living would be able to do a much cleaner job than I would. The owner of the company did the spraying and it was a huge, huge mess. I'll let the photos speak for themselves. In the photos I've already started trimming the left side through the middle of the bus, but the right side and upper quarter are untouched. Maybe this outcome is pretty normal, but I'm a little bummed about the huge trimming job I have ahead of me. Also, my conduit and wiring got bumped out significantly. I didn't see that coming and wish I did. What do you think? Extra messy? Alternatively I welcome anybody who wants to tell me to stop complaining and just get the work done.

[Ninjakitty]

We can compare it to mine when I install spray foam in the next week or so

[KC5AGO]

Sayeth the miffed Captain of the Gilligan, "I was certain that a guy who did this for a living would be able to do a much cleaner job than I would".

Personally (IMHO of course), I think you gave that ace too much wine before he started spraying. I'm certainly no expert, but I've seen purdier jobs on other YT vids. That clean up is a mess and I feel your frustration, hopefully every nook and cranny was precisely filled. Maybe ace believed in over-kill? Moving right along... Press On and Godspeed brother!