Good News Bus Conversion Project

[Bus Project]

Today I installed the 50 Amp plug and did a few other things.



More on the blog!

[baadpuppy]

I like that 50A power hookup. Is that a spring loaded cap on it? Where did you source it?

Thanks,
jim

[Bus Project]

Originally Posted by baadpuppy

I like that 50A power hookup. Is that a spring loaded cap on it? Where did you source it?

Thanks,
jim

The cap is not spring loaded. It is a Marinco 50 Amp Easy Lock RV / Marine Shore Power Inlet. Very nice and heavy duty! They can be found online for about $60 - $80.

[Bus Project]

Ok...I now have the Inverter set into place. The first test was a success.



More of the install on the blog.

[Bus Project]

Today I was able to get the battery combiner and transfer switch installed:





More details and pics on the blog.

[dennis]

Originally Posted by Bus Project

Ok...I see what you are talking about. I made the holes big enough to fit Great Stuff Gap filler around them. This should provide sufficent protection for the wires. These are car audio cable and have a tuff outer skin on them.

Ummm.... ......NO.

Sorry, but I'm an aircraft mechanic. Foaming insulation won't do the job. When the bus moves, so will those cables. The rubbing action will wear thru the foam insulation almost immediately and start rubbing against the metal of the hole. The sharp metal edge of that hole will chew thru the "tuff outer skin" of the cable before you know anything is wrong and cause a massive short. Someone could even get hurt if all the amperage in those batteries shunts to the bus frame and someone is touching metal.

Go to a hardware store and get some appropriately sized gaskets. Using a couple of loop clamps (aka "adel clamps") to support those cables right next to the holes will help as well. Personally, I'd at least double the diameter of those holes as well - or just make it one big hole.

It's only a couple of bucks worth of hardware and a few minutes worth of work. Don't try to cut a corner here. It'll come back to bite you...

[ramairws601]

I would agree with the above as well, expanda-foam aint gonna cut it. conduit is best, easily done and cheap. at the very minimum you need thick rubber grommets but I have seen those wear thru as well if your cables arent supported well on both sides. I am going to use pvc conduit for mine. I hate to see someone cut a corner and their hard work and money go up in a ball of flames on the road somewhere.
Not to mention that would be one more case why the insurance companies wont insure conversions. They never mention the success stories but a fireball on the highway will grab some headlines..........

[Bus Project]

hahahahaha...yes a fire ball would not be good accept for those watching.

I will have these main feed wires fused so that should eliminate the fireball scenario. I do like the PVC idea and will probably go that rout. Thanks for the input.

[BUSBOZO]

BP, I was wondering what the purpose of the "combiner" is for. I'm using a lot of your idea's for my conversion because I really like the way you are doing it.

I was planning on just running a positive cable from the starting batteries to a battery cut off switch and from the switch to the house batteries. So when you are dry camping the switch would be off not allowing the starting batteries to drain.

Then when you are in transit, you can turn the switch on and the alternator will charge the starting batteries and house batteries. AND, when you are hooked to shore power you can also have the switch on and the inverter will charge the house and starting batteries.

Also, I pretty much have your electrical system figured out. But I was wondering what the transfer switch is for that you mounted? I know the inverter has a built in one.

Dan

[Sojakai]

I was thinking of a small piece of PVC that is just long enough to fit through the floor and put PVC Caps on both sides to prevent it from sliding. Drill a hole just big enough for the cable to fit through in the cap without letting bugs/moisture/air through. Maybe add some of those PVC Nuts to hold the pipe piece in place if you ever need to change the wire.

[Bus Project]

Dan,
Here is some details on the battery combiner:

The ME-SBC is an innovative two-bank battery combiner. It is designed to monitor and charge a second battery bank using a portion of the current that is charging a main battery.
This 25 Amp combiner/isolator integrates an optional solenoid drive (I have this), remote voltage sense for more accurate sensing, High and Low battery cut-out to prevent over/undercharging, and automatic 12 or 24 Volt operation.
Connection to the oversized terminals is easy and simple. The basic design makes connecting the SBC as simple as it can get. Like other 3 wire voltage followers, this is a very simple device to connect and setup. The universal controls and connections make this a perfect replacement product.
The remote sense line can be used to monitor the battery voltage of a battery far away or at a charging source. Also, this is used to help minimize unnecessary cycling between combining and isolating, which can lead to early solenoid failure.

The transfer switch:

This transfer switch has two inputs: 50 AMP Generator Source and 50 AMP Shore Power (via the exterior 50 AMP plug). The transfer switch output goes to the breaker box for all NON-Inverted items like. A/C, Fridge, Electric water heater (If using electric), the Inverter Input and so on.

So when the transfer switch senses a power source it switches to that source and sends power to the breaker box.

When the the inverter senses the power coming in from the breaker box it will then switch to pull power from that electrical power source rather then the batteries.

The inverter has 2 - 20 AMP outputs for all inverted items. Mainly outlets.


So the switch in your inverter has a different function then the transfer switch has.

I hope this makes it understandable. It has taken me some time to understand how all this works.

[bunedoggle]

Firstly let me say, AWESOME conversion. Love the way it's going. I'm drawing much inspiration.

Just an idea, I built some switch boxes that were in the middle of extension cords and I used these type of strain relief connectors:
http://www.foxelectricsupply.com/conten ... CAR5133430

I didn't buy them online, I got them at Lowes. That's what I intend to use when passing through metal floors or walls. Should be pretty water tight, resist chaffing and relieves the strain.

[BUSBOZO]

Sounds good BP. Makes sense. I noticed you have 1 Air Conditioning unit. I've been going back and forth trying to decide whether or not to get one or two units.

Does your 1 unit cool the bus enough?

Dan

[Bus Project]

The one A/C unit seems like it will be ok. It kept the bus cool as long as the doors were kept closed.

[Bus Project]

The family and I are getting ready to spend our first night in the bus. We cleaned it all up today and so it was ready.

I also did a few more things today. Will post pics on the blog soon.

[BUSBOZO]

Nice! Have fun!

[Bus Project]

The night spent in the bus was fun! We all enjoyed it.

Added more lighting:



Worked on the table:



More pics and info on the blog.

[Seeria]

Glad the family had fun!
Curious, how come all these bus conversions have no drapes or window coverings?

[dennis]

BP, I hate to sound negative about all of the very high quality work you're doing - but this is NOT good!

The first thing I did was foam the holes around the wires coming up through the floor.

That foam WILL wear away quickly! It will NOT prevent those power cables from rubbing against the sharp metallic edge of that hole. You need to install a grommet in that hole. It's so cheap it's dumb not to do it.

You can get any of these at http://cableorganizer.com/grommets/


A clamp like this mounted close to the hole to hold the cable still will help too. Don't string the cable tight. Leave a bit of slack to allow for flexing of the bus structure.


Please don't risk all of your hard work. Take care of this...

[Bus Project]

Already working on it. Thanks!