Great White Buffalo - 92 BB All American RE

[syke]

Got a few things done this past week.

couch framed up.

Passenger seat base going in. Swivel, tilt, slide, everything except air ride. I might be redoing this design to incorporate air ride.

[syke]

Added some backing

[somewhereinusa]

Really looking good

[kshamrock12]

Bus looks great! I really like the metal framework inside as opposed to wood. I don't feel like wood belongs in a vehicle like that, but obviously it's a little easier to work with for some people. I can't wait to see it all done. The exterior also looks very nice!

[syke]

Thanks guys.
So far I am really happy with the progress and how the metal studs are working out. Getting the windows in was a big turning point for the wife and I.
The wife has been itching to get the window coverings started.

More pictures to come as I finish framing up the kitchen and desk/bunk area.

[yankeflyer]

I always wondered if the steel in the seats would have been enogh to do the framing. Anyway what a great job your doing. Definitly a how to - thanks for the pics.

[100MPG]

Originally Posted by syke

Thanks guys.
So far I am really happy with the progress and how the metal studs are working out. Getting the windows in was a big turning point for the wife and I.
The wife has been itching to get the window coverings started.

More pictures to come as I finish framing up the kitchen and desk/bunk area.

Do you know how much lighter the metal studs are compared to wood? Has anyone used the metal studs and had some time tested info? I am wondering about the flexing of the studs when they have the weight of the walls and other items while driving down the highway.

When (or if) I find the bus I am looking for I hope to be living full time within a few years of finishing the transformation...I have not figured out to financially do that yet, but that is the goal. Plan A is the lottery. I don't have a plan B.

I would be traveling to all the places I wanted to see in the US and Canada and would be doing quite a few miles. I know the "Sticks and staple" RV's do NOT hold up well. I had the use of a 30' Gulfstream on 3 trips across country and before I took the third trip, I had to rebuild the front over head bunk due to ROT! When I took it apart, it was so flimsy, I could not believe it did not just cave in (before the rot!) while driving at 70+mph in the western states. 1"x1" aluminum square tube as the frame, the width and height of the flat part of the RV with only the window as support in the center! STYROFOAM (yes, regular flaky Styrofoam) as insulation and pretty much nothing else. A solid RV is an illusion. There is nothing solid about them. The couch fell apart, with very little use. My 75Yo mom and Her husband had used it since 18,000 miles so it was not abused while they had it. Doors didn't close so well, things needed constant repair and just basically rattled it's way down the highway. The empty weight of the RV was already over the registered weight before anything was added!

I guess you all know this, which is why you went with a Skoolie!

So, I want to avoid the squeeky creeky syndrome. The shell of the SB is already sturdy but add a couple of thousand pounds of stuff to the inside walls and floor...will the metal studs still outlast wood?

[syke]

100mpg,

Let me start by saying.... I don't know!
I can almost guarantee the metal studs would be lighter than wood but by how much..... Not sure. To be honest the weight reduction was not a factor for me. (Although it's a welcome benefit) It was all about ease of installation.
Currently the studs do flex a whole bunch, but after the whole bus is sheeted I don't foresee any further movement.

It is crazy how the empty weight is right at gvw on a S&S rv. Our bus has about an 18,000 pound gap between the empty weight and registered weight. I like my 10 mpg so I really don't plan on using up all 18k pounds.

I plan to keep this build thread up to date so if anything changes for better or worse I will be sure to mention it.

[100MPG]

Originally Posted by syke

100mpg,

Let me start by saying.... I don't know!
I can almost guarantee the metal studs would be lighter than wood but by how much..... Not sure. To be honest the weight reduction was not a factor for me. (Although it's a welcome benefit) It was all about ease of installation.
Currently the studs do flex a whole bunch, but after the whole bus is sheeted I don't foresee any further movement.

I am sure they are lighter also...I had a carpenter friend that mentioned they were lighter and most commercial building were using it, at least 7-8 years ago. I dont even remember what he said the difference was.

It is crazy how the empty weight is right at gvw on a S&S rv. Our bus has about an 18,000 pound gap between the empty weight and registered weight. I like my 10 mpg so I really don't plan on using up all 18k pounds.

Yeah, I am an MPG nut and drove on of those trips cross country at 52MPH, both ways just to get 7-9mpg...That was rough. Really, 52MPH for 11,000 miles. Not even 55. I would NOT do that again.

I plan to keep this build thread up to date so if anything changes for better or worse I will be sure to mention it.

[/quote]
And I plan on reading it. Trying to get all the info I can even before I pick a bus out. I know it will cost me some MPG by wanting the longest bus I can find but it is worth it to me.

I am planning (or thinking since it is not on paper) on using the 8 to10' in front of the engine (RE of course) for a garage. I am thinking a door right in front of the engine compartment could be used to put in a lift of as yet undetermined style, to lift my very large motorcycle up and into the "Garage". Yep, it is going to be a challenge, but if I get it to work, it will be my rolling Castle. Oh boy, cannot wait for my first trip.

[GreyEagle]

100MPG

If you get a bus with the handicap Lift and big doors it might work for your garage ....... just thinking out loud

[kshamrock12]

I've used metal studs in construction a few times.. they are definitely lighter, but it also doesn't take very much to bend one. They get their real strength from a drywall board, or some kind of backing attached to them. They're basically in a U shape so it doesn't take much to bend the edges on either side.

[100MPG]

Originally Posted by GreyEagle

100MPG

If you get a bus with the handicap Lift and big doors it might work for your garage ....... just thinking out loud

The problem with the large buses with the lift is they are in the middle of the bus. I wanted to put the "garage" at the very back of the bus. In a short bus they are in the rear (side).

[100MPG]

Originally Posted by kshamrock12

I've used metal studs in construction a few times.. they are definitely lighter, but it also doesn't take very much to bend one. They get their real strength from a drywall board, or some kind of backing attached to them. They're basically in a U shape so it doesn't take much to bend the edges on either side.

What is the standard "wall" material used in buses? Plywood? Paneling? Curtains? lol. I want to make the outer wall and roof dense to stop as much as logically possible) the noise. I want to make the inner walls sturdy but not heavy. I would like to insulate the garage to save some energy while driving and parked and to have that area breathable due to the engine and Bike.

[100MPG]

Originally Posted by GreyEagle

100MPG....... just thinking out loud

I forgot to tell you I HEARD THAT! That is so weird...

[browncrown]

Beautiful work on the windows and framing!

[syke]

Originally Posted by 100MPG

What is the standard "wall" material used in buses? Plywood? Paneling? Curtains? lol. I want to make the outer wall and roof dense to stop as much as logically possible) the noise. I want to make the inner walls sturdy but not heavy. I would like to insulate the garage to save some energy while driving and parked and to have that area breathable due to the engine and Bike.

I'm going to use a combination of OSB and Plywood. No drywall. My guess is it would crack to **** in no time.
kshamrock12 brought up a good point..... the studs are quite flimsy without backing/sheer. I am using 20 ga metal which is pretty standard in construction.
I fully intend to sheet over every single piece of metal framing. Most of it will be for strength but some will just be cosmetic.

[syke]

Originally Posted by Tesla

Gorgeous bus, and nice work!

Did you guys rivet between the rivets that you ground down? Just wondering as this is what we're planning on doing in some areas of our bus.

Looking forward to seeing more of your Bluebird.

Sara

Thank you.
Most of the rivets that we ground off were becuase they were in the way of the window skinning metal (between each eyebrow). The window skinning metal attachment acted like the rivet that was removed. I also plan to tack weld the bus material to the window skins between the eyebrows.

[100MPG]

Originally Posted by syke

I'm going to use a combination of OSB and Plywood. No drywall. My guess is it would crack to **** in no time.
kshamrock12 brought up a good point..... the studs are quite flimsy without backing/sheer. I am using 20 ga metal which is pretty standard in construction.
I fully intend to sheet over every single piece of metal framing. Most of it will be for strength but some will just be cosmetic.

20 gauge metal studs? where you will be using plywood, what will you use? 1/4 3/8? Less? Do they have 1/8 or is that called paneling...?
When I repaired the front of a 30' GulfStream I bought one sheet of fiberglass. Very very thin, maybe 1/16 but it was light and strong. If there was a beer way to secure it to metal studs it would be the best material for the inside walls. But screws won't work, it would just split.

[syke]

Originally Posted by 100MPG

20 gauge metal studs? where you will be using plywood, what will you use? 1/4 3/8? Less? Do they have 1/8 or is that called paneling...?
When I repaired the front of a 30' GulfStream I bought one sheet of fiberglass. Very very thin, maybe 1/16 but it was light and strong. If there was a beer way to secure it to metal studs it would be the best material for the inside walls. But screws won't work, it would just split.

Yes 20 ga studs/track. I have not decided 100% on what/where/how in regards to the plywood but I'm thinking 1/4 will be the thinnest I will use and most likely 3/4 on the important structural items like the rear bed and the couch. For the bathroom walls and closet I might do 1/4 on both sides.
I really have not thought it out to much yet. Too many other things to think about and research.... remember I'm not a framer or carpenter; I'm just making half this **** up as I go.
FYI, the studs are not 2x4, I am using 2-1/4 x 1-1/2 for the framing and 1-5/8 x 1-1/2 for the wall cabinet framing which has not started yet.

[100MPG]

Originally Posted by syke

Yes 20 ga studs/track. I have not decided 100% on what/where/how in regards to the plywood but I'm thinking 1/4 will be the thinnest I will use and most likely 3/4 on the important structural items like the rear bed and the couch. For the bathroom walls and closet I might do 1/4 on both sides.

Do they make a diagonal or brace to put between the metal studs for strength? That would really stiffen them up and allow a thinner covering material for the inside walls. And I mean inner walls, not the inside of the outer wall. I would use something thicker for the sound deadening properties.

I really have not thought it out to much yet. Too many other things to think about and research.... remember I'm not a framer or carpenter; I'm just making half this **** up as I go.

Gotcha. I was a carpenter and mess around from time to time but given enough time, I could do anything.

FYI, the studs are not 2x4, I am using 2-1/4 x 1-1/2 for the framing and 1-5/8 x 1-1/2 for the wall cabinet framing which has not started yet.

I will be happy to have a bus to sit in and stare at the walls. I can start the planing in my head, it is easier for me to picture it and see how it fits together then looking at a piece of paper.