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Old 03-28-2016, 06:18 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
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hardware for ceiling ribs

Hello!

I am thinking about hanging a hammock in the bus for guests. I read here that the best place to anchor things in the ceiling are the ribs where the rivets are. What sort of hardware would I use?

Thanks!

Badger

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Old 03-28-2016, 08:21 PM   #2
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i wouldn't use and existing vertical facing hole. It wouldn't support much weight. but if you drilled into the horisontal (side) of a rib, bolted an eye bolt into it, you could hook a hammock to that with little concern for weight, unless you hang a punching bag from it.....
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Old 03-28-2016, 08:36 PM   #3
Mini-Skoolie
 
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I don't have access to the sides as I don't have the inner skin off. I don't possess the skills, tools, or knowledge to take off all those rivets and properly reattach the skin.
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Old 03-29-2016, 01:58 AM   #4
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Thumbs up Let's make some hammock brackets!

Hey Badger,

As an example, I built a quad folding bunk bed that hangs off the ribs and the chair rail. It supports four full size adults simultaneously. We're talking probably 1500 lbs if you count the framework, mattresses, and people.

The ribs are really strong.

I have a recipe for you to follow. What you will do is install at least two rivnuts in the bus rib, on either side. Then, a piece of flat bar with the end bent out will be bolted to the rib. A hole drilled through the end of the flat bar will support a carabiner, then you'll attach the hammock to that.


Get this particular rivet set from harborfreight, because it's inexpensive and seems to last particularly well:

3-in-1 Riveter Kit

Order this bag of rivnuts from amazon. You want the 1/4-20 rivnuts.

uxcell 100Pcs Zinc Plated Carbon Steel Rivet Nut Rivnut Insert Nutsert 1/4-20: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

You'll need a 25/64" drill bit for the rivnut. (sorta special)

Robot Check

A 1/4" drill bit for making a pilot holes and mounting your bolt holes.

Robot Check



2x carabiners for hanging the hammock.

Robot Check

Step bits to drill the carabiner holes.

Robot Check

Tool wax to keep your drills sharp.

Robot Check

Stuff from the hardware store:

Some 1/4-20 bolts. Try to get grade 5 or better fasteners.

Some lock washers and washers for the bolts.

A piece of flat bar, cold or hot rolled, doesn't matter. Dimensions should be 1/8" thick by minimum 1" wide. Personally I'd go 1.5" wide.


With a hack saw and a fresh blade, cut your flat bar into two lengths, 12 " long. Sparingly use some of that tool wax on your blade, you'll be amazed how well it works. (try just wiping a finger tip of it on the middle of the blade)

Each time you drill a hole in steel, dab a little swab of drill wax onto the tip of the drill bit. Your bits will last a lot longer and you'll save money.

All holes drilled should be in the center length of the bar. Don't go on one edge.

Using the pointiest step bit, drill one hole on the end of each bar, about 1.5" from one end. Drill it just big enough so you can clip the caribener onto the end of the bar.

Using your 1/4" drill, you'll want to drill three holes for your nutserts. At the opposite end of your carabiner hole, mark a point about 1 inch inward from the bar end, and another at 3, and another at 5 inches.

Do the same for the other flat bar.

Take each piece of flat bar and bend a little past the middle, probably about 30 degrees or so. You can bend it on the edge of the sidewalk or a rock, or a 2x4 or something. Just press the corner of whatever you're bending on against the bar.

What you want to end up with a small radius, so your three pilot holes still lay flat on the bar, and the carabiner hole has enough clearance to hang free when the thing is bolted to the wall.

Find the rib on the bus (look for the rivets) and make sure you're not drilling where there's a wire running up the rib for the running lights on the outside.

Lay bar against the skin (and where the rib lies beneath) and use a sharpie pen to mark through your pilot holes.

Now, use your 1/4" drill to drill three pilot holes you just marked.

Do this for both brackets.

Now drill out your pilot holes to 25/64" with the bigger drill bit.

Before you go mounting your nutserts, I'd suggest practicing first. Using a piece of extra bar stock, drill a pilot and a full size hole, and attempt to insert the nutsert and set it.

Go watch this video, then come back. I'll wait right here.



Ok, now that you can do the rivnut install, go ahead and set the three rivnuts on each side of the hanging points. You'll have a strong handshake afterwards.

I'd suggest painting your brackets because they will rust eventually, and if you're feeling up to it, try rounding the sharp corners with a file or even just a hack saw. Smooth is the way to go, because you're making furniture.

Finally, bolt the brackets with the caribiner hole hanging downward. Against the bar, lay the flat washer, then the lock washer, then the nut through it. Tighten into the rivnut hole. Don't over tighten, it should be snug and not feeling like you're going to rip it out of the wall.

Clip caribiners to brackets, and hammock to caribiners. I'd say this solution would be good for about 300 lbs or so.


Quote:
Originally Posted by LtBattleBadger View Post
I don't have access to the sides as I don't have the inner skin off. I don't possess the skills, tools, or knowledge to take off all those rivets and properly reattach the skin.
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Old 03-29-2016, 07:50 AM   #5
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Quote:
I don't have access to the sides as I don't have the inner skin off. I don't possess the skills, tools, or knowledge to take off all those rivets and properly reattach the skin.
All you would really have to do is drill a hole through the inner skin into a rib and use a S hook. The ribs are located where the vertical line of rivets is
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Old 03-29-2016, 08:00 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by somewhereinusa View Post
All you would really have to do is drill a hole through the inner skin into a rib and use a S hook. The ribs are located where the vertical line of rivets is
Yep. Break an egg or two.
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Old 03-29-2016, 09:04 AM   #7
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YES!

Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
Yep. Break an egg or two.
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Old 03-29-2016, 11:18 AM   #8
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@aaronsb: Nice explanation/instructable! thank youi for taking the time to put that together.

@LtBattleBadger, @TexasMom, @thePersonWithTheI'mDiscouragedThread: You have the bus, you can get or borrow the tools, you have YouTube, and you have us. The skills will come. Don't be afraid to break some eggs; you aren't going to break the bus. You most likely couldn't break the bus if that was your goal.

None of us here are gods; none of us here knew how to do <whatever it is> the first time we tried. After you get a few reps of "hey, that wasn't too difficult!" under your belt, it'll become 2nd nature.

Go for it!
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Old 07-21-2023, 06:34 PM   #9
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This worked

https://youtu.be/LfEgR-GgeaY?si=GwuxDXeHTfqXJ3u2
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Old 07-22-2023, 01:16 PM   #10
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I used Böllhoff 1/4" pre-bulbed PlusNuts to secure my kitchen's overhead cabinets into the roof ribs. PlusNuts are essentially a heavy-duty version of a jack nut, with a strong steel thread and four steel legs that splay out. I'm completely happy with how they turned out, and I wouldn't hesitate to use them again for heavy loads. The only problem I initially had was trying to use a jack nut type of squeeze-handle tool which could not compress the PlusNuts sufficiently, so I made my own tool using a stainless 1/4" connecting nut (much greater thread length than a regular nut) on a full-threaded Grade 5 hex bolt; the connecting nut pushes against two hardened steel washers that sandwich a small needle-bearing thrust bearing. The hex bolt is screwed into all the PlusNut's threads and prevented from turning with a wrench, than the connecting nut is turned against the face of the rib. It's very easy with this type of tool, and the PlusNuts are completely firmly in place so they cannot turn in the ribs.

John
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