HolyBus transformation - Page 2

lornaschinske · 03-06-2015, 08:14 AM

Kilz, paint nor primer, is not a waterproofer. The metal roof should hold up just fine to the water as long as the paint on it is in one piece (no scratches, etc) that would allow water to the metal.

And now you know why so many of us use shower bases with FRP sides.

For the ceiling in the shower of the Compass Rose, the single piece of FRP on the back wall was wrapped up the curve and onto the ceiling. David had to run some screws into the ceiling along the front edge to keep the FRP pushed back against the curve. They will be sealed and covered with PVC trim eventually.

HolyBus · 03-09-2015, 02:14 PM

With the shower vertical, I figure it was time to post a couple pics. The ceiling has two coats of paint on most of it.
I need to find another bluebird ceiling light. One was broken.

Above is front to back and below is back to front

somewhereinusa · 03-09-2015, 04:50 PM

Quote:

I need to find another bluebird ceiling light

I have a bunch, I took them all out. You need lens or whole light. Show picture if it's the same free, you pay shipping.

Dick

HolyBus · 03-09-2015, 04:56 PM

I just need the cover. It is an off translucent rectangle with slightly rounded corners and one screw hole at each end. It has a bluebird emblem in the middle with lines running longways. I will take a picture as soon as I can.
Thanks.
Weird thing is, I used to live in Indy, went to Ball State one semester; before a blizzard hit, we headed south. My wife's family was a big part of old Ft. Wayne so I know the area.
thanks again,

somewhereinusa · 03-09-2015, 05:13 PM

Looked at a few all have small cracks radiating out fro screw holes, this one only has one short one. Six inches center to center on the holes.

HolyBus · 03-09-2015, 08:52 PM

PM sent. thanks again!

HolyBus · 03-23-2015, 07:38 AM

I can't believe it has been so long since I last updated this thread. We have a third coat of paint on the ceiling thanks to my wife. She is currently asleep in the bus and it is her birthday. We bought 12 packs of foam anti-fatigue interlocking mats to cover the floor. They are 1/2" thick. Plans change. We were going to keep the strip down the center to keep the "bus look and feel". She is also rethinking the bus bench seat we converted to use as an "L" shaped couch in the front.
That's what I like about the bus. Nothing has to be permanent. Don't like it, don't want it, don't need it, no problem. I am flexible. Just call me Gumby.
I started drilling out one of the outer rub-rails. It is the higher one just below the windows. If there is no seam under it, I may just leave it off after fixing the rust and repainting.

HolyBus · 03-23-2015, 07:48 AM

I took the curved cover off that is above the front door. I wanted to see how much space there is for a door lock mechanism. Out fell two white plastic spray can lids!

On another note, I put a patch of Peel and Seal around a hole where a metal flex pipe goes thru the firewall. The hole was bigger than the pipe and i just wrapped a small piece around it and then cut a patch to cover the area and pipe. Now, the sound from the engine bay is almost as quiet as a car! I was shocked at the difference.

HolyBus · 03-31-2015, 07:41 AM

Some days are better than others. Yesterday was a loss. I tried diagnosing the coolant temp gauge and suddenly the fuel gauge is showing full! I took it out and it stayed on full. After manually turning it back to empty, I put it back in and when I turned the key on, it goes back to full. I must have created a short somewhere when I was working on the coolant temp gauge. Now I have two gauges out. Drat.
What stinks is that the cluster is wired too tight to pull out from the dash and still be connected. If it was one connection on the back, I would unplug it and get to see what is what. As is, I will be laying on my back looking up at the back of it. Double Drat.

nat_ster · 03-31-2015, 09:19 AM

That kind of crap is why I'm changing all my gauges I can to mechanical units.

Nat

HolyBus · 04-23-2015, 08:40 PM

Ordered two poly rectangular 40 gallon tanks and a 3gpm, 50psi shurflo pump. Hope they arrive soon! I plan to use tank strap and put rubber between tanks and strap as well as between tank and bus frame.

HolyBus · 04-23-2015, 08:43 PM

To the left of the steps as you enter, we built a shelf that is 30" high, and 30" wide. The hand rail will mount to the front of it. I'll get some more pics of the progress if I can remember my bucket login info.

porkchopsandwiches · 04-23-2015, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HolyBus

Some days are better than others. Yesterday was a loss. I tried diagnosing the coolant temp gauge and suddenly the fuel gauge is showing full! I took it out and it stayed on full. After manually turning it back to empty, I put it back in and when I turned the key on, it goes back to full. I must have created a short somewhere when I was working on the coolant temp gauge. Now I have two gauges out. Drat.
What stinks is that the cluster is wired too tight to pull out from the dash and still be connected. If it was one connection on the back, I would unplug it and get to see what is what. As is, I will be laying on my back looking up at the back of it. Double Drat.

The wiring behind my gauge cluster is a MESS. My fuel gauge is really intermittent but I think it is the sender. If you fill the tank from say, 1/4 tank to full, it will read 1/4 until you go over a big bump / pothole. Then it reads as normal until like 1/3 tank.

Quote:

Ordered two poly rectangular 40 gallon tanks and a 3gpm, 50psi shurflo pump. Hope they arrive soon! I plan to use tank strap and put rubber between tanks and strap as well as between tank and bus frame.

Make sure the mounting setup you use is strong enough! Remember 40 gallons of water is over 300 lbs. You go over a speed bump too fast and that becomes a lot more than 300 lbs for a second. I am currently working on a robust design for tank mounts, I am starting on building them this weekend.

Tango · 04-23-2015, 09:23 PM

Excellent advice & thinking. Same goes for any fluid tanks. The bump/pothole/hard braking inertia effect can multiply the force on tank restraints many times their static weight. Or as one old funny looking guy put it...

E=mc2

HolyBus · 04-24-2015, 06:52 AM

I plan to use the straps that are used to hold fuel tanks up. I also looked into mobile home hold down straps. That stuff is tuff.

HolyBus · 04-27-2015, 07:19 AM

Messed with the dash again. Got the dash lights going by cleaning all contacts and replacing two sockets. Will pick up a head light switch since the dash lights blink when I jiggle the switch. I may get lucky when I take it out. Maybe it just needs to be cleaned as well but not likely. It is a generic switch anyway.

HolyBus · 04-29-2015, 07:39 AM

The tanks arrived yesterday. Two 40 gallon poly - about 18"x12"x38". I have just over 18" between frame and side skirt. Stacked would bring them down 24" and I don't like that they would that near the ground so my plan is to mount them against the frame 12" wide so they are 18" down and that would just hide them behind the skirt which hangs 19" down. I think the distance between tanks and skirt can be filled with storage compartments and an access panel for drain lines, pump, etc. I like the idea of facing the ends with the connections to each other and have all connections in the area between.

Dragonpop · 04-29-2015, 07:57 AM

On the headlight switch, the portion of the switch that controls the dash lights is the
dimmer switch and rheostat on the front of the switch. It's not unusual for the parts
to get corroded as they are open and exposed to the elements. If you remove the switch from the dash you will find a ceramic disc embedded with a ni-chrome coil
( resistance wire) which is swept with a brush to vary the voltage for dimming the
dash lights when you turn the light switch knob. If the coil is intact and not broken
a light cleaning of the coil may be all that's needed. Most of the new switches
available come out of China and don't seem to have the service life of the old stuff.

HolyBus · 04-29-2015, 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HolyBus

I have just over 18" between frame and side skirt.

Correction: I have just over 28" between frame and skirt. Duh. So the tanks may lay side by side with padding and strap.

HolyBus · 04-29-2015, 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dragonpop

If the coil is intact and not broken
a light cleaning of the coil may be all that's needed. Most of the new switches
available come out of China and don't seem to have the service life of the old stuff.

Yeah, I know from restoring old (50s) cars that part about the reostat. I've seen the same thing in old fuel tank sending units too. I didn't know about the cheap quality knockoffs tho. Thanks for the headsup. I'll hope for the best when I take it out of the dash first chance I get.

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