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Old 04-23-2015, 09:40 PM   #31
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Florida
Posts: 584
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: I.H.
Engine: DT360
Ordered two poly rectangular 40 gallon tanks and a 3gpm, 50psi shurflo pump. Hope they arrive soon! I plan to use tank strap and put rubber between tanks and strap as well as between tank and bus frame.
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Old 04-23-2015, 09:43 PM   #32
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Florida
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Year: 1988
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: I.H.
Engine: DT360
To the left of the steps as you enter, we built a shelf that is 30" high, and 30" wide. The hand rail will mount to the front of it. I'll get some more pics of the progress if I can remember my bucket login info.
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Old 04-23-2015, 10:07 PM   #33
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Join Date: Jul 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HolyBus View Post
Some days are better than others. Yesterday was a loss. I tried diagnosing the coolant temp gauge and suddenly the fuel gauge is showing full! I took it out and it stayed on full. After manually turning it back to empty, I put it back in and when I turned the key on, it goes back to full. I must have created a short somewhere when I was working on the coolant temp gauge. Now I have two gauges out. Drat.
What stinks is that the cluster is wired too tight to pull out from the dash and still be connected. If it was one connection on the back, I would unplug it and get to see what is what. As is, I will be laying on my back looking up at the back of it. Double Drat.
The wiring behind my gauge cluster is a MESS. My fuel gauge is really intermittent but I think it is the sender. If you fill the tank from say, 1/4 tank to full, it will read 1/4 until you go over a big bump / pothole. Then it reads as normal until like 1/3 tank.

Quote:
Ordered two poly rectangular 40 gallon tanks and a 3gpm, 50psi shurflo pump. Hope they arrive soon! I plan to use tank strap and put rubber between tanks and strap as well as between tank and bus frame.
Make sure the mounting setup you use is strong enough! Remember 40 gallons of water is over 300 lbs. You go over a speed bump too fast and that becomes a lot more than 300 lbs for a second. I am currently working on a robust design for tank mounts, I am starting on building them this weekend.
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Old 04-23-2015, 10:23 PM   #34
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Location: Houston, Texas
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Year: 1946
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Excellent advice & thinking. Same goes for any fluid tanks. The bump/pothole/hard braking inertia effect can multiply the force on tank restraints many times their static weight. Or as one old funny looking guy put it...

E=mc2
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Old 04-24-2015, 07:52 AM   #35
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Florida
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Year: 1988
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Engine: DT360
I plan to use the straps that are used to hold fuel tanks up. I also looked into mobile home hold down straps. That stuff is tuff.
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Old 04-27-2015, 08:19 AM   #36
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Messed with the dash again. Got the dash lights going by cleaning all contacts and replacing two sockets. Will pick up a head light switch since the dash lights blink when I jiggle the switch. I may get lucky when I take it out. Maybe it just needs to be cleaned as well but not likely. It is a generic switch anyway.
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Old 04-29-2015, 08:39 AM   #37
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Join Date: Dec 2014
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The tanks arrived yesterday. Two 40 gallon poly - about 18"x12"x38". I have just over 18" between frame and side skirt. Stacked would bring them down 24" and I don't like that they would that near the ground so my plan is to mount them against the frame 12" wide so they are 18" down and that would just hide them behind the skirt which hangs 19" down. I think the distance between tanks and skirt can be filled with storage compartments and an access panel for drain lines, pump, etc. I like the idea of facing the ends with the connections to each other and have all connections in the area between.
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Old 04-29-2015, 08:57 AM   #38
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Join Date: Oct 2011
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On the headlight switch, the portion of the switch that controls the dash lights is the
dimmer switch and rheostat on the front of the switch. It's not unusual for the parts
to get corroded as they are open and exposed to the elements. If you remove the switch from the dash you will find a ceramic disc embedded with a ni-chrome coil
( resistance wire) which is swept with a brush to vary the voltage for dimming the
dash lights when you turn the light switch knob. If the coil is intact and not broken
a light cleaning of the coil may be all that's needed. Most of the new switches
available come out of China and don't seem to have the service life of the old stuff.
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Old 04-29-2015, 09:10 AM   #39
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HolyBus View Post
I have just over 18" between frame and side skirt.
Correction: I have just over 28" between frame and skirt. Duh. So the tanks may lay side by side with padding and strap.
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Old 04-29-2015, 09:14 AM   #40
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Florida
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Year: 1988
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: I.H.
Engine: DT360
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonpop View Post
If the coil is intact and not broken
a light cleaning of the coil may be all that's needed. Most of the new switches
available come out of China and don't seem to have the service life of the old stuff.
Yeah, I know from restoring old (50s) cars that part about the reostat. I've seen the same thing in old fuel tank sending units too. I didn't know about the cheap quality knockoffs tho. Thanks for the headsup. I'll hope for the best when I take it out of the dash first chance I get.
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