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Old 07-17-2007, 12:14 AM   #11
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 151
Year: 1950
Coachwork: don't know
Chassis: cheverolet
Engine: to be determined
Rated Cap: 28
Re: hopefully someone out there has an answer for me !!!!!!

I wish someone would give me some feed back. I don't want be labour the point, and share info that everyone already knows.
this is just my experience not trying to be a know it all thanks dale
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Old 08-27-2007, 05:11 PM   #12
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Location: Piedmont, NC
Posts: 87
Year: 1981
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: 345
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Re: hopefully someone out there has an answer for me !!!!!!

Dale,
I think this is good info you are posting. I just don't think many of us have had to dive into front end work, so we can't comment.

Coma
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Old 03-25-2009, 09:06 PM   #13
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Location: Carriere Miss.
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Year: 85
Coachwork: Ward
Chassis: G.M.C. 6000 series
Engine: 366 G.M.
Rated Cap: 60
Re: hopefully someone out there has an answer for me !!!!!!

King pin front ends are the simplist in the world. Go to a local library and look at a Motors Manuel on 49 to 55 chevy trucks. They pretty much stayed the same up to present 18 roller trucks. In fact they are easier to work on than it is to explain how to work on them. Bear skins and stone knives technology . Caster angle is set with shims between leaf springs and the I-beam, camber dosent have to be messed with unless the truck has been in some sort of a front end wreck, like a real hard ditch'n. I have always taken the entire axel out of the truck to press out the king pins. After the I-beam has been striped of everything but the axels and king pins. I have done this and and watched this done with hammers rose bud torchs drift pins and mucho cursing with a touch knuckel flesh. But I've always figured four u-bolts taken out with a deep socket on a good impact and the I-beam is in the 50 ton press in 45 mins. The hardest part for me was getting the rite size ream and reaming the i-beam bushing for clearance on the k-pins. I perfer taking the I- beam out over leaving it in the truck because of the lack of room to swing a hammer under a fender, that and I've got a 50 ton press. A good machine shop can rebush the axels and ream them to fit your king pins. Iv'e always done this myself, being born a poor child. Russell
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Old 03-30-2009, 11:01 PM   #14
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Location: vancouver island bc
Posts: 1,028
Year: 1965
Coachwork: thomas
Chassis: chevy
Engine: 350
Re: hopefully someone out there has an answer for me !!!!!!

wow there is alot of great info in this thread this thread should be in the "wrenches" forum as the experience says this is an area that you want to check when buying a bus.i know that one of my kingpins has some wear in it and one does not move.but the one that moves is on the passenger side so thats ok timbuk
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Old 03-31-2009, 12:09 PM   #15
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: downriver, detroit mi
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Re: hopefully someone out there has an answer for me !!!!!!

right side suspension parts usually mwear out at twice the rate of left side components due to the chuckhole factor. if you chane the kingpins make sure to have the bushings machined so that they are aligned with eachother.
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Old 03-31-2009, 01:50 PM   #16
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Re: hopefully someone out there has an answer for me !!!!!!

Right side king pins are on the worst side of the road. If I have a bad tire I will run it on the left rear, until I replace it of coarse. Russell
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