Jasmine

[AlleyCat67]

Ahhh Laredo, know it well. I spent most of my time on the yard there in my truck simply because it was too hot to stay out on the patio.

If you could get them for less than a grand then you were doing well indeed, my searches didn't turn up any deals like that. When I could find a used one it was 1500 or more. I could jerry rig something out of household A/C units and buy and install a generator for less than that.

It might be worth trying, sure, but asking it to cool a 25-35 foot long space is a lot when it's designed for no more than about 10 feet, with width and height being comparable to big rig cab size. But if it's insulated well enough during conversion it might fly. Strictly using the factory insulation, there's no way it would work... would be interested to know if someone takes this approach and how it works out.

[Motrukdriver]

Diesel generators are just so dang expensive. I like the idea of using the same fuel in the generator as what your rig runs on. Saw a lot of fellas use a cheap honda generator and a small house ac unit in the window. I think the hassle of carrying two different fuels would be.. well I wouldn't wanna do it. Most of the APU installations I saw were "leaky" at best when it came to routing cold or warm air into the sleeper. I'm sure it could be made far more efficient with a little care and attention. I think I'm gonna have to give this a try when its my turn at the design wheel.

[AlleyCat67]

Yea I can't argue with that, a good diesel generator carries a hefty price tag. I was thinking more along the lines of a hybrid generator, gas or propane since I'm gonna have to have propane anyway for cooking, grilling, water heater, etc. But if I can find a good deal on one of those APUs I would certainly consider that.

Care in installation can certainly make a unit more efficient by reducing the loss due to leakage.... cut the hole to the exact size needed and seal it well to the body panel to minimize heating/cooling loss (and keep outside moisture, bugs, etc from finding their way in).

[Motrukdriver]

Worst case is you could use the AC and heat to just keep your sleeping quarters warm or cold as your needs arise if your design keeps it closed off to the rest of your space. Just thinking here....

[AlleyCat67]

Yes that would certainly be doable. I'm sure somewhere in the literature is a specification for how much volume it is capable of cooling, with that number for reference it could easily be designed in.

For the power side, again I'm sure it specifies how large of a battery bank it is capable of maintaining. Given the intended use, probably not over 3 or 4 12v batteries, which should keep the 12v side of things running well.... since my AC side will probably end up being 24v I will have to figure something else out for that side.

I had another thought after I wrote my last response on this, that would address the cost factor..... maybe find one that the engine blew or something, that they're only asking maybe a couple hundred for, buy it and use it for parts, just hook everything up to a new engine and get it going that way. The only trick there is knowing how many HP the engine has to put out to run everything.... any chance you would know the answer to that?

[Motrukdriver]

Tripac units typically use a 7.5 hp either Kubota or Yanmar engine. If you were gonna use one I'd make sure you have plenty of access for that dipstick and oil fill port. I always had to use a funnel to top mine off after a few weeks of running and trying to not spill any oil was a magic trick in itself.

[AlleyCat67]

Good to know, engines in that range are fairly inexpensive for gas or propane.... the diesels will be a bit more of course. Will have to keep this in mind for use when the time comes to add those systems in.

[Motrukdriver]

I was looking at your proposed floor plan on your build site. I was wondering if you could do a wall mounted cover material bin up behind the compost toilet to save floor space. Might even be able to use something like a twist valve and flexible dryer duct to direct the material down into the toilet. Unhook the duct from the wall, point and turn.... just a thought. Nice bus btw. Gonna be a really nice build when you are done.

[cadillackid]

depends on the APU.. if it is driving a standard A/C compressor (older APU) then you have a shot at cooling a PARKED bus.. you ll never cool a moving bus.. if its one wit hthe electric compressor. good luck they are small sized units..
-Christopher

[Motrukdriver]

Something like this maybe modified to handle the cover material. This is an old fashioned flour sifter from a hoosier cabinet.

[Motrukdriver]

Or maybe something like this with a bigger bin on top. This is one of those cereal dispensers you find at cheap motels.

[dalez]

I have an APU on my bus. It's got a 3 banger Kubuta spinning ~2200-2400rpm, running a 4kW gen head at 3600rpm via a belt. The AC unit was a 12kbtu electric, but it's nonfunctional and not installed in my bus. I have a 5kbtu window unit permamounted in my rear sleeping compartment and it serves me very well in central oklahoma. I imagine with a metric crapton of insulation the 12kbtu could do the bus standing still.

Also the fuel consumption of the kubota is excellent, ~.10-.15gph at light loads ;)

[AlleyCat67]

Originally Posted by Motrukdriver

I was looking at your proposed floor plan on your build site. I was wondering if you could do a wall mounted cover material bin up behind the compost toilet to save floor space. Might even be able to use something like a twist valve and flexible dryer duct to direct the material down into the toilet. Unhook the duct from the wall, point and turn.... just a thought. Nice bus btw. Gonna be a really nice build when you are done.

Thanks, I just hope it comes out like I'm picturing it.... time will tell.

I had not thought about keeping cover material in an overhead bin and dropping it in via a hose or pipe..... that would certainly save some floor space if I can adequately control material flow from the hose. I'll see what I can come up with.

Chris: My plan, if I go with an APU, is to use the onboard A/C to cool the driver's compartment while underway if it will not suffice to cool the back sufficiently while parked or moving. Maybe divert the airflow to cool part of the back after I get parked. I'll have to work on the design.

Dalez: I have another a/c plan in mind if I need it.... got the idea from an album on here..... someone took a large thru-the-wall A/C unit, split it at the interior divider, installed the outside part under the bus with the inside part installed in a custom-built cabinet with grille outlet. Still a ways away from needing it so the plan may change again before the time comes to install it.

[PNW_Steve]

Regarding the Tripac's ability to cool a space that size:

Based on my own experience in a 40' well insulated bus over a number of years in the South West US, I would say that 12k Btu is plenty to cool a rig that size on a warm day. It's 83 outside and I want 73, no problem.

However, 12k Btu when it was 95 outside... No way!. Both of my 12k's would be working. 110 outside and I was battling to keep it under 80 inside.

That is in an Arctic White bus with 1.5"+ ov closed cell spray insulation. Thermal breaks between metal & finish materials. All bus windows removed, resided, insulated and new RV windows.

For keeping the bedroom cool at night in a hot climate or light duty cooling I think the APU idea definitely has merit but I would back it up with more cooling capacity in the form of a roof air or mini split etc.

On my new bus I am leaning hard towards mini splits and avoiding any place where it gets over 100F......

[DoubleO7]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

On my new bus I am leaning hard towards mini splits and avoiding any place where it gets over 100F......

I would look at getting an outdoor unit that is two-zone capable.
You do not have to have both zones installed.
Therefore you can install one zone now and add a second if needed.

[cadillackid]

With an RE bus you can keep the driver area sort of cool on a warm day driving into the sun with 12k btu.

On an FE or dognose good luck with that and prepare to sweat ESP if you are a DT466 with a doghouse .. a 444e with flat floor lets much less heat in...

12k insulated at night parked will keep you beautifully cold .. I have 65k in the dev and down the road it's still warm in the driver area in 95 degree summer sun. Redbyrd is like 45k better insulated and tinted windows and only 6 row with a flat floor and I'm ok cool in the driver seat but not cold. I'll be adding dashboard air come spring
Christopher

[Njsurf73]

Originally Posted by AlleyCat67

Chris: It's a 2005 so it is a lot newer than most of the conversions you see. Paying a bit more than I would like ($7500) but it's worth it to me.

I will be picking it up as soon as the money hits the bank (should be tomorrow) then I have to get up to Whitestown IN so it may be the first part of next week.

CarytownCat: Yes, all it took was a phone call to the company, told them what happened.... apparently the door was picked but for whatever reason never shipped. Mistakes happen, I get that.... the fact that they made it right so quickly means I'll probably order from them again... in fact I have a shopping cart ready to go with my city water inlet/tank fill, water pump, strainer, pressure regulator, accumulator tank and supply hose. With the sale they have going right now I'm getting all that for less than $200.

As some of us are starting builds soon, maybe you could share where you ordered from. Good service goes a long way with me.
Thanks for sharing. Reading all the threads I can to get ideas... Gonna steal all your good ones!
Mike

[BogistJoeSr]

I'm also planning 2buy a bus from Midwest, glAD i'M closeby, and taking in all the advise from this thread, so concerning this airco issue, since i'm just keeping front 8 ft of the cab area and making a flatbed with the rest, I'll have significantly less cubic ft to cool. Unfortunately however, MY DT466 and its doghouse issues will need addressed. It seems however that a insulated blanket, maybe one with +-3/8'' tubes with an airpump would separate cooled from heated sides of the doghouse pad/carpet. concerning my 400 cu ft area im betting an 8k/btu unit will suffice anywhere but death valley

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by BogistJoeSr

I'm also planning 2buy a bus from Midwest, glAD i'M closeby, and taking in all the advise from this thread, so concerning this airco issue, since i'm just keeping front 8 ft of the cab area and making a flatbed with the rest, I'll have significantly less cubic ft to cool. Unfortunately however, MY DT466 and its doghouse issues will need addressed. It seems however that a insulated blanket, maybe one with +-3/8'' tubes with an airpump would separate cooled from heated sides of the doghouse pad/carpet. concerning my 400 cu ft area im betting an 8k/btu unit will suffice anywhere but death valley

If you are going to use an air con unit to cool the doghouse itself why not just build out dash air for the road and then whatever type of unit you need for when you are camped.. the doghouse itself getting hot is only part of it, there's a lot of heat coming from the cracks , crevices, and the metal in the engine compartment firewall.. blowing cold air in the foot wells with my dash air is how I handle it..
Christopher

[BogistJoeSr]

Hopefully i can get me communication points up and get a pm from u Cadillac kid! I need to visit and see your bus if possible soon. Im from Cols Ohio but in IN & MI half my time.