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Old 09-20-2019, 06:29 PM   #81
Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Windham NH
Posts: 237
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
Okay so my EdgeStar washer/dryer combo finished a wash cycle and is now on the dry cycle. Performance numbers incoming.

Wash cycle took 50 minutes; consumed 410Wh. Max draw was around 550W.
Dry cycle is going now, may or may not complete, more on that later. Max draw I saw was the condenser firing up, around 1150W. The unit estimates 3:00 of runtime.

Interestingly, the unit doesn't run the condenser constantly. It seems to turn on/off throughout the cycle. I'm guessing this drying method is power efficient, just time consuming. I predict a minimum of 1.5-2kWh for a dry cycle, maybe 3kWh if the condenser cycles more frequently. In total I'm looking at a 3kWh-4kWh total cycle. Well within expectations at this point.

I sized my system for a 4000W draw from a 220V electric dryer (heating element) with an 8000W split phase inverter, which would be a 166A draw from my battery bank. This combo unit is quite kind- so far I've seen only 1150W max draw, or 47A from the battery bank. None of my electrical equipment is really stressed near any of its upper limits, and in full sun my desired panel setup will still be charging batteries while running a cycle.

So now to the bad news, and why the dryer cycle may not complete- I found the washer was leaking water onto the floor. Upon inspection, the water inlet valve has a rupture on its side. The previous owner claimed the unit "worked", and likely knew about this. They probably left the unit in their tiny house trailer over the winter and let the interior cabin freeze with the water on, which ruptured the valve.

I made an attempt at epoxying the rupture. We'll see if that holds or not... if not, I'll order another valve.
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Old 09-20-2019, 07:17 PM   #82
Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Windham NH
Posts: 237
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
It failed as I turned the water off. Total usage at the time was 1.1kWh.
acmon.jpeg


We'll see if it still leaks tomorrow...
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Old 09-21-2019, 03:19 PM   #83
Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Windham NH
Posts: 237
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
It still leaks. I've gotta get a replacement part... oh well.

I realized I hadn't posted some updated things here. We closed up the front over the driver. 12V DC subpanel and 120V outlets up front!
ima_d761fdc.jpg

I've started building out the bedroom area. Two TwinXLs will fold up into a little area under our clothing storage.
ima_44e547d.jpg

My layout has turned out to be very one-sided, unique, maybe a little concerning in terms of weight distribution....
ima_4ea8693.jpg


I'm starting to finish up the automation wiring, man is that tedious. TONS of little wires, probably the neatest job I've done, by necessity. About 1/5th of the way through it.
ima_b06806e.jpg


And I wanted to include a higher res image of my wood stove for good measure. This setup is so compact it is way better than I ever could have hoped for. Its also in the perfect spot (bedroom). Before I found this Dickinson I was looking at the cubic minis or even full-sized stoves to go under the window. Really, really awesome setup, and it goes with our overall stainless steel theme.
ima_88a5a28.jpg
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Old 09-22-2019, 11:14 AM   #84
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 5,266
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
I am curious as to how much water it used?
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Old 09-24-2019, 11:05 PM   #85
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 59
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 (3904 RE)
Engine: Cummins 8.3TA
Rated Cap: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by kazetsukai View Post
That, and I can watch the cameras from anywhere via the bus' computer system. I'm considering putting a camera underbody to watch for problems on the road.
Sounds like something I'm interested in. What camera system did you decide to use?
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Old 09-24-2019, 11:54 PM   #86
Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: the Missouri Ozarks
Posts: 230
Year: 1997
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: 466e
Rated Cap: its Yuge
Quote:
Originally Posted by kazetsukai View Post

I'm starting to finish up the automation wiring, man is that tedious. TONS of little wires, probably the neatest job I've done, by necessity. About 1/5th of the way through it.
Attachment 37730

Do have have physical switches along with those relays, I have been trying to figure out how to wire both
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Old 09-25-2019, 08:17 PM   #87
Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Windham NH
Posts: 237
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve View Post
I am curious as to how much water it used?
I don't know yet- I have to wait for a replacement water inlet valve. As soon as I know, you'll know. Best I can do is give you an estimate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by synestine View Post
Sounds like something I'm interested in. What camera system did you decide to use?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6KUKMY
Keep in mind, it was a liiittle bit of an impulse buy. It was on sale for $450 at the time. I can use VLC to stream the feeds on any device, I may run a long HDMI cable up to the driver's area for best latency. Image quality, both daylight and night vision have been excellent. I may replace some of the cameras with dome-style equivalents for aesthetic reasons, but I'm definitely adding cameras (engine compartment, undercarriage) when I get a chance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MambaJack View Post
Do have have physical switches along with those relays, I have been trying to figure out how to wire both
I use _momentary_ push buttons with lights. They only connect when actively pressed (They each have 5 leads- in, pressed, unpressed, and then 12V +/- for the button light). I've wired the light and the pressed lead for all 8-9 buttons back to the same panel as the lights. This way I press a button to toggle the lights on/off, but can also use a REST call to change the state without "ignoring" a stateful light switch.
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Old 09-25-2019, 09:16 PM   #88
Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Windham NH
Posts: 237
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
A couple button pics. They come in different colors.


ima_dffacf6.jpgima_fa00e58.jpgima_d9cece3.jpg


I got a little further with the wiring. Lights are all in (top left, started wiring them to relays). All that's left are the buttons at this point (top right), I currently have only the hot water / water pump controls and the water tank level sensors in.
ima_48184f1.jpg


Below the button wiring strip I'm wiring the buttons to a USB Joystick controller board.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCTT1JD
Screenshot_2019-09-25 Amazon com Quimat DIY Arcade Game Button and Joystick Controller Kit for R.png


Easier for me since each button would require an inline resistor if I just wired them into the Arduino MEGA.
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