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Old 09-20-2019, 06:29 PM   #81
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Okay so my EdgeStar washer/dryer combo finished a wash cycle and is now on the dry cycle. Performance numbers incoming.

Wash cycle took 50 minutes; consumed 410Wh. Max draw was around 550W.
Dry cycle is going now, may or may not complete, more on that later. Max draw I saw was the condenser firing up, around 1150W. The unit estimates 3:00 of runtime.

Interestingly, the unit doesn't run the condenser constantly. It seems to turn on/off throughout the cycle. I'm guessing this drying method is power efficient, just time consuming. I predict a minimum of 1.5-2kWh for a dry cycle, maybe 3kWh if the condenser cycles more frequently. In total I'm looking at a 3kWh-4kWh total cycle. Well within expectations at this point.

I sized my system for a 4000W draw from a 220V electric dryer (heating element) with an 8000W split phase inverter, which would be a 166A draw from my battery bank. This combo unit is quite kind- so far I've seen only 1150W max draw, or 47A from the battery bank. None of my electrical equipment is really stressed near any of its upper limits, and in full sun my desired panel setup will still be charging batteries while running a cycle.

So now to the bad news, and why the dryer cycle may not complete- I found the washer was leaking water onto the floor. Upon inspection, the water inlet valve has a rupture on its side. The previous owner claimed the unit "worked", and likely knew about this. They probably left the unit in their tiny house trailer over the winter and let the interior cabin freeze with the water on, which ruptured the valve.

I made an attempt at epoxying the rupture. We'll see if that holds or not... if not, I'll order another valve.

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Old 09-20-2019, 07:17 PM   #82
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It failed as I turned the water off. Total usage at the time was 1.1kWh.
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We'll see if it still leaks tomorrow...
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Old 09-21-2019, 03:19 PM   #83
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It still leaks. I've gotta get a replacement part... oh well.

I realized I hadn't posted some updated things here. We closed up the front over the driver. 12V DC subpanel and 120V outlets up front!
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I've started building out the bedroom area. Two TwinXLs will fold up into a little area under our clothing storage.
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My layout has turned out to be very one-sided, unique, maybe a little concerning in terms of weight distribution....
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I'm starting to finish up the automation wiring, man is that tedious. TONS of little wires, probably the neatest job I've done, by necessity. About 1/5th of the way through it.
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And I wanted to include a higher res image of my wood stove for good measure. This setup is so compact it is way better than I ever could have hoped for. Its also in the perfect spot (bedroom). Before I found this Dickinson I was looking at the cubic minis or even full-sized stoves to go under the window. Really, really awesome setup, and it goes with our overall stainless steel theme.
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Old 09-22-2019, 11:14 AM   #84
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I am curious as to how much water it used?
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Old 09-24-2019, 11:05 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by kazetsukai View Post
That, and I can watch the cameras from anywhere via the bus' computer system. I'm considering putting a camera underbody to watch for problems on the road.
Sounds like something I'm interested in. What camera system did you decide to use?
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Old 09-24-2019, 11:54 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kazetsukai View Post

I'm starting to finish up the automation wiring, man is that tedious. TONS of little wires, probably the neatest job I've done, by necessity. About 1/5th of the way through it.
Attachment 37730

Do have have physical switches along with those relays, I have been trying to figure out how to wire both
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Old 09-25-2019, 08:17 PM   #87
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I am curious as to how much water it used?
I don't know yet- I have to wait for a replacement water inlet valve. As soon as I know, you'll know. Best I can do is give you an estimate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by synestine View Post
Sounds like something I'm interested in. What camera system did you decide to use?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6KUKMY
Keep in mind, it was a liiittle bit of an impulse buy. It was on sale for $450 at the time. I can use VLC to stream the feeds on any device, I may run a long HDMI cable up to the driver's area for best latency. Image quality, both daylight and night vision have been excellent. I may replace some of the cameras with dome-style equivalents for aesthetic reasons, but I'm definitely adding cameras (engine compartment, undercarriage) when I get a chance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MambaJack View Post
Do have have physical switches along with those relays, I have been trying to figure out how to wire both
I use _momentary_ push buttons with lights. They only connect when actively pressed (They each have 5 leads- in, pressed, unpressed, and then 12V +/- for the button light). I've wired the light and the pressed lead for all 8-9 buttons back to the same panel as the lights. This way I press a button to toggle the lights on/off, but can also use a REST call to change the state without "ignoring" a stateful light switch.
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Old 09-25-2019, 09:16 PM   #88
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A couple button pics. They come in different colors.


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I got a little further with the wiring. Lights are all in (top left, started wiring them to relays). All that's left are the buttons at this point (top right), I currently have only the hot water / water pump controls and the water tank level sensors in.
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Below the button wiring strip I'm wiring the buttons to a USB Joystick controller board.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCTT1JD
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Easier for me since each button would require an inline resistor if I just wired them into the Arduino MEGA.
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Old 10-18-2019, 08:19 AM   #89
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So my automation stuff is well underway. I now have working light....buttons.
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So far its just the hallway and the bathroom:
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A shot of the relay controller going off:
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This is one of those moments, let me tell you. It seems so simple, pressing a button and the lights turning on. It makes me look back on the journey. Two years, to get here. Amazing. It works so well, has so much polish, because so much time was spent on it.





For the fellow geeks, a bit about the code driving this:


A Java microservice watches for Joystick activity, then kicks off an event for each. The event consumer currently watches for BUTTON_UP, or when the button is released. Then based on the source/name of the button event, looks up the corresponding zone, then asks the Arduino what the current zone state is like. It uses this state to select the next valid permutation of the zone. What's shown in the picture isn't on/off- its every valid permutation for each zone (the hallway lights are all one light in their one zone, as are the bathroom lights, but some zones have multiple, independently controllable lights).



For the more complex zones (office, bedroom), the current behavior would be the lights cycling through every possible permutation of the zone, because that is what I generated as configuration. Since in some zones I have as many as 4 lights (16 permutations) I need to trim down on each to just those that are useful- which are lights to one side or another, all on, all off, etc. The kitchen is a good example of zones working well- I have lights over the sink, near the door, and soon over the countertop. One button can control all three sets of lights by cycling through different combinations.


In addition to BUTTON_UP (released), I want to add events like LONG_PRESS, SHORT_PRESS, DOUBLE_PRESS, TRIPLE_PRESS that let me skip cycling through certain permutations to an immediately desired configuration.



In addition to the button control, I'm writing a REST service so that I can use a web app with an overhead-view of the bus to manually control each light directly.
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Old 10-18-2019, 12:05 PM   #90
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Is the Java service running on the PI3? Is it just running Raspbian OS? Very cool! I have the technical skill to do something similar, but I'm also a big fan of a KISS mentality. If you were starting over would you still go this route with light controls?
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Old 10-18-2019, 12:57 PM   #91
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Is the Java service running on the PI3? Is it just running Raspbian OS? Very cool! I have the technical skill to do something similar, but I'm also a big fan of a KISS mentality. If you were starting over would you still go this route with light controls?

I'm not using the Pi3, although I could. I used a 12V AMD system running Arch Linux:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D14J8D2


One of the things I didn't like about the Pi3, even running Arch (and using the GPIOs on it) was that it was crippling developing on it (not the fastest CPU on the block) and that my code wasn't portable. If the Pi or its SD card fails, I need to replace either and maintain regular backups of the latter and any code that uses Pi GPIOs has to be run on a Pi, it can't run on my beefy laptop.



My Arduino on the other hand, connects via USB, and contains no use-case-specific logic itself. It takes JSON over serial, sets pin modes (INPUT, OUTPUT), changes OUTPUT pins to the desired state, and reads the states of INPUT and OUTPUT pins for me, sending JSON back. That's it. Its mounted on a DIN rail with one of these:



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CU3OB5Y/



Going into a bit of a rant...




I also am a fan of KISS. This doesn't mean, however, that simple light switches would do what I want: they don't. There's also a degree here, its not all or nothing- some people would just program the Arduino, screw having another computer/moving part / point of failure/etc. It is a valid criticism of my approach to point out that I have the following points of failure:


The Light/appliance itself, the wire, the relay board, the arduino and the AMD system. The button isn't a point of failure by itself because I'm going to have multiple ways of controlling all the appliances (REST in addition to the button input).

So what are the consequences of failure?


If my Arduino fails, I flash another with the JSON control sketch (which is rock solid), and pop the new one into the DIN rail holder.

If my AMD system fails, I git clone the Java EE app on my GPD Win 2, laptop, or the Pi3, then switch the USB connections over to it. Since I develop on my laptop, it is the number one candidate.


If the relay board fails, I replace it. A little bit of a pain, admittedly. And then there's the failure considerations in my designs. I intentionally setup my ceiling lights so that the string going down the bus at the apex of the ceiling are all on one cable. That means I can flip a switch at the driver's console to force it on, even if it is/isn't getting power from the automation system.



If the automation system fails at any point I can change over the pump and heater to manual control, the inverter and everything downstream are unrelated and don't suffer from an automation failure, and neither do the DC sub-panels in the front and back. The router is hardwired in, the solar charge controller relies on a separate temperature relay (to prevent charging below freezing), etc.




The tangible downside is that I have well over 100 wires going into my electrical area and so order, and organization was a requirement. I was not about to endure the chaos I found in the buses' fuse panel area again. This meant careful mounting of equipment, routing and guiding wires appropriately, and organizational hardware. I think it turned out okay- I especially like how I handled negative for the lights / buttons.

But once the wiring made it to my panel, I can change my approach any number of ways. By running everything into screw terminals I can change my configuration to something dumber in a matter of minutes. In the mean time, while I don't suffer from failures I will reap the rewards of very smart, infinitely customizable behavior. I'd like my water pump to shut off automagically if my fresh water drops below a certain level. Hell, the next time a motion sensor goes off in the cabin, use text-to-speech to tell me the water is low. Once, please. Or email me. Or fire up a some instant message service I can reply to with actions to take. Who knows.


And I'm a Java developer. Yeah, I'll use Java EE to do web services. Some people like Python, some like Ruby. Some like C. Some like really freaking complicated, use-specific code on their Arduinos. Fine, good for them. Not me. Everything has to be as generic and configurable. Hell, you could probably check out my code and use it to run on your use case (well, you might want to wait until the end of the week for that, still some prototyping in there I intend to remove).


If you'd like to collaborate I'm all for it. Or just steal what I have. I have all the code on GitHub.
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Old 10-18-2019, 01:18 PM   #92
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Running via the Arduino makes a lot of sense. I have a lot of experience working with the PI and it's pinouts, and other than SD card failure I've always had good luck with them. Totally not against more complicated setups, just wondering if the value-add was there for you in the end, sounds like it is I've been debating specifically about a tablet app, with one mounted near the driver, and one in the back somewhere, and then physical buttons / switches to do all of my controls. Things like total water pump run time, emails about water levels, etc are all the reasons I've been thinking of doing something like you. Push notice to my phone about black water tank getting full would be pretty handy.
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Old 10-18-2019, 03:57 PM   #93
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im running a PI3 and a zbasic.net processor... I like the zbasic.net chips because they have built in A2D and D2A thats really easy to use.. as well as multiple 1wire interfaces, UARTs etc... I like the language since its almost like programming in Visual Basic dot net without the GUI pieces.. their CPU;s are ATMEL based...



I user the PI for the UI pieces... im running openHAB so i can have touchscreen interfaces for parts of it..



im definitrely on board with your approach.. Im not a big fan od the handlers for GPIO on the PI.. the embedded boards like arduino and a zillion others handle it much better... the PI havuing a full OS handles UI operations much better where touchscreens are desired vs physical switches.. my Network connectivity is maintained by a MikroTik RB951 which has a USB slot for the 4G LTE device and supports it natively..



I opted for touchscreen simply because im replacing the physical switch panels on my dash with touch control... they are ugly and I wanted remote control of the Webasto coolant heater and the interior bus heater blowers..



like Kaz i went through 100 iterations.. the beauty of his system is being mainly code based it can easily be changed and tailored as he uses it... a button press, a joystick move can all mean whatever you want it to in the future..
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Old 10-18-2019, 06:46 PM   #94
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These are super cool!!

I started down the path of just using a Rasbian. A pi 3, and a relay connected to and controlled by a web page on the pi. But couldn't figure out a good way to integrate the switches, so looking for different options. Possibly using mqqt and mosfets though I dont have experience with either.

Do you have any dimming capability with the lights?
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Old 10-18-2019, 07:04 PM   #95
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I've been debating specifically about a tablet app, with one mounted near the driver, and one in the back somewhere, and then physical buttons / switches to do all of my controls.
I've been looking specifically at the Dell ruggedized tablet. The idea being I could bring it outside with me and do things like control leveling jacks, look at the status of stuff from the engine compartment, etc. I even contemplated a way to remote start the engine (hydronic heat). It would also be nice to detect when the bus is in drive, then do things like change the color of the UI to red if one of the engine compartment doors were open at the same time, etc.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Neorush View Post
Push notice to my phone about black water tank getting full would be pretty handy.
I bought some tank fuel level sensors for my grey tanks I need to install. All I hear about the built in probes is that they get dirty and stop working.



My bus is also going to be home to my cats, and I want to be able to see how they're doing from afar- thus the security system that doubles as backup cameras.




Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
im running a PI3 and a zbasic.net processor... I like the zbasic.net chips because they have built in A2D and D2A thats really easy to use.. as well as multiple 1wire interfaces, UARTs etc... I like the language since its almost like programming in Visual Basic dot net without the GUI pieces.. their CPU;s are ATMEL based...


My current problem is I'd like to deploy the JSON control code to the Arduino from Java. I could call the arduino executable, there's gotta be a way to just do it via serial.


The joystick stuff is just to reliably detect two wires connecting- it really just make getting input stupid simple, since I'm willing to do stuff in a general computer and not just the micro controller. The real point is its all event driven architecture- REST calls, emails or chats, any kind of even can be used as a hint for the system to do some series of actions.


I do intend to make the stack fully configurable and somewhat user friendly. I had a demo where it would iterate through all the digital pins, cycling their state and asking the user if they saw a light flashing / relay toggling. If they answered yes, they'd be prompted to name the pin something. This would let somebody plug their stuff in, not caring which specific digital pins they go on, and use kind of a wizard to generate their configuration.




And of course developers can focus on the important stuff like writing code that governs the rules of their system- not the low level pin control. All a developer has to do is name all their pins and then talk to the REST service.



Quote:
Originally Posted by MambaJack View Post
I started down the path of just using a Rasbian. A pi 3, and a relay connected to and controlled by a web page on the pi. But couldn't figure out a good way to integrate the switches, so looking for different options.
Well, you see what I came up with. Momentary push buttons are really all that makes sense logically precisely because they are stateless. Maybe smarthome switches would work better, but I bet that stuff is all 110V and it is crazy expensive by comparison. (Plus my buttons light up!) The Joystick kit made reading event _really_ easy. My code is up on GitHub, the joystick stuff is solid you can copy or reimplement in whatever language you'd like.



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Do you have any dimming capability with the lights?
No, and yes. So no, I don't have any dimmers. Yes, I could add them at the panel. I'd need as many dimmers (or dimmers with sufficient number of channels) as individual groups of lights I'd like to dim. This is usually some kind of PWM controller. Then instead of running a wire directly from a fuse to its relay, I'd run it through the PWM controller and then a set of signal wires from the PWM controller to the Arduino. Ideally that's something like I2C.


Then I'd need some way to set the brightness from a human interface perspective. I have a 24" touch screen attached to my AMD rig, it would be easy enough to do something there. I could just use "dumb" wireless PWM controllers and hook them inline with the relays. Lot of that stuff on Amazon.



I currently achieve light control by having numerous groups of lights under "zones". If I don't need as much light, I turn off a number of them. I can see the utility of dimming individuals, but the need for that has yet to be determined.
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Old 10-19-2019, 07:21 AM   #96
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I think im not understanding.. i thought someone had made a REST API for the arduino a while back.. since everything even ethernet pn an arduino is serial you could just leverage a UART to your PI and do it via serial.


im using my PI to handle the connectivity to the outside world... micro controllers are much better at the mechanical <-> software relationship than a PI or any computer really.. even USB based relay and input boards are problematic since even the best PC or SBC Operating systems seem to need rebooted every so often.. Micro controllers arent very good at UI's but they definitely are nice for nuts N bolts..



I built controllers for my home HVAC system. that talk the mini-split language so I could integrate my highly modified mini splits into my zoned home HVAC.. (10 years ago ugly wall units were the only thing readily available and I have nice floor registers.. so thus the mods..)..


your build doesnt say what transmission you have.. im guessing. a 545 or 643.. if you are lucky and have a world transmission (MD3060).. then you can pick off the J1939 data from your engine.. (yes your 99 444E has J1939 data coms under the hood)..


otherwise unless you install a switch on your shifter you coulkd just look to make sure your Neutral safety switch is open and reverse lights are off.. that pretty much means you are in a forward drive gear.. .


im not going engine remote start just yet.. although remote starting the webasto coolant heater yes.. those heaters have their own built in thermostats, pumps, etc so you essentially just close a switch and it goes to town.



when I do eventually go remote start (for the A/C) I think im going to go along the lines of a commercially available remote starter for the Power stroke fords.. they handle the glow-plugs, RPM sensors, crank circuits, etc.. Auto high idle can be turned on in the later versions of the 444E ECM ( you can swap your 99 ECM for a 2004 and find your engine's cold weather manners improve greatly)..


-Christopher
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Old 10-19-2019, 11:55 AM   #97
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I've been looking specifically at the Dell ruggedized tablet.
Years ago I wrote software for the Northrup-Grumman shipyard in Pascagoula, MA. My boss there had a Toughbook laptop which was rated for a four-foot drop. He had a wee bit of a misunderstanding of what this meant exactly, and one day he was showing some people around on a ship being built there and decided to show off his Toughbook by raising it above his head and slamming it down into the steel deck as hard as he could. Turns out they're not that Tough.
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Old 10-19-2019, 11:58 AM   #98
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In addition to BUTTON_UP (released), I want to add events like LONG_PRESS, SHORT_PRESS, DOUBLE_PRESS, TRIPLE_PRESS that let me skip cycling through certain permutations to an immediately desired configuration.
Personal taste, but I've found that interfaces that rely on BUTTON_UP or TOUCH_UP messages or whatever feel sluggish and unresponsive, compared to BUTTON_DOWN which triggers as soon as your finger hits the surface (or the mouse).
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Old 10-19-2019, 03:01 PM   #99
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Personal taste, but I've found that interfaces that rely on BUTTON_UP or TOUCH_UP messages or whatever feel sluggish and unresponsive, compared to BUTTON_DOWN which triggers as soon as your finger hits the surface (or the mouse).

ive gone back and forth on button down vs button up.. in Javascriot if a button_down results in a browser refresh its possible for it to register another button down before the user releases.. seems inconsistent across platforms too.. (grrrr! what happened to portability).. well at least for browser-based apps.. if im simply polling a micro controller for an event.. or better yet something like the zbasic chip that generates interrupts on input from IO pins.. its very much preferred to trigger on a down.. for the very reason you suggest.. it seems faster.. your brain is still thinking about the button and releasing it and by that time the computer has already processed and executed the request...
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Old 10-19-2019, 06:24 PM   #100
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Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
Personal taste, but I've found that interfaces that rely on BUTTON_UP or TOUCH_UP messages or whatever feel sluggish and unresponsive, compared to BUTTON_DOWN which triggers as soon as your finger hits the surface (or the mouse).

So if I only wanted button presses to do things, this would be the way to go.I do feel a very minor delay in the reaction of the computer due to this effect (release is instant). But how do you handle long presses if you've already reacted to BUTTON_DOWN? What if you want a long press NOT to activate the default short press equipment?


But yeah, I can see that really getting under some people's skin.
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