Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 05-27-2018, 11:28 PM   #1
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Windham NH
Posts: 269
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
Kazetsukai's Build

I'm in the middle of a conversion of a 1999 International Amtran RE. Its got the t444e and I believe an Allison 545. I believe I'm at a good point for feedback and I'd like to see what others think.

20180527_162126_20%.jpg

I'm done with the demolition and core infrastructure. I've been thorough in remediating rust and sealing up exposed metal surfaces on the interior. I installed underbelly storage as my bus didn't come with any- but I also made sure mine didn't reduce my ground clearance.

20180527_162156_Burst01_20%.jpg

I'm doing some elaborate electrical with three separate isolated systems. The bus electrical, my 12V workhorse system with 600W and 400Ah of AGM batteries, and my 24V system to run the higher-power AC appliances. I mounted a series of panels to the side of my rig, something I haven't seen yet:

20180527_162236_20%.jpg20180527_162254_20%.jpg

This was done by putting up a Unistrut on the bus wall, then mounting the panels to that on hinges. I can remove these at any time and use the Unistrut mount point for virtually anything, this may or may not be a permanent setup. I have a tarp over right now to cover my e-hatches I'm in the process of deleting, and I just finished deleting all my original windows.

20180527_162417_20%.jpg

I have 1.5" foam insulation underneath plywood, underneath some lighter cherry wood colored vinyl floor. My layout is reverse that of a typical layout- bedroom in front, kitchen in the very back. I intend to delete the front door and use the rear kitchen entrance as my main.

20180527_162341_20%.jpg

I have two emergency exits- one in the rear where the kitchen is, one in my bathroom. The bathroom one is convenient- I intend to install a black tank, but if I ever switch to a composter I wont have to haul it through my living area to empty it.

20180527_162438_20%.jpg20180527_162443_20%.jpg
kazetsukai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2018, 11:34 PM   #2
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Windham NH
Posts: 269
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
I'm in the middle of deleting my hatches, replacing them with custom-welded skylights. They'll offer light, ventillation and roof access to the deck.

20180527_162406_HDR_20%.jpg

The rear hatch is directly over my walk-through shower, which will act as a hallway when not in use.

20180527_162458_20%.jpg

I replaced the overhead of the driver's area with cabinets, still a WIP.

20180527_162350_20%.jpg20180527_162516_20%.jpg

The electrical/automation is a focus of mine so if you're interested in computer control of stuff I may have some updates that interest you.

20180527_162533_20%.jpg
kazetsukai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2018, 11:41 PM   #3
New Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 7
looking good! what size storage underbelly is that and where can i find them. really nice
calivegan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2018, 11:49 PM   #4
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Windham NH
Posts: 269
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by calivegan View Post
looking good! what size storage underbelly is that and where can i find them. really nice
The underbelly boxes are 96"x18"x18", and are lockable.

20170808_181613.jpg

20170808_181857.jpg

I got them locally, but these are what I have:

https://www.amazon.com/UWS-TBUB-96-U.../dp/B004JASGVM
kazetsukai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2018, 12:17 AM   #5
New Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 7
How did you mount them?
calivegan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2018, 12:19 AM   #6
New Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 7
Also what size wood did you use for framing I'm told to use metal beams but I'm clueless as to what is best
calivegan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2018, 04:17 PM   #7
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Windham NH
Posts: 269
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by calivegan View Post
How did you mount them?
Well, for the time being I took two strips of 14 gauge metal about as long as the boxes, then drilled through those from inside the box up and into the supports holding up the cab.Because I'm not using a nut/washer, but rather full lengths of metal, the weight of the box/contents is distributed along the ceiling of the box itself.

In the long run, I'll probably weld some supports underneath. It held a couple hundred pounds of AGM batteries at a standstill as-is, but I'm hoping for at least 1000lb capacity to be on the safe side.
kazetsukai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2018, 04:22 PM   #8
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Windham NH
Posts: 269
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by calivegan View Post
Also what size wood did you use for framing I'm told to use metal beams but I'm clueless as to what is best
I bought 2x4's from home depot and stripped them down the middle with a table saw. Yoiu have to be careful to only rely on the original cuts for thickness if you want consistency, but its an ultra-cheap way to get the job done.

I've thought about using metal but I find wood eaiser to work with. I don't have any divider walls (perpendicular to the bus' length) in my build, if I did I might be inclined to use a few for that purpose, as it would be easier to follow the curve of the roof with a metal stud than a wood stud.
kazetsukai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2018, 07:54 PM   #9
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Windham NH
Posts: 269
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
Spent some time to finish off the front skylight today. Hatch and opening are just welds of square tubing and some of the 18 gauge sheet metal I bought. The hatch glass is acryllic from home depot. I cut it using a grinder so that it wouldn't chip.

20180528_193045_20%.jpg20180528_193112_Burst01_20%.jpg20180528_193142_20%.jpg

I used a pair of 1' hinges and Henry's wet patch to seal around the welds.

20180528_193230_20%.jpg20180528_193240_20%.jpg20180528_193246_20%.jpg

Have to be careful working with the acryllic. It chips and cracks easily. Amazing amount of light coming in this way- if you aren't attached to the hatches, I'd highly recommend it.

I have one coat of Henry's Tropicool up on the roof I applied last year. I need to power wash the whole thing, then apply two or three more coats in my estimation. Its sufficient for dealing with solar irradiation/heat, but to make it bulletproof as a "paint" I need a few more layers. The original color is still coming through a little bit.
kazetsukai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2018, 08:12 PM   #10
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 8,238
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Acrylic (polycarbonate) won't chip or crack. You can drill it or use a band saw. Plexi is what you're referring to.
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2018, 09:00 PM   #11
Bus Crazy
 
joeblack5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: pa
Posts: 1,518
Year: 98
Coachwork: 1. Corbeil & 2. Thomas
Chassis: 1 ford e350 2 mercedes
Engine: 7.3 powerstroke & MBE906
That is an impressive amount of stuff in one post.
Are you planning to use the solar panels on the side as an awning?
Nice storage .


good luck, J
joeblack5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2018, 10:42 AM   #12
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Windham NH
Posts: 269
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
Acrylic (polycarbonate) won't chip or crack. You can drill it or use a band saw. Plexi is what you're referring to.
Ah yeah, you're right. I confused the two.

Quote:
Originally Posted by joeblack5 View Post
That is an impressive amount of stuff in one post.
There's alot more that went on that I can't even recall at this point. The hardest work is design.

I agonized for months on where to place the heater blowers, how to run the coolant lines, where to face them, etc. Same with the positioning of the electrical panel. Once a decision was made it was easy- cut wood, drill holes, screw down, done.

Quote:
Originally Posted by joeblack5 View Post
Are you planning to use the solar panels on the side as an awning?
I've thought how I could accomplish this- basically I need to seal up the gaps between each panel and then divert the water at the Unistrut. Its high enough off the ground for someone to sit underneath in a lawn chair.
kazetsukai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2018, 11:01 AM   #13
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Windham NH
Posts: 269
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
A word of warning for others: the blue plastic fittings at Home Depot aren't good enough to run engine coolant through them. They warp and leak.

20180603_105325.jpg

Use brass.
kazetsukai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2018, 01:21 PM   #14
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 12,126
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Quote:
Originally Posted by kazetsukai View Post
A word of warning for others: the blue plastic fittings at Home Depot aren't good enough to run engine coolant through them. They warp and leak.

Attachment 22913

Use brass.



those are probably schedule 40 stuff.. 140f is generally the accepted max temperature for schedule 40.. your coolant can reach 200+. even higher if you get the bus hot for some reason.. but even on a normal day its going to be 180..



there are plastic automotive grade coolant heater fittings... I buy them all the time and they hold up well..

-Christopher
cadillackid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2018, 01:56 PM   #15
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Windham NH
Posts: 269
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
First real window in... Shed windows for $38 a piece.

1528048386757-69823853.jpg

Fills a window bay, had to drill holes for drainage in non standard mounting orientation.
kazetsukai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2018, 03:31 PM   #16
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 860
Year: 1990
Coachwork: integral
Chassis: Crown Supercoach II (rear engine)
Engine: Detroit 6V92TAC, DDEC 2, Jake brake, Allison HT740
Rated Cap: 37,400 lbs GVWR
Solar panels need to face the sun: Optimum Tilt of Solar Panels Unless you're in Alaska in mid-winter (where vertical panels work well), they won't produce much power. Remember, it's not voltage but current that charges batteries, and vertical panels in lower lattitudes won't produce much of the latter. Zephod, a previous contributor here and the BCM forum, also tried it . . .

There's good reason why all my eight panels are A) on the roof, and B) hinged so they can face the sun as best as a vehicle's roof allows. It was a lot of work to do it that way, but I did it because the payback is worth it.

John
Iceni John is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2018, 03:41 PM   #17
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 860
Year: 1990
Coachwork: integral
Chassis: Crown Supercoach II (rear engine)
Engine: Detroit 6V92TAC, DDEC 2, Jake brake, Allison HT740
Rated Cap: 37,400 lbs GVWR
Quote:
Originally Posted by kazetsukai View Post
First real window in... Shed windows for $38 a piece.

Attachment 22924

Fills a window bay, had to drill holes for drainage in non standard mounting orientation.
The picture appears to show the sliding half of the window on the inside! What sort of glass do they use?

John
Iceni John is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2018, 04:51 PM   #18
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Windham NH
Posts: 269
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iceni John View Post
Solar panels need to face the sun
That's my secondary solar power system. The panels are on hinges:

20180603_164135.jpg20180603_164244.jpg

This lets me clean these easily and my roof is free of clutter for the 3000w to follow them.

20180603_164420.jpg

Quote:
Originally Posted by Iceni John View Post
The picture appears to show the sliding half of the window on the inside! What sort of glass do they use?
These were meant to be mounted with the glass going side-to-side, not up-to-down or down-to-up like I have. Again, I had to drill additional holes to so it will drain properly this way, I also added some foam to better seal it and I cut off the original mounting bracket - I'm using the J-channel as the mount point.

I'm not sure what kind of glass they use, but regardless I plan to have plexi or acryllic cut to size to cover them from the outside. Very happy with the result:

20180603_164319.jpg
kazetsukai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2018, 09:49 PM   #19
Bus Crazy
 
ol trunt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 2,453
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
With all due respect, you'll need to reverse those windows to get the slide part towards the outside---they'll leak like a sieve the way they are. BTW, I used the double glazed tempered glass version of the same windows in my little bus. Jack
ol trunt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2018, 10:30 PM   #20
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Windham NH
Posts: 269
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by ol trunt View Post
With all due respect, you'll need to reverse those windows to get the slide part towards the outside---they'll leak like a sieve the way they are. BTW, I used the double glazed tempered glass version of the same windows in my little bus. Jack
See previous posts... The windows are made of vinyl. I've looked carefully at how water will behave in this window- there are drain holes located where water is going to flow and pool and the holes lead to the bottom of the J-channel.

In my case, I mounted the window in a vertical-slide orientation (up = open at bottom). This placed the drain holes on the side of the window. I drilled new holes in both channels of the new "bottom" of the window as well as in the J-channel for water to escape.

I could spray this window with a hose all day and the water is just going to go out. I''ll give it a shot tomorrow before I install the second one.
kazetsukai is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:21 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×