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Old 11-15-2013, 04:11 PM   #31
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

I'm almost arthritus hurts now
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Old 11-25-2013, 11:10 AM   #32
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

Originally Posted by Westward
Emergency exit that is leaking. Would like to replace with a newer one, but have thought about removing this one and closing in the cut out. This exit would be over the master bed, so it would be nice to draw a breeze through the bedroom at night. but the cost of a new one is around $ any ideas??
I suggest you get an RV roof vent with a screen like this: ... 7AodmHEApQ. I will eventually replace my emergency hatches with those. The original hatches are a hassle to open and close and I'm not sure how I would put a screen in to keep bugs out.
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Old 11-26-2013, 05:29 AM   #33
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

I'm biased but I think you should use one of these.

You can use it in the rain and while driving. When closed it acts like a ceiling fan. I replaced my front emergency exit with one.

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Old 01-11-2014, 09:06 PM   #34
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

So it's been awhile, but work has been getting done (the most we've been able to do so far.... Took all the windows out and rearranged them. Moved the emergency exit windows around and put in some window blanks in the areas behind the showers, closet and the wood stove location.

The blanks are made out of 16ga sheet metal (may be a little overkill), and had the edges bent in 1 inch. The tabs along the side will allow for attachment around the window frame. With the sheetmetal being as heavy as it was, the edges weren't 90 corners, they were round corners at a 90 degree angle, making it tough to get the screws started. The Tek self drilling screws are AWESOME.

Removed the Roof escape hatches and covered over with 16 ga sheetmetal. 1st drilled holes 3in apart 3/8" in along the outside edges of the sheetmetal. Then once on the roof, set the metal over the hole, and drilled a hole through each corner and then loosely screwed it to the roof (Tek 3/4" self-drilling, with neoprene washer). Once set, then used the sheetmetal as a templete and drilled holes into the roof. Unscrewed the sheetmetal, and then placed butyl taped along the edge under the drilled holes to seal between the roof and the panel. (FYI butyl tape seems to be good stuff, and all that I read was good about it, but cold butyl tape isn't very pliable). Then went back and used the tek screws and starting from the middle and working to the outside screwed the panel to the roof. Then caulked around the edge for good measure.

Took the strobe light off the back of the bus, and took the idea from Diesel Dan and WMKBailey, installed an RV vent. Traced the Vent, cut it out using the cutting wheel on the angle grinder, and set the vent in. With the roof curvature, and not wanting to bend the vent frame trying to make it fit, I built up the butyl tape under the vent screw holes and then used sheet metal screws with neoprene washers to hold it down. Caulked around it too. Looks good and it rained like cats and dogs today and no leaks.

Then we moved on to installing the insulation. Came across a good deal on 1.5" blue foam board on craigslist (was the perfect thickness for the roof and walls). Cut the insulation the correct demensions to fit between the roof braces and side braces. With the roof curvature, we then took each piece and cut it into 1/4 for the center section, for the more curved side roof parts, we cut each piece into about 6 pieces.

It was impossible to get each piece cut to fit perfectly, so each peice was trimmed to fit. Some gaps were left behind, so we used Great Stuff hold it in and fill the gaps. Trying to use the little squeeze nozzle was pointless, it was weak and wouldn't fit in the small areas well. Found that puttng on a rubber glove and used the can straight up would fit in the gaps and force the foam in.

To hold up the insulation while the Great Stuff dried, I made some simple braces. Cut firring strips to height, then used 3/8" Pex about 2.5' long screwed to the top of the firring strip. The flexible pex bent, yet applied some upward force.

Got all the insulation in except for the roof patch that I'm going to put a vent in.

Then we caulked all the holes in the floor shut.

Next up, using chalk to sketch out the layout and then start building walls, then insulating the the floor, shower pan and walls, bathroom walls and so on...... PROGRESS!!

By the way....vapor barrier between the insulation and the ceiling/walls...good idea or not?
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Old 01-11-2014, 11:19 PM   #35
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

A very professional job. Thanks for the tip on Great Stuff.
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Old 01-12-2014, 12:00 AM   #36
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

Great work on everything!
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Old 01-12-2014, 09:31 PM   #37
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

looks really good, thanks for the pics. your going to have a nice, warm bus.
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Old 01-13-2014, 07:55 AM   #38
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

Thanks for the detail on the roof insulation. I was thinking
of doing something along those lines. good to see how it
worked out for you.
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Old 01-27-2014, 11:23 PM   #39
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

Looks great, wish we would've done the same, looks like a lot of work but it should definitely pay off.
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Old 02-04-2014, 04:34 PM   #40
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

With the insulation in we were able to move on to some other things. After using the butyl tape around the windows, we had some minor leaks (the metal at the bottom of the window opening, had gaps from when it was built, like 1/2" gaps) I went back and caulked the bottom of the windows from the outside with Geocel Proflex RV. That stuff is gooey, smells strong (Lots of VOC's), but looks great and seals awesome. Right as I finished caulking the last windows on one side it began to rain as I stepped off the ladder, and that stuff had no problems with the rain. Also went ahead and installed a 2nd roof vent back through one of the patches for the old roof vent.

Cutting through the 16 ga steel took a little bit and had to use the grinder to round out the corners a for the vent to fit.

With the vent in we wanted to go ahead and frame in the back wall of the bus.

This wall will seperate the living area from the workshop. The wall is built from 2x3's. The side studs and the boards on the floor are screwed through the metal using the Tek self drilling screws, had to counter sink the screws to get the depth needed. The bed is going long ways over the wheel hump, and the wall will be part of the bed frame as well. The water tanks are going to be between the wheel wells under the bed. I've got 2 30gal tanks on order that I am going to hook together for 60 gal of freshwater. The bed will also be high enough for storage of plastic totes under it as well. Over the right wheel hump (facing the back of the bus as the photo is) is going to be closet space and plumbing for the water tanks.

We put up a celing over the areas where the shower and toilet room are going. We used 1x4 firring strips with self drilling pan head screws attached to the ceiling ribs. Since we removed the metal ceiling we needed a material that would could attach the shower and toilet walls studs to, and the 1x4s fit the bill and fit together pretty good too. Had to make them adjust some (put in one screw and then twist, or push, to get the seams to meet and then put the next screw in) Fairly in expensive, about $60 of wood to do it, so we aren't going to do the whole bus ceiling this way (not yet, that would be $360 of 1x4s)

Here is the shower pan with the studs around it. We got a sweet deal on the shower pan and were able to make the slightly larger pan fit. we turned the 2x3s side ways to make it narrower and still strong. Made a box on one side for the shower plumbing later.

Here is the frame of the bottom of the U-shaped couch we are going to make. Left the bottom open for storage. Going to have the cushions in sections so to access the storage just lift the cushion with the plywood under it. The access hole to the fuel tank is also here, so we made sure to leave enough space for access to it if ever needed. The left side of the couch will also double as the booth seat for the dinnette area. We have already made the frame for a removal seat back the can be switched to be on the couch side when sitting at the table, or moved to the table side for sitting on the couch.

To get the passenger seat it I stole Bansils set up. Took the bus seat frame and cut it down width ways to the size I needed to mount the seat, and cut the back of the seat off (that is going to be part of the removal seat back for the couch and dinnette table). Welded the seat frame back together and will reinforce with some angle iron under the cut part. The seat was a sweet freebie from a suburban we used for vehicle extrication training at the Fire department. After what we did to that thing, it won't need a seat any more!
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