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Old 10-03-2016, 04:52 AM   #1
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Darrington, Wa.
Posts: 304
Year: 1994
Coachwork: Genesis/Am-Tran Tall Roof
Chassis: International, 643 transmission
Engine: DT 466ci 250hp, International
Rated Cap: 86 screaming Monsters
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1994 International Genesis Am-Tram Body Class D
Specs
37000 GVW
86 Passenger 15 window High Roof
International DT 466CI 7.6 liter
Allison 643 Transmission
Re-Manufactured Engine and Transmission
Rear wheel sanders
Rear suspension air bagged
Brakes Air system
Two emergency roof escapes
35ft Interior length from back of drivers seat to inside of back door
7.5ft Interior space side to side
77" Roof to floor height before removing anything at center of vehicle
70" Roof to floor at side wall (window wall)
36" Rear back door width open
Rear Wheel Well is 12ft from rear door, then 42' long and 2ft wide
Under Vehicle from top of rear tire to Rear wheel well top 9"

I'll post some Videos and pictures, I wanted a build spec page on this bus as I found it hard to find some of this info when I was trying to decide on which one to go with.

My Bus conversion will be all about creating a (car hauler/work shop) in the rear of the bus. Approximately 19ft from the rear wall to a divider wall in the bus. These two rooms will be completely divided as I don't want any of the car smells in the RV portion of the cabin. This work shop/car hauler area will have a small car hoist I use in it that raises a car about 2ft which will put the roof of the car at about 6" from the bus's ceiling when its all the way up. Also a small ceiling mounted gantry lift for installing and removing the cars engine and transmission. A front bench at the forward wall that I will incorporate a sink and parts washer into. I'll need to find a space for my tools and some spare parts in this room or add some side compartments under the bus?

The RV interior my plan is to find a online RV trailer with the same size area of about 15/16ft by 7.5ft and copy there lay out very closely. Ideally I'd like double sink house kitchen size with a bit of counter next to it for preparing meals a place to put a portable cook top and or could be a table to eat from or work from?
I'd like to install a full size home fridge with water and ice on it if I can find a older model not running a bunch of electronics when its just sitting there?
An apartment size stack-able washer dryer that is propane.
Trash compacter for sure.
on demand propane hot water heater
A large shower and toilet area that gives you room to take care of business. I have house boat with toilet in the shower area and a small shower pan as it is. I don't see why I wont be able to have a 36" stand up shower with a toilet in the same size room.
Depending on how well I can set up these things in the RV will depend on sleeping. I don't mind a good mattress and a fold up cot either mounted to a wall or free standing. I have a couple three flat screens to choose from for each part of the bus. Rear shop, RV area and maybe one that goes out side on the bus under the awning. I was hoping with things like a flat screen out side and BBQ out side with one of those plastic fold up tables that costco sells that has the sink in it for preparing food would make the whole thing a lot bigger. I will be traveling alone with guests here and there I believe so a small air mattress should suffice.

I believe a source of storage may be my biggest problem. I roof rack could be a great place to store some items in water proof totes of some kind. maybe a aluminum ladder that slides up under the back of the bus to use to access the roof totes for fold-able chairs and other things.

I'd like to keep the outside of the bus as close to looking like its no more than a Conversion bus RV. including an Awning an a custom modern paint job with aluminum bus wheels or stainless simulators. Modern LED brake lights, turning lights, reverse lights and driving lights all integrated in the bumpers. Trailer hitch to tow a spare car (TOAD).


(Need some help Ideas below on this issue)

On this build before I can decide how I will lay it out. I have one measurement I must deal with. The rear wheel wells are exactly in my way. I need that area flat with the floor. I have seen this wheel well cut down by about half in a YOUTUBE video. I cant find it now for a reference. I have no idea how that worked out I just saw them do it.
My idea to test how much I can remove or what it will take to remove the wheel well flat. First I will start with dropping the air out of the suspension taking a measurement and seeing how much of the 9" is used between the top of the tire and top of wheel or the floor of bus. I was hoping it did not have that much wheel travel and I can just install some lift blocks on the bus. I don't see where a 4" lift kit would be a issue. I have not looked at the front end yet except to know its not an air bagged suspension. I assume I'll want to raise the front of the bus and make it sit level any how. I have no idea yet but it could also lead to the front wheel well being removed as well. This would sure make it easier to put any RV option in any place and not work around the wheel well. But I only need the rear wheel well removed for sure.

More to come as I start to build it. any odd measurement I take ill post.
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Old 10-03-2016, 05:12 AM   #2
Bus Nut
 
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Richmond Virginia
Posts: 894
Year: 1984
Engine: 366 Big block Chevy! :) w/ Stick shift
Coolz! A Arace car? I look forward to seeing pictures
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Old 10-03-2016, 07:39 AM   #3
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Music City USA
Posts: 737
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: Detroit MBE906
Rated Cap: 72
I'm not sure how that ceiling mounted lift you mention would work... as strong as a bus roof is, I'm not sure it would handle the added weight of a car engine/transmission on top of the weight of the lift itself. I certainly wouldn't do it without some kind of reinforcing beams or a means to distribute the weight in place.
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Old 10-03-2016, 12:47 PM   #4
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Mount Victory, OH
Posts: 68
Good concept! Good luck on your build.
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Old 10-03-2016, 03:19 PM   #5
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Darrington, Wa.
Posts: 304
Year: 1994
Coachwork: Genesis/Am-Tran Tall Roof
Chassis: International, 643 transmission
Engine: DT 466ci 250hp, International
Rated Cap: 86 screaming Monsters
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlleyCat67 View Post
I'm not sure how that ceiling mounted lift you mention would work... as strong as a bus roof is, I'm not sure it would handle the added weight of a car engine/transmission on top of the weight of the lift itself. I certainly wouldn't do it without some kind of reinforcing beams or a means to distribute the weight in place.
The transmission ways 56lbs and the block and head get removed separately. the head is about 20lbs and the block is 60ish lbs. So it wont take much reinforcement but I'll had some for sure. The lift is attached at 4 points so the load is really spread out. Even at 100lbs each point on the roof will be only 25lbs. Its closer to motor cycle work than car with these Suzuki and Geo vehicles. The whole car is only 1650 lbs.
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Old 10-03-2016, 03:27 PM   #6
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Darrington, Wa.
Posts: 304
Year: 1994
Coachwork: Genesis/Am-Tran Tall Roof
Chassis: International, 643 transmission
Engine: DT 466ci 250hp, International
Rated Cap: 86 screaming Monsters
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carytowncat View Post
Coolz! A Arace car? I look forward to seeing pictures
I build high MPG commuter cars and tow behinds for rvs (TOADS). My ex works (teaches) from the road in a rv and it looks like a great way to get away from the house and travel. I decided to try it myself for a year starting next winter heading south. Kids out of college house is paid for so why not see if I can work and fish all in one. Just wish i had more length, this theme in life seems to repeat. planes boats bus's ex's. solar panels
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Old 10-03-2016, 04:01 PM   #7
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Music City USA
Posts: 737
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: Detroit MBE906
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geo Jeff View Post
The transmission ways 56lbs and the block and head get removed separately. the head is about 20lbs and the block is 60ish lbs. So it wont take much reinforcement but I'll had some for sure. The lift is attached at 4 points so the load is really spread out. Even at 100lbs each point on the roof will be only 25lbs. Its closer to motor cycle work than car with these Suzuki and Geo vehicles. The whole car is only 1650 lbs.
Only 80 lbs total for an engine? Must be a tiny engine then, even in smaller cars I'd figure they'd weigh in at a couple hundred at the least, then another 150 for the tranny. But being the makes you mentioned that at least seems possible.

Look forward to seeing how you pull this off.
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My bus - Jasmine - External Build Website - YouTube Channel - TN/KY Meetup Group
As a level 1 burglar, Bilbo got a pony when he accompanied the level 60 dwarves on the Smaug the Dragon raid. Those powerlevelers probably invited him solely so he could trigger fellowship attacks for them.
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Old 10-03-2016, 04:08 PM   #8
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 5,071
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
I was told by someone that 2 people could pull an engine out of my Smart car (from the bottom) and then easily lift it up into a truck... Ive never needed to as that car is new.. but interesting thought to just lift engines around like that.
-Christopher
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Old 10-03-2016, 04:26 PM   #9
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Darrington, Wa.
Posts: 304
Year: 1994
Coachwork: Genesis/Am-Tran Tall Roof
Chassis: International, 643 transmission
Engine: DT 466ci 250hp, International
Rated Cap: 86 screaming Monsters
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlleyCat67 View Post
Only 80 lbs total for an engine? Must be a tiny engine then, even in smaller cars I'd figure they'd weigh in at a couple hundred at the least, then another 150 for the tranny. But being the makes you mentioned that at least seems possible.

Look forward to seeing how you pull this off.
not 150 on the transmission 56lbs. I use to not use a lift and just pull my back out doing it by hand.
The grab rails in the roof of the buses fro standing commuters look to me to have so much more load on them than i could ever have.

being the buses talk about rolling over and the roof is arched i think those trusses are going to give me plenty to work with. I lift the components and just roll them on the lift to the bench in the front and attach them to a engine stand that is part of the bench. I use to engine stands next to each other. one has the old engine the new one is the new block. Then i start my build and swap over what i need from the original engine. Its tight I have it taped off in my garage now. I'm seeing when i go outside the area of the bus and what to do to correct that issue.
Its looking like a could 2 ft slide outs will fix my storage and space issues. Currently I have parts and tools on peg boards on each wall. Kind of like snap on tool truck would have. NOw if i was ready top work and could make those walls slide out so i could get to the brakes wheel bearings That would be great. Currently it looks like if i just push mu hoist to one wall i can have plenty of room on the other side but with no peg board room. Then do that side roll the car back or out and slide the hoist to the other side and do the service on the vehicles opposite side.

Slides are a bit tricky the walls and whats on them can only go in as far as whats in the room. normally its nothing and open in an RV. for me I have 12" to the cars body and that's with the mirrors of the car removed which i would do it takes just a moment. So i need to figure out if i can slide the wall out 70" tall and 19ft or so. I cant make the floor slide fro the tip out under where the car or hoist is. But I may slide the wall back and have open floor area and set boards in or on the wall have floor hinged to fold down and cover the opening so i can walk and have the floor all level in side. In front and behind the car I build the tip out side walls as deep as I need since they car and hoist wont be in there way. I even though a canvas side wall and roof would be easy and light weight. Like a tent maybe it would just snap on? take it off when you close it and fold the material up and stow it. If my parts and tools stay dry and in the heat i can have it sealed so the air conditioning can work I'm good to go. Its all in the details I'm hoping I can get some design ideas from every one.
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Old 10-03-2016, 04:33 PM   #10
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Darrington, Wa.
Posts: 304
Year: 1994
Coachwork: Genesis/Am-Tran Tall Roof
Chassis: International, 643 transmission
Engine: DT 466ci 250hp, International
Rated Cap: 86 screaming Monsters
Does any one have a picture of a school bus with a lift gate on the rear. I need to go take a picture of one on a semi trailer. I'm wondering how it attaches from a semi trailer to a bus chassis. I see the big arms running up on each side. I need to know a weight on one to make sure I'm not lifting the front wheels on the bus off the ground or how much counter balance i might need up there. its got to be 2000lbs or more. I'm going to make the deck about 10 to 12 foot long to drive on. It makes sense if they don't offer a foot to the ground when your using it I might just need one since the bus suspension is not like a semitrailer. Or at least I'm not lifting the bus up in the front using it to drive in and out of.
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