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Old 09-16-2016, 04:38 AM   #41
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Nice! Good start!
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Old 09-16-2016, 04:10 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slidewayzm5 View Post
Hey dude! Glad you're chugging along with your build. Let me help you out with a ton of advice that I've either gleaned from here or learned from mistakes as I go.

First - get a 60-80 grit flap wheel (10 pack) for your 4.5" grinder. Crappy tire has a sale on or P Auto is your friend. Then it only takes 10 secs a rivet and does a WAY nicer job. Finally you get a steel punch and a hammer and knock them out once you've ground them flush.

COVER all of your windows - so that sparks from grinding don't hit them. I effed up my drivers mirror because I was "watching" my sparks and then forgot when I leaned out of the window a couple back and shot a tirade of sparks forward. Fack!

I've got quite a few other tidbits but that's the best start.

Shoot me a text and we can chat more.
I'd like to take a look at that bus in person - it's pretty sweet.
Do you think a sheet would be fine? Or would the metal flecks penetrate that? Already put a fleck into my iphone6s! :S
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Old 09-16-2016, 04:44 PM   #43
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I'd put something heavy enough that it doesn't start on fire and doesn't get a hole burned into it right away. An old tarp worked for a while but I had to keep moving it as it started melting.
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Old 09-23-2016, 01:34 PM   #44
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UPDATE!

SO after reading countless threads on here regarding technique for removing roof rivets, here is my feedback.

1. Regular angle grinder grinding disc or cutting disc. Nope, takes too long

2. Air hammer with chisel bit: Waste of time, too much physical exertion, about 30 seconds/rivet head

3. Flappy paddle disc for angle grinder: HOLY LORD ALMIGHTY THE EASIEST WAY POSSIBLE!



Perhaps 5 seconds a rivet head. Didnt take long to cover the windows to avoid any flecks hitting the glass. Thank you the Slidewayz for the recommendation. By far the easiest/fastest method.

So here is my bare roof. No leaks!!!!!! and Hardly any tar either. Winning




I did start into one wall before I gave up for the day and there is a LOT of tar for the insulation to adhere to. The plan is to spray foam these areas. Should I bother removing the tar? Or can I just spray foam over it?

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Old 09-26-2016, 02:26 PM   #45
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More progress yesterday. Just exhausted after fighting all those damn rivets. Walls out, insulation out, most cleaned and ready for spray foam insulation.



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Old 09-27-2016, 04:40 PM   #46
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Awesome dude - people helping people!
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Old 09-30-2016, 12:51 PM   #47
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Sooo insulation happened yesterday. Slidewayz and I both got our buses done together. Inside and underbody. The whole thing cost me $1200 CAD. Couldnt be more thrilled with how it turned out.





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Old 09-30-2016, 04:19 PM   #48
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NICE, you'll appreciate that insulation!
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Old 09-30-2016, 11:16 PM   #49
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Yeah buddy!!
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Old 10-01-2016, 01:39 AM   #50
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Which transmission do you have paired with 5.9?

I just bought tc2000 (cummins 5.9 w/ Alison 2000 series with overdrive). I'm a little condensed the tan is acting up and looking for a reference vehicle.
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Old 10-01-2016, 01:25 PM   #51
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Update: It wasn't the tran. It was the rear-most u-joint. As I was crawling around under there, I noticed that all of the u-joints looked pretty devoid of grease. going to replace them all.
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Old 04-11-2017, 06:18 PM   #52
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More issues with my heater removal. Im deleting the coolant based heaters as I wont be running this rig in winter and ill still have the dash heater.

Where do you guys find additional 1 inch metal fittings to re route your coolant lines????? And what type of hose should I be getting? I dont want it to melt and spill coolant everywhere on my first outing....
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Old 04-11-2017, 07:04 PM   #53
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some small cars use 1 inch radiator lines.. many fittings are available on a site like schoolbuspartsco or midwest bus parts, etc.. i found the ones i needed to build my new Dash A/C and heater on ebay.. I needed 1 inch to 5/8 adapters...

-Christopher
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Old 04-19-2017, 12:03 PM   #54
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Roof vents in









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Old 04-19-2017, 12:30 PM   #55
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Nice job with the vent.
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