Long time lurker, now I guess I need to contribute!

[-cycosis-]

Took a break at work to browse Gov deals. And.... I won an auction!

Year 2000 Bluebird TC2000, cummins 5.9L 24 valve turbo diesel. Still not sure what tranny it has. 198,000km. Just went out of service this april so should be in relatively good running order. Drove home for 2 hours like a dream. My old c class RV could only muster 60 mph. This thing cruised up to 70 no problem.

Im curious to hear what many of you think would have been a fair price for this bus. I have scoured re seller markets for a while and everything listed up here has been crap. So much rust from salty roads during the winter.

So excited!!!!!! Theres hardly any body rust, other then a wheel arch on the left side of the bus.

Not much will be done in 2016 as I have a wedding coming up with lots of commitments, but hey, its never too early to start right?

[cowlitzcoach]

$3K-$5K would be a very fair price.

[Tango]

Love them Birds! Looks like a good one and I would agree that $3 to 5K would be excellent if she is tight and pretty rust free.

[-cycosis-]

USD? I got it for $4500 CAD so about $3400 USD

Now I'm more stoked cause I was in a bidding war with another person. We went back and forth for over an hour at $10 increments

[Robin97396]

It is proxy bidding isn't it?

Regardless, nice deal. Tell the bride she's got competition.

[Roadrunner]

Sweet! Welcome to the madness. That was a good price. It looks like it is in nice shape. Post more pics and keep us updated on the progress. Oh, and ask all the questions you need to. Congratulations on becoming a bus owner!

[Arvik]

sweet ride!!

[-cycosis-]

Alright problem number 1. The volt meter on the dash was not working in the trip home (2hours) and sure enough next day, the bus was dead. Quick boost and got her running. Surprise surprise the volt meter pops up to 14 and I let it run for 20 mins. Started up each time now over the last couple of days except I'm back to a 0 on the volt meter. Tips for diagnosis? My guess is the battery is getting no charge when the volt meter is at 0.

[Robin97396]

Don't take this as insulting. Have you've cleaned your battery terminals? Also where the ground attaches to the frame or body. Most of the time it's the simplest things.

[Arvik]

Originally Posted by Robin97396

Don't take this as insulting. Have you've cleaned your battery terminals? Also where the ground attaches to the frame or body. Most of the time it's the simplest things.

agreed. check negative terminal connections.

[cadillackid]

nice lookin ride!!
-Christopher

[-cycosis-]

No insults taken. ;) the only mechanical thing I have ever done was lightly rebuild a 360 engine. I'll check that tomorrow

[-cycosis-]

Ok so as the plan unfolds, a big question for you all:

To strip the internal walls and roof of sheetmetal/insulation or not to strip the walls and roof?

I will certainly do the floors. This rig is not being built to live in, only to enjoy on weekends camping/festivals/parks during spring/summer months. We will be installing a small wood burning stove and roof mounted 15000 BTU A/C unit.

Is it really necessary to rip out the insulation and redo it with foam board if these are the uses? Or should I just make sure its water tight, and go nuts with cedar board?

[gbstewart]

welcome fellow Canadian , I stripped out the walls, and the floor, I liked my ceiling the way it was, some tear everything out others leave everthing in and build over it. it really depends on how you want to use your bus.
gbstewart

[-cycosis-]

Is it true Canadian buses have better insulation than US ones?

Big question of the day, after cleaning all the battery contacts, the battery is holding a charge. Woo! BUT, I went to start the bus today and each time I put the key in, there is a ridiculous buzzing coming from the switch/control panel. Its definitely a mechanical buzzer, right under my driver's left armrest. The hell is it? I tried every switch I could see and nothing would stop it other than pulling the key out....

I think I will be able to demo the interior in August. Sigh. I just want to start!

[cadillackid]

There are buzzers in the dash cluster of your brake air pressure is low.. Run the engine to clear that buzzer and make sure your air pumps up if you have air brakes..

There's also a buzzer that sounds if any of the emergency exits are not closed and latched properly.. The rear door, any roof hatches and the side emergency Windows all have to be closed and latched otherwise you get a nice loud constant buzzer.
Christopher

[-cycosis-]

Thx, I will investigate everything when Im home from work this evening. No air brakes, so its most likely someone dicking around with my rear door.

[-cycosis-]

These are the heaters Im up against. They run the length of the bus on each side. I have not come across another thread that had the same type of heaters.

Suggestions for eventual removal?

[cadillackid]

badass!! is this a coach? Ive never seen a school bus with length-wise radiant heat.. Id totally love to have heaters like that!!!

I have the channels for the heater lines to run down and then just a fan coil in the back.. and then the driver console with 3 heaters and the door with 2...

-Christopher

[-cycosis-]

NO one else have any ideas?

I am also having an odd problem with the stock radio that I plan to remove. Everytime I depress the gas pedal, a super loud "whirling" noise comes through the speakers if the radio is on. Higher the rpm, more high pitched noise. ????