Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 06-09-2018, 02:54 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Asheville
Posts: 12
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 42
Lucky Nolichucky: Ceiling Panels

I started trying to take out the screws on the ceiling panels and was having very little success. Half we're already stripped. Others instantly stripped. Tried using angle grinder to cut a slot in the stubborn ones and used a flat head to back them out but damn it if they didn't break two of my impact rated bits!! I tried redicing the torque a little but then they just wouldn't budge. I'm over it. So I'm just using the grinder to cut the panels off the ribs, leaving the strip of screws in place. Mmmmm love that glowing fiberglass and sparks in my face.

avianlaw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2018, 03:10 PM   #2
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Best solution has been an air chisel with the chisel edge ground just right and it knocks the heads right off, not sure if it works as well with screws as rivets.
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2018, 09:54 PM   #3
Bus Nut
 
Yukon Cornelius's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Barrie ON
Posts: 440
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 72
Air chisel or drilling them out are the cleanest options...
there is also the woodpecker, aka impact driver most decent impact sockets sets have one in them.

https://www.amazon.ca/Klein-Tools-70...ag=googcana-20

the shock effect of the hammer can break the torque and then you can carry on with your drill
__________________
Yukon

Handyman and Shenaniganizer
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/97...ion-22324.html
Yukon Cornelius is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2018, 11:34 PM   #4
New Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 4
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: GM 6.5L Duramax Turbo Diesel
Rated Cap: 26
Weird as it may sound, try using a hand drill with a ratcheting feature. I had the same problem with an electric drill, but a hand drill took them right out.
ermccune is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2018, 08:05 AM   #5
Skoolie
 
Jman6631's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 193
This difficulty seems to come up all the time. A hand chisel and heavy hammer work fine. It's a workout and PITA but they'll snap right off.
Jman6631 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2018, 10:16 AM   #6
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jman6631 View Post
This difficulty seems to come up all the time. A hand chisel and heavy hammer work fine. It's a workout and PITA but they'll snap right off.
Are we talking the same for solid screws as hollow rivets?
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2018, 01:30 PM   #7
Bus Nut
 
jjhwick119's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Frisco, Texas
Posts: 829
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: Dt466e
Rated Cap: 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by avianlaw View Post
I started trying to take out the screws on the ceiling panels and was having very little success. Half we're already stripped. Others instantly stripped. Tried using angle grinder to cut a slot in the stubborn ones and used a flat head to back them out but damn it if they didn't break two of my impact rated bits!! I tried redicing the torque a little but then they just wouldn't budge. I'm over it. So I'm just using the grinder to cut the panels off the ribs, leaving the strip of screws in place. Mmmmm love that glowing fiberglass and sparks in my face.
I removed mine with my 20v dewalt impact driver. If there is any kind of dirt or anything in the screw head, clean it out with a pick or something first. If the phillips doesnt sit all the way in you will strip them. I had that problem at first doing my floor but once i cleaned out the screw heads they came out much easier.

The vast majority of my roof screws came out fine, but the ones that didn't I just ended up using a drill bit and drilled them out. I only had about 15 or so though that i had to drill out, might not be the fastest if you have a lot of them, but it does work.
__________________
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/n...tml#post256987
My build thread - Started 3.2.18
jjhwick119 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2018, 11:04 AM   #8
Bus Nut
 
Yukon Cornelius's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Barrie ON
Posts: 440
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjhwick119 View Post
I removed mine with my 20v dewalt impact driver. If there is any kind of dirt or anything in the screw head, clean it out with a pick or something first. If the phillips doesnt sit all the way in you will strip them. I had that problem at first doing my floor but once i cleaned out the screw heads they came out much easier.

The vast majority of my roof screws came out fine, but the ones that didn't I just ended up using a drill bit and drilled them out. I only had about 15 or so though that i had to drill out, might not be the fastest if you have a lot of them, but it does work.
Most of the screws from what I've seen can be better served with a Robertson of the appropriate size. But 100% on the cleaning of the screw head, a pick, some degreaser spray (water and vinegar is good enough), and boom
__________________
Yukon

Handyman and Shenaniganizer
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/97...ion-22324.html
Yukon Cornelius is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2018, 05:10 PM   #9
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: SW New Hampshire
Posts: 1,334
I've heard that putting a little bit of valve grinding compound on the screwdriver bit helps it grab and not spin out, also. No personal experience, just passing on a tip.
dan-fox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2018, 06:33 PM   #10
Bus Nut
 
Yukon Cornelius's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Barrie ON
Posts: 440
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan-fox View Post
I've heard that putting a little bit of valve grinding compound on the screwdriver bit helps it grab and not spin out, also. No personal experience, just passing on a tip.
It works, there is also a product made specifically for this purpose too.
https://ezgrip.net/
__________________
Yukon

Handyman and Shenaniganizer
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/97...ion-22324.html
Yukon Cornelius is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2018, 11:48 AM   #11
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Tahoe
Posts: 513
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
I switched to a square bit for some that got stripped and it worked. On others I angle ground in a big slot and used a flat head screwdriver bit. A couple required extra motivation from a hammer and old screwdriver and I think I gave up and ground off a couple.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukon Cornelius View Post
It works, there is also a product made specifically for this purpose too.
https://ezgrip.net/
__________________
middle aged mom on a learning adventure
2martins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2018, 04:11 PM   #12
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 31
I got every single one of my ceiling screws out with a hammer and a regular cordless driver. Some came out with just the driver, the rest got a few good hard whacks with the hammer and then a second try with the driver. For the remaining few extra stubborn ones I pushed the sharp edge of a crowbar up against the side of the screwhead and hammered the other end of the bar a few times (to jolt the screw from a sideways direction in addition to the previous vertical hammer blows).

I've found that this method even works on rusty exterior screws, with the addition of a little PB Blaster.
cromulence police is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2018, 10:51 PM   #13
Mini-Skoolie
 
Celestina's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Oregon
Posts: 18
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP
Engine: Cummins 6 cyl ISB CM550 250HP
Rated Cap: 80
Smile I switched to a square bit

I was using a #2 Phillips screwdriver bit and was stripping about 30% of them until my brother suggested using the square bit. Works like a charm. Only a few that have gunk built up in the center give me problems now.
__________________
Wandering the World in Wonder
Celestina is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2018, 10:58 AM   #14
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Tahoe
Posts: 513
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
Quote:
Originally Posted by Celestina View Post
I was using a #2 Phillips screwdriver bit and was stripping about 30% of them until my brother suggested using the square bit. Works like a charm. Only a few that have gunk built up in the center give me problems now.
This is where you use the angle grinder to make the slots bigger and cleaner. And the PB blaster and horizontal whacks as mentioned above, too.
__________________
middle aged mom on a learning adventure
2martins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2018, 11:24 AM   #15
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Or use the correct tool for $3, an impact square drive 3" bit.
Attached Thumbnails
20180624_145520.jpg  
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2018, 12:50 PM   #16
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Asheville
Posts: 12
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 42
grinder

I just ended up taking a grinder to the ceiling panels and left all the screws in the ribs, aint nobody got time to unscrew all those squirrely bastards.
avianlaw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2018, 12:59 PM   #17
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by avianlaw View Post
I just ended up taking a grinder to the ceiling panels and left all the screws in the ribs, aint nobody got time to unscrew all those squirrely bastards.
I guarantee I can remove the screws faster with an impact drill than you can with a grinder, not even close.
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2018, 01:22 PM   #18
Bus Nut
 
Whatthefak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Wisconsin N.E.
Posts: 412
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
My drill stripped some too. I used a black and Decker impact from Walmart with a Milwaukee impact bit kit, the larger size fit perfectly and I didn't strip a single screw after that.

PS I now have a 1gal bucket full of screws, but it beats the hell out of rivets
Whatthefak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2018, 02:00 PM   #19
Mini-Skoolie
 
Celestina's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Oregon
Posts: 18
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP
Engine: Cummins 6 cyl ISB CM550 250HP
Rated Cap: 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2martins View Post
This is where you use the angle grinder to make the slots bigger and cleaner. And the PB blaster and horizontal whacks as mentioned above, too.
So finished removing the ceiling. Used the square drive and got all but 4 screws removed in 4 hours. 40’ bus, so 16 panels with 61 screws per panel. Ceiling stayed up on its own. Came back the next day and started pulling the panels down. Took 15 minutes, mostly because I forgot about the four screws that were stuck and I had to grind off. There was a paper like something on the back of the panels. I had the kind with zillions of holes in the metal. The paper stuff was very fragile and would disintegrate on contact. Make a mess, almost like snow.
__________________
Wandering the World in Wonder
Celestina is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2018, 03:05 PM   #20
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Asheville
Posts: 12
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
I guarantee I can remove the screws faster with an impact drill than you can with a grinder, not even close.


LOL come on over then!! I used my impact drill, like i said the metal was soft. the torque was too much and ripped up the hole. Tried a regular drill and if the torque wasn't enough then it wouldn't budge, but if too much then it stripped the metal. broke several impact-rated bits. I have bursitis in my shoulder i was over it.
avianlaw is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
angle grinder, ceiling panel, demolition, insulation, removal


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:15 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.