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Old 07-19-2015, 12:05 AM   #221
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Since it wasn't clear what sequence or combination of connections were done, here's a note about them: soldering is a great way to join wires. However, don't use solder followed by mechanical joining (crimp/screw/clamp/etc). This can be especially tempting when crimping terminals to the end of a conductor. If ever anything causes that joint to get warm, such as a screw working loose on a ring terminal, then the solder will soften, which makes the mechanical connection more loose, it then produces more heat... things can go downhill fast. The well-done mechanical-only joint would have heated, but without solder going soft and creating a loose connection in the compressed area, the heating would be better limited.
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Old 07-19-2015, 07:43 AM   #222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by family wagon View Post
Since it wasn't clear what sequence or combination of connections were done, here's a note about them: soldering is a great way to join wires. However, don't use solder followed by mechanical joining (crimp/screw/clamp/etc). This can be especially tempting when crimping terminals to the end of a conductor. If ever anything causes that joint to get warm, such as a screw working loose on a ring terminal, then the solder will soften, which makes the mechanical connection more loose, it then produces more heat... things can go downhill fast. The well-done mechanical-only joint would have heated, but without solder going soft and creating a loose connection in the compressed area, the heating would be better limited.
I generally appreciate advice, so thank you.

I will, however, respectfully disagree based on my experience in mobile electronics. Solder is not, and never has been, intended as a binding agent. It is merely a tool to improve conduction and MUST be supported with some kind of mechanical connection, particularly in a mobile environment. If not it will work harden and crack, causing a bad connection.

Not soldering, however, is a great way to create the exact heat situation you are describing. I can't count the number of times I've dealt with non-soldered shoddy workmanship that makes for intermittent connections and unnecessary heat. That is the stick and staple (and redneck radio and amp install) way and the whole reason wire nuts in S/S campers are melted half the time.

So, to clarify my connection method -
I twist the stranded wire together.
Heat the connection, applying solder until it wicks into the wire and evenly coats the wires being joined.
Cap it with a wire nut.
Tape the connection starting with the wire nut, winding down around the wires, pulling them tight together below the nut, and winding back over the nut so the tape pulls the wire nut in both directions.
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Old 07-19-2015, 08:05 AM   #223
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Yep^ I agree.
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Old 07-19-2015, 11:16 AM   #224
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That's how it was 'splained to me.
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Old 07-19-2015, 04:17 PM   #225
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To start with the common ground: I'm glad we all agree that the Scotchlok quick splice is an abomination. Even if it is made by 3M!

It seems that our thoughts have somewhat passed each other. The scenario I meant to discourage is one like the following: a single stranded conductor tinned then inserted to some mechanical terminal. Maybe crimped into a ring or spade terminal, maybe inserted to a terminal block or placed under a screw, etc. Generally, such technique supposes that the tinned stranded wire is equivalent to a solid wire. The trouble there is that the solder adds bulk, but it is soft. It can deform until what was once a firm connection becomes loose. I would view individually/separately tinned and subsequently wire-nutted conductors the same way.

The above becomes a very different scenario if the crimp is done first and solder applied second. IMHO that makes for a reliable joint, especially since most of us would be working with crimp tools that lack the perfect die for the particular wire and terminal and so the crimp isn't the best.

Your method is different from the above (thanks for sharing it in more detail!). Because the conductors are twisted and soldered together, not merely tinned separately, and with the added bonus of a wire nut exerting some spring compression on the joint, it sounds like a very secure connection.

I confess: I didn't quite understand the part about the tape pulling the wire nut in both directions. Does that mean toward and away from the conductors (axially)? Or does it mean in a twisting direction, to ensure the tension on the stretched tape isn't working to unscrew the wire nut..?

Is there a reason why you wouldn't use shrink tube? I don't recall ever finding something that had been taped years earlier and thinking "wow, this tape is in great shape!" It seems that with time and temperature the adhesive always goes gooey and slippery and the tape loosens. I haven't seen that yet with shrink tube, especially the adhesive-lined or thick-walled types.
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Old 07-19-2015, 04:30 PM   #226
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The tape going both ways on the wire nut is to keep it from twisting either way.

Shrink tube is nice.

I only use 3m super33 tape for wiring. It stays put and stays pliable.
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Old 07-19-2015, 07:59 PM   #227
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Dude,
You come on here and haven't even said high in like years

Hope all is good, I actually started LaTortuga last night...felt good...must hit the road

What you "been do'in' Willis"?
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Old 07-19-2015, 09:41 PM   #228
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Work mostly. Church softball league, kids functions, etc... But mostly, I work at a computer all day and never feel like getting online once I'm home. I'll try to be less of a stranger in the future.

Congrats on getting started on the 'tuga! Hope everything goes as smoothly as it has for me.
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Old 03-01-2016, 03:50 PM   #229
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Work is ramping back up on Ludicrous Speed!

On tap between now and multiple summer trips:
Bathroom construction
Fresh water tanks and supply
waste water tanks
Proper Propane plumbing for range
12V lighting for kitchen and bathroom
Cabinet with doors over sink
Cabinet doors on pantry
Generator and related

Lets see how far we get this year!
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Old 03-05-2016, 05:44 PM   #230
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Are you going to use PEX tubing on your water set up? Id recomend it, even though I haven't started on my Skoolie yet, I have re-plumbed a new shower and icemaker line in the main bathroom in my house, along with the "Sharkbite" compression fittings, that stuff is absolutely amazing!

The compression fittings are a little pricey but so are the ring and barbed fittings for pex tubing. Not to mention the crimping tool you will most likely use for this project alone! I found a 30' section of used pex with fittings in it in a RV salvage yard it had about 25 fittings on it including the water valves for the sinks and shower. Soaked'em in vinegar to get the old calcium off, and pow, $100 worth of fittings for $20!

Looking forward to more pics and posts!

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