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09-30-2014, 10:55 AM
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#21
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 25
Year: 1980
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: Catapiller
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Re: Margarit The Bus
Okay, just want to be clear, because I am sort of confused . What you are saying is that I should put the ceiling panels back in and then cut through it all? to give it structure?
Let me know if this is what you meant, or perhaps a clearer idea of what you suggest.
Thank you so much for the help and the information on making sure the bus is flat! I would not have known that!
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12-04-2014, 03:23 PM
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#22
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 25
Year: 1980
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: Catapiller
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Re: Margarit The Bus
Hey All!!
Had a big break on the bus since I've been in school, but now I am working with a welder to mount the camper shell to the top. He is rocking it out and expects to be done in the next few weeks. He is building a box out of steel, then rivetting the camper to it, then the whole thing to the bus, then cutting out the inside ceiling panel. This will help with the structure so it doesn't wobble or bend.
I am also going to be doing a pop up for above the shower soon, still in confusion and getting that all sorted. Gotta get my dad on board to help build that part. All around, we woke up this morning going...HOLY ****! THIS PROJECT IS HUGE!!
So i am going to be on winter break coming up soon from school and will have much more time to spend on Margarit. We have decided we will put the insulation in after these two projects, (going to use wool insulation) then will put the metal cieling back in, and screw wood to the cieling after that for a nice wooden interior look.
I got inspired last night by this bus and decided we are going for something like this.
http://teenytinyliving.blogspot.com/201 ... n-bus.html
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12-04-2014, 08:23 PM
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#23
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,231
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
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Re: Margarit The Bus
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO rock wool!!!! it adsorbs water (not absorbs) and leads to rust and mold. Further, since rock wool requires not being compacted in place, its R value is minimal unless it is like 6" thick. Do without a frig and toilet but don't cheap out on insulation. My two cents worth. Jack
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12-05-2014, 03:00 PM
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#24
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 25
Year: 1980
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: Catapiller
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Re: Margarit The Bus
Hey! I'm not using rock wool, I am actually using something like this below. This is pretty different than rockwool insulation. Anyone know about/use any wool insulation like this below?
http://www.oregonshepherd.com/
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12-05-2014, 06:06 PM
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#25
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Re: Margarit The Bus
I'd stay away from anything capable of holding moisture inside the walls --- the skin will "sweat" with normal daily temperature swings and if the condensation has anything at all to go into...it tends to stay and build up...and mold...and mildew...and rust. Closed cell foam or any such non-hydraulic material is your best bet.
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12-06-2014, 06:22 AM
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#26
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: southwest lowsyana
Posts: 542
Year: 1988
Coachwork: ward
Chassis: international
Engine: dt360a
Rated Cap: 65
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Re: Margarit The Bus
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gwenweiss22
Hey! I'm not using rock wool, I am actually using something like this below. This is pretty different than rockwool insulation. Anyone know about/use any wool insulation like this below?
http://www.oregonshepherd.com/
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you may wanna talk to a few sheep.
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12-06-2014, 04:09 PM
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#27
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,231
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
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Re: Margarit The Bus
Frankly, after reading the poop sheet on the product, I'm not all that impressed. For example, what IS the R value they allude to? What is done to the fur to get the lanolin out. In the day, I did some sheep shearing and I'd have to say that the aroma of damp sheep fur is almost as bad as the smell of wet third graders They show the product being used in the nice dry cavity between the walls in typical stick and brick construction. Perhaps it works well in that application. The metal walls of an old school bus are not, try as we may, going to be dry. Also, unless provision is made to poison the dermestid beatles that will find their way into the wool, the wool will be eaten entirely. Just ask any museum keeper what their number one pest is in their collection of animal pelts. While the sheep is OK with being wet etc., its fir is constantly being replaced so it has no worries about dirt, bugs, mold and mildew. Your bus on the other hand will collect dirt and moisture and bugs -- its just the nature of the beast--and sooner or later you will have a bus that smells like a wet third grader and is no longer well insulated. To this specific use of this product given the sparse factual information presented in the poop sheet, the sheep and I both say Baaaaaa. Hope this helps, Jack
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12-23-2014, 07:27 PM
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#28
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 25
Year: 1980
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: Catapiller
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Thank you so much for all the information!! I have been reconsidering, thinking, researching like mad. I have given up on wool insulation. Thank you for saving me the pain. my friend told me to put 3M 4200 sealant in all seams up top and some caulking inside as well on the seams. This will prevent any leaks into the walls. I think I'm going to do this.
I was also thinking about how to prevent prevent the skin from sweating as much...someone suggested doing some latex paint inside on the ceiling, which may help with this factor...any ideas about this?
As of now the frame for the camper shell is built as well as the frame for the skylight which will go above the bathroom. We are going to caulk and rivet it down with some 3m 4200 UV resistant caulk this saturday when we get some clear skies. The frames look awesome.
I'm not sure how to post images with this new format...any help on that? I want to post up the frame photos I have.
Thanks all!!
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12-28-2014, 03:01 AM
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#29
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 15
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I like the wood, but most of the windows would have to go if you plan on being some place hot or cold. Too much energy would be lost through them if your trying to heat or cool your bus. Also the shelves at minimum would need a rail to keep what they are holding as you bounce down the road.
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12-29-2014, 01:15 PM
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#30
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 25
Year: 1980
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: Catapiller
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There's a hole in my bus!
Kipin, I have decided to cover about 1/3 of the windows and make some very serious curtains for the rest of the time. I live in northern California, which is pretty moderate most of the year. I am not too concerned. We don't intend to drive her a lot, just park and stay and a few big road trips. I agree about the rail, the folks with that one in the photos are more of a park and stay kind of skoolie too.
We just cut out a 6x8 hole in the ceiling and mounted the frame for the camper shell with tons of rivets and Caulking. It is coming along really well. Getting the camper shell up there tomorrow! Can't wait. It is feeling so different and exciting already!
Next phase, insulation in ceiling!
check out the photos below.
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12-29-2014, 01:16 PM
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#31
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 25
Year: 1980
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: Catapiller
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The smaller frame there is for a skylight above the shower/tub.
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12-29-2014, 01:34 PM
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#32
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Lookin' good guys! --- Can't wait to see the second story in place.
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12-30-2014, 12:49 AM
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#33
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Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 170
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Ambitious build. I like it.
__________________
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/showthread.php?t=9883 - 7.3L 4x4 Shuttle Bus Toyhauler conversion
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01-17-2015, 06:04 PM
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#34
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 25
Year: 1980
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: Catapiller
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Well, lots happening with this lady over here. We have her skylight and camper shell mounted, the bathtub (more like a shower) just arrived and I'm avidly searching for a wood stove and kitchen stove. It just rained over here (Sonoma County,CA) and so I was able to see where some leaks are before I insulate. AWESOME! I am pretty damn grateful for the rain right now. Better now than when I've got my roof panelling in!
When we cracked into the roof some of the overlaying seams cracked a bit. I just bought a ton of caulking used for boats (thanks Guisepi for the tip!) and am going to go on top of the roof and seal up all the seams up there. The skylight and camper make it feel so amazing and different in there. It is coming alive! SO damn excited, I think about it day and night and night and day. (you have no idea what I'm talking about...right? )
Below are some photos, kind of hard to capture what it feels like in there, but you get the idea. Next steps, seal up everything on roof, decide on what kind of insulation I am going to use, then insulate it, and put up the roof panels!
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01-11-2016, 07:11 PM
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#35
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Sonoma County, CA
Posts: 25
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Hey man! Good looking build. Hope it didn't end and fall out! Where in Santa Rosa are you? I'm in Rohnert Park!
Hope the bus build going well!
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01-11-2016, 08:11 PM
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#36
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 25
Year: 1980
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: Catapiller
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Hey! Still working on Margarit!
Hey! I am still working on her... Too late to turn back now! I have not posted in a while, but will be posting photos soon. Let's see each other's buses! My email is gwenweiss22@gmail shoot me an email.
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03-06-2016, 03:43 PM
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#37
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 25
Year: 1980
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: Catapiller
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Window leak MANIA! HELP!
Hey Folks.
I am still going over here in Nor-cal. Getting a lot of rain, and thinking to myself I might take a different route than I was planning about the windows. Almost every single window is leaking, even though I have caulked them all numerous times. I have been pretty frustrated...and then currently pretty calm and figuring it out. I was planning on covering up a few windows. Now I am considering taking out all the windows, spending the time to put sheet metal over all the windows and then adding quite a few other windows that are leak free! I have some questions...I have a 1980 33 foot Thomas Built deisel pusher with a Cat engine. She is great, but old, and windows DONT want to stop leaking.
1. Is it possible to put any other kind of windows into a bus, or do I need RV windows? Will other windows break when I drive them? I'd like as much natural light as I can get. Any leads on websites or people to call for new windows? Inexpensive...if possible? But quality is more important.
2. Is there any great way to get super old bus windows to stop leaking? Like a fool proof way? The leaks are coming in at numerous places. Where the frames meet the bus, where the window meets the frame, where the window slide splits... Each window is improving as I've been working nearly non stop on it, but we just got a storm and it got soaked in there.
3. Does anyone with an older bus have a good experience of leaving the windows in? Or do I need to stop being niave and just remove the windows?
Well, if anyone has any ideas, thoughts please holler back at me!
In the mean time, here is where I am at currently in the bus. In photos below...
The photo attachement thing keeps not working, a few posted...So, I'll have to do that later. I do have an instagram account that I update all the time... it's MagicBusLife
Thank you for reading!
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03-06-2016, 04:03 PM
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#38
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 25
Year: 1980
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: Catapiller
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Heres some more photos!
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03-06-2016, 05:57 PM
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#39
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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The design of windows varies greatly. Some just leak, and I've gotten rid of one bus for that very reason. Didn't like the way that one drove either.
If insulation concerns you at all you'll need better windows in my opinion, not to mention getting away from the leaking.
Personally I've bought RV windows from the junk yard as opposed to something from Lowe's or Home Depot made for a stick built house.
On the other hand people on this site seem to have used household windows with great success. The household windows seem to be fine with good stout steel frames to minimize flexing.
Here in NW Oregon I've lived in this bus for the past several months during the coldest part of the year. My bus windows haven't leaked but they do seem to suck the heat out of this tin can, and during freezing weather it takes an impressive amount of heat to be comfortable. Then again due to timing this is a completely natural bus without added insulation at this time, so there in lies the problem during this winter.
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03-06-2016, 07:48 PM
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#40
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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My windows leak horribly and always have since they were pretty much new, I'm sure.
Panel over that leaky mess and spend the money to go with insulated, screened RV windows and you'll be so much better off in the long run.
Stuff like this can be the difference between having a "burning man bus" and a real HOME on wheels, IMO.
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