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Old 01-29-2011, 01:01 PM   #11
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Looks like you have a great start...and again welcome! Unless I missed it, it looks like your bathroom would be on the passenger side. I don't know if that would be a problem, but it seems that most people put them on the driver's side. I think that has to do with holding tank location and dumpsites. I might be wrong, but I think a vast majority are on the driver's side. I'm not that far along in my conversion, but I do plan to put my stool on the driver's side...I'm sure I had a "reason" for it! Like I said, I might be wrong and I'm sure someone will correct me if I am!!

Good luck on the rest of your conversion!
Ben.
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Old 01-29-2011, 01:44 PM   #12
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Thanks Ben.

We decided the keep the side door usable. Between that and the wheel well position, the layout worked out more to our likening with the bathroom on the passenger side. I haven't gotten all the details worked out yet but my plan is to of course have the black water tank on the passenger side directly beneath the toilet and the grey water tank of the driver side. The sewer hook up(s) will be on the driver. It might not be as straight forward as having both tanks on the driver side but I think it will work out. The freshwater tank will also be on the driver side, I'm considering putting it under the bunks.
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Old 04-20-2011, 06:03 PM   #13
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

I haven't posted in a while, between the family having the flu and work I haven't gotten to do as much as I would have liked to. But progress has been made. I have skinned the windows, 3 on the driver's side and 5 on the passenger side. Here's a shot of the passenger side;


Eventually I'll paint it the same olympic white as the rest of the bus and the screw heads won't show as much.

Here's a couple of pictures from the inside of the plywood, brackets and caulk.




And one with some insulation, this is the passenger side.


On the outside I added 1/4 inch plywood, glued and screwed to the 1/2 inch plywood, to bring the surface flush with the exterior metal. I used Bostik 1100 FS to glue the filon to the wood and metal and then screwed the filon to the metal between and below the windows. http://www.bostik-us.com/files/tdsfiles/1100FS.pdf It worked well, it has good initial adhesion and about a 90 minute work time.

The screws are probably overkill but better safe then sorry and they match the rivets used on the exterior. Overall, I'm happy with the results. I think the plywood and filon way is good for someone like me who doesn't have metal working experience. It wasn't expensive, I spent less then $350 for the filon remnant and the glue. I had to buy a whole case of the glue and I have half of it left which I can use to put up the FRP in the bath.

Other then that I have started painting the overhead. Spend a lot of time prepping. Still needs a second coat. Having the flu didn't stop me from ordering a lot of stuff, cork flooring, jack knife couch, captain's chairs and pedestals, skylight and a few other minor parts.

Now that everyone is back to health, hopefully I'll be getting more time to work on the bus.
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Old 06-21-2011, 05:19 PM   #14
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

A lot to catch up on, finished the interior paint, subflooring is in, the walls have been furred out, wiring has been installed and both skylights are installed. Pictures of all will be coming soon but right now I have some pictures of how I installed the skylights in place of the rescue hatches.

I got the skylights from E Z Tops. http://www.rvskylight.com/rvskylights.htm

The curb of the rescue hatch is 24 5/16" X 24 5/16", OD so I bought the 23" x 23" x 5" high skylight with a 1-1/2" wide flat flange ( 26" x 26" OD ).
http://www.rvskylight.com/rvskylight23.00x23.00.htm



Here's the parts for one skylight:
4 31" Gray Composite Deck Balusters
16 Self Drilling Screws Panhead Phillips 10 x 1
10 foot of 1/8" x 1 1/4" aluminum angle
8 2" deck screws
1 tube Urethane sealant/glue ( I used Bostik 1100 Fast Set)
Peel & Seal 6" X 25' Aluminum Roof Repair tape
styrofoam sheet insulation

Here's the composite lumber frame assembled with a little urethane and the deck screws.



Dry fit the frame over the rescue hatch curb to be sure. While you have it in place make a template of the space between the outside of the hatch curb and the inside of the frame corner. Make another of the outside of the hatch curb and the outside of the frame corner.
Use the urethane to glue the skylight to the frame. Miter the aluminum angle to fit over the flange. Use the self drilling screws to attach the angle to the edge os the frame, not through the top so as not to go through the skylight flange.



Use more urethane to seal the angle.



Use the inside corner template to cut the styrofoam to fill the corner spaces and use the outside corner template to cut the roof repair tape. Cut the styrofoam ans tape slightly large so as to get a tight fit on the corners when you put it in place.



Put the styrofoam in place, stick the roof repair tape over it and staple in place. Once the urethane is dry it is ready to install. I'll add picture of the skylight in place and secured soon.
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Old 06-22-2011, 07:58 AM   #15
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Nice work on building the skylights...looking forward to seeing them installed.
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Old 06-23-2011, 07:57 PM   #16
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Here's one of the skylights in place. I secured it using the holes left by the hinge mechanism.


A closer look at one of the holes, it was raised around the edge but I took it down with a dremel before forcing the skylight down.


I used some of the washers that were used to hold the windows in place. I have a lot from the eight windows that were skinned. The washer covers the hole and gives a more finished look. I used 2" oval head screws. They are long enough to go through the plactic hatch curb and about in inch into the composite wood frame.



A couple of shots of the roof.




I got them in just in time, we had our first heavy rain in weeks the leaky hatch is gone.
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Old 06-24-2011, 07:46 AM   #17
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Nicely done.
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Old 06-24-2011, 11:06 AM   #18
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Those really came out well. I'll bet it lets a lot of light into the bus.
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Old 06-24-2011, 05:36 PM   #19
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Great start. And if you are looking for some killer adhesives for metal, Google "Sika". They make a wide range of industrial grade sealants and adhesives for the auto & airline folks that are stronger than rivets or even welding. I used one of their products on a 40' BB years ago and the results were outstanding.
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Old 06-26-2011, 08:41 PM   #20
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Just a couple of pictures of the 2 x 3 framing and the wiring.



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