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Old 01-03-2012, 08:36 PM   #31
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Year: 1995
Coachwork: Carpenter
Engine: International T444E
Rated Cap: 71
Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

The brake lines have been fixed, we found 3 differnt leaks before it was all over and replaced 3 lines. But now everything is holding, no fluid loss, no brake alarm.

I was able to get the water supply lines roughed in. I chose CPVC, I'm familiar with it and had some around already. I also got the main vent/drain in.
I put a little faom around it to seal up any holes and guess I put too much. I turned into something from "The Abyss".


I put in a 120V 20 gallon water heater. Put a valve in the cold feed line so that when closed the back flow from the tank will feed the toilet. Also added a tee and valve to the hot output so that it can be opened to vent the tank for the back flow.






Also, put in the forward bunk wall and the sink base.

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Old 02-06-2012, 06:48 PM   #32
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

My helper.

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Old 02-07-2012, 06:37 PM   #33
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Year: 1995
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

I may have gotten carried away with the number of circuits I used.




I ended up with 7 15A and 5 20A.
The 20 amps are; Rear A/C recepticle, Front A/C outlet, 20Gal Water Heater, Refrigerator outlet, and Appliance outlet (microwave/toaster oven).
The 15 amps are lights, regular utility outlet and 1 external GFI and 1 bathroom GFI.

That was a whole lot of wire tinning that I'm glad to be done with. Only thing left to do on electrical is find a good way to connect the chassis ground. Any suggestions? Does it matter where it is connected? Should I just put a bolt trough one of the holes in one of the main beams and attach the ground to that? Or can I use a self-tapping screw to connect it to one of the floor supports?
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Old 02-08-2012, 01:44 AM   #34
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Quote:
Originally Posted by mchunt
Just a couple of pictures of the 2 x 3 framing and the wiring.



Were these vertical studs screwed/lagged from the outside through the window rails? Any adhesive in addition to ?
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Old 02-08-2012, 07:54 AM   #35
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

The vertical studs are each screwed to the stanchions with three counter sunk 2-3/4" Teks screws, from the inside only.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_276838-2191-...3D1&facetInfo=
Then I ran a couple of deck screws up through the horizontal into the bottom of each one or toe screwed into the horizontal.

I didn't use any adhesive, the studs sucked up really tight. I don't think they are going anywhere for a long time but some liquid nails certainly wouldn't hurt anything.
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Old 02-08-2012, 09:57 AM   #36
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

As far as chassis ground, I ran a welding cable which had 1/2 inch diameter copper core (outside diameter almost an inch) the length of the bus, and ran stranded cables in the front, middle and rear, to the frame, the skin, and also to the generator, converter grounds, and the12v and 110v panels covers. I figured this is way overkill. My last busses i did not do this and had no problems, however, i had 100' of this expensive cable...
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Old 02-08-2012, 10:59 AM   #37
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

chev49, Wow, that is much more then I expected to have to do. What did you do on your previous busses?
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Old 02-08-2012, 11:18 AM   #38
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

I just ran one 12v and 110 volt panel ground to frame and skin. and if i remember right i only had one ground fault curcuit in the last one which was a flxible.
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Old 02-08-2012, 11:20 AM   #39
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

See if this helps. Thanks for the link to the fasteners. I still may go metal studs, not sure yet.
http://www.naffainc.com/x/CB2/Elect/250-66.HTM
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Old 02-10-2012, 05:44 PM   #40
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

A few new shots.
From the driver's seat.


From the bedroom looking forward.


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