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Old 01-22-2011, 12:03 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 62
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Carpenter
Engine: International T444E
Rated Cap: 71
Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Hello, I bought a 1995 International Carpenter from BGA Sales and Leasing, they were great to work with. It is a 71 passenger high top, T444E , Allison AT545 automatic, hydraulic brakes and cruise control.

They didn't have to but they delivered it Christmas Eve and since then I have taken out the seats, removed the rear heater, pulled up the rubber floor mats, taken a grinder to the rust and put one coat of primer down. The weather has gotten too cold for a second coat.

Here are some pictures;












Here is my current floor plan, this is the fourth, probably not the last.

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Old 01-24-2011, 02:02 PM   #2
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Year: 1995
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Does anyone know why my pictures aren't showing up? I followed the directions as I understood them, can someone tell me where I went wrong?

That pictures are in the gallery: http://www.skoolie.net/gallery2/v/Sk..._95_Carpenter/

I think they are all of the right size, I don't get any error, they just don't show up in the placeholder.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-24-2011, 02:29 PM   #3
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Make sure all your measurements are correct then lay it out on the floor using duct tape. Then walk around. The space around the rear bed looks too tight... you might want to drop down to a queen... you will gain 12" doing that. Ditto the shower/toilet. Put a box on the floor to mock up the toilet and "take a shower"... step out. How is the floor space there? Easier to change and move boxes and tape than the real thing. But what do I know.
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Old 01-24-2011, 04:52 PM   #4
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Year: 1995
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Engine: International T444E
Rated Cap: 71
Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Lorna, you are right there is only about 11" on each side of the bed to get around it. It will be a platform bed so that there will be more toe room. So far, my wife is insisting on a king, maybe after I get some tape put down, maybe I'll even put the bed platorm in there , she will change her mind.

The bathroom is something I'm still rolling aroud ideas for. My first thought was to make it a bath but I haven't been able to locate a big enought pan, that I could afford. There isn't much I can do the the bath sink since it will built partially over the wheel well. I'll keep trying permutations with the tape layout and see what wroks for us.

It got warm enought yesterday to put the second coat of rustoleum of the floor, I;m glad to be done with that.
The roll of Filon that I ordered from Factory RV Surplus arrived today and I ordered euough butyl tape to e-seat all the windows. So, I'm looking formwrd to getting started with all that.

Thanks for the input.
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Old 01-24-2011, 05:19 PM   #5
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Year: 1995
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Engine: International T444E
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Smitty, thanks for the help, I thought that I had done the exact same thing. I compared the soucre between the message I posted with the images and the one you posted this images and it looks like we get differnt path information in the address bar;

I get;
img src="http://www.skoolie.net/gallery2/v/Skoolies/MCH_95_Carpenter/DSC08888.jpg" alt="Image" />



</div>

and You get:




</div>

Any idea why, am I copying the wrong thing, is it browser (IE 8 for me), OS (XP for me)?

Thanks.
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Old 01-24-2011, 06:44 PM   #6
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Welcome and the bus does look nice
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Old 01-25-2011, 02:31 AM   #7
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

like it its sure big welcome here ! oh man yer gonna be busy
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Old 01-25-2011, 09:30 AM   #8
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Smitty,
It turned out to be IE related. No matter what I tried to do in IE to get the URL, it wouldn't work. So, I decided to try FireFox. When I right clicked on a photo and selected "View Image", the path that I get works.
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Old 01-26-2011, 02:08 PM   #9
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

My Filon and my butyl tape have been delivered, so this weekend I hope to remove all the windows, skin over some and re-caulk the rest. I plan on removing and skinning over 5 windows on the starboard side (closet, bathroom and refrigerator) and 3 on the port side (bunks). I've read every post on this site that I could find about skinning and think I've got as much info as I'm going to. If anyone has any experience with Filon or FRP, I'd appreciate any tips or hints.

I'm trying to get everything dried in before I start putting in any walls and interior fixtures. I've seen evidence of what look like leaks from around the windows and hopefully the butyl tape will seal those. Other then the windows the only other leak that I know of is the rear escape hatch, my plan is to replace both escape hatches with dome skylights.

I have a question about the subfloor. Is it better to cut holes for the electrical and plumbing through the steel before putting down the plywood or does it matter?
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Old 01-28-2011, 06:55 PM   #10
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 62
Year: 1995
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Engine: International T444E
Rated Cap: 71
Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Thanks everyone for being so welcoming!

Quote:
I would cut holes last thing, and here's why. You certainly can rough-in electrical, plumbing, HVAC, etc....it's done every day. BUT be darned sure your dimensions are perfect, or you'll be relocating holes, and left patching the ones in the wrong location(s). You'd have to know exact location of walls, finished walls, etc, and most don't go to that extent. You may need to shift a wall one way or the other, find-out you've decided to change something, etc. Insulate/sheet your floor, frame your walls, and go from there (rough-in your mechanical), same as building a house.

Smitty
That makes sense, I guess I should be mindful of the location of the metal floor joists under the decking when I position things like the toilet and the shower pan.

Quote:
looks like your bathroom sink is really big unless I'm not sensing the scale properly.
That isn't to scale. The software I used for the floor plan has a pretty limited library of fixtures. That is more of a place holder for a built in vanity that will partially cover the wheel well.

Quote:
I like the idea of skylights to replace your leaky escape hatches, but I would think also about including a venting fan on one of them to help get heat out in a hurry, or at least a skylight that opens.
That's a great idea. The forward escape hatch doesn't leak, so I'll probably leave that one in place for now. I've already disconnected the buzzer so that I can put the front edge up to act like an air scoop when driving. I will definitely look in to a vent with a fan.

I was planning to skin some windows this weekend. I'm not sure if that is going to happen now. I bought a 57" x 144" sheet of Filon from Factor RV Surplus http://www.factoryrvsurplus.com/index.php. I rolled it out a weighted it down last night but it still has some serious curl to it. I have no idea how long it will take to flatten out. Maybe I need to heat it up a little? But i don't think it is going to be flat enough to work with this weekend.

At first I was considering using Stabond to glue the Filon directly onto the metal uprights between the windows and then screwing it down with panhead screws. But then in almost every example that I found the Filon was glued to luan so that made me think that I should laminate it to the luan and then screw that to the uprights. That doesn't seem right because then I would need to waterproof the edges of the luan.

I've seen one or two examples where plywood was cut to fit the window opening then installed so that they are flush with the outside. Then the siding is glued on top. To me that seems the way to go. More work but stronger and more water tight in the long run. Is that the best way to do it? Is there an other alternative that I haven't seen?

Originally I wasn't planning on adding any insulation to the floor but after reading so much on the topic in the forum, I've been reconsidering. Maybe i should quit reading before I completely blow the budget. My plan for loor insulation was to use glue down cork flooring over the plywood and that's it. Now I think it might be worthwhile to put down a coat or two of paint with the ceramic bead additive in it. I've heard it works pretty well. Has anyone used it on the floor?
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