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Old 07-06-2015, 10:42 AM   #31
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Location: Eustis FLORIDA
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Canadian decency at work, eh?
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Old 07-07-2015, 06:10 PM   #32
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Canadian decency at work, eh?
Something like that, EH!
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Old 07-07-2015, 06:23 PM   #33
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Well I found a near miss and a hit with screws,it's been leaking for a while. Stuck a screw back in the hole until I get my fittings tomorrow in order to remove completely, also a filter that should've been replace a while ago.
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Old 07-08-2015, 12:04 PM   #34
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So I started to make a custom shifter knob for the Mule Bus. Started with a bock of aluminum 3"x1.5", drilled, cut, hacked, shaved, tapped, sanded 'til I got to this, a little more shaving and sanding....but it's a start. The head I found on EBAY along with the hood ornament.
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Old 07-08-2015, 03:52 PM   #35
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Made me laff my "ass" off.

Sweet...now go chrome it!
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Old 07-08-2015, 05:29 PM   #36
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Your heaters look like they were set up like mine. Are you removing the rear heater? If so, remove the cover and look at the main heater core next to the drivers seat. My guess is that you DON'T want to loop the coolant lines together after removing the rear heater. Depending on the heater core you may want to plug the lines instead.

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Old 07-08-2015, 09:02 PM   #37
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Rated Cap: 6 passenger 2 ATV's
Yes, more or less the lay out, shut off valve at your left foot. I figured just continue the loop, by-passing the the rear heater? Plug/cap it instead, why? I'm mechanically inclined but not a mechanic.
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Old 07-08-2015, 09:12 PM   #38
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Crawled under the bus for a tranny check,

Fuller FS-5205A/B ...5 SPEED

Any body, yay/nay?
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Old 07-08-2015, 09:28 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jazty View Post
Your heaters look like they were set up like mine. Are you removing the rear heater? If so, remove the cover and look at the main heater core next to the drivers seat. My guess is that you DON'T want to loop the coolant lines together after removing the rear heater. Depending on the heater core you may want to plug the lines instead.

Quote:
Originally Posted by REDD View Post
Yes, more or less the lay out, shut off valve at your left foot. I figured just continue the loop, by-passing the the rear heater? Plug/cap it instead, why? I'm mechanically inclined but not a mechanic.
First off, you want to be absolutely sure that your heater core has copper tees coming off of it like mine does. If so then looping the coolant lines will create a path of least resistance for the antifreeze so will be limiting the amount of hot antifreeze that actually goes through the heater core. Most of the coolant will flow through the loop and not even enter the heater core. Plugging off the lines will force ALL of the antifreeze through the heater core, producing maximum heat (can still be controlled by the heater valve). That heater is also the primary defrost for the windshield. Max heat for that purpose is a good thing.
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Old 07-17-2015, 07:00 PM   #40
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Rated Cap: 6 passenger 2 ATV's
Thanks Jazty, that's what I have and that's what I'll do tomorrow. Got the parts just need a little time, seems work has gotten in the way of my project.IMG_3659.JPG

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All I got done was blacking out the windows, first five windows are limo tint and the back six windows are solid black vinyl from a sign shop. Also started grinding/sanding/wire wheeling the paint and rust inside.
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This was from another thread....Turns out the tools I thought were made in Canada were made in West Germany, found a couple of wire cups that have been around for over 25 years in a drawer. The tags on the tools are so worn out all I can read is something Canada on one of them......Dist. in Canada I guess.
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