Mullet's Thunder Bus Build

[david.dgeorge07]

Looks like good work on the floor! I remember it being very satisfying to get that primer down! I used to have a Metro as well! 5 speed 3 cylinder. Growly little motor that would ping easily, but reliable and cheap to operate! It was my first car that didn't feel like it might give up the ghost at any moment!

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07

Looks like good work on the floor! I remember it being very satisfying to get that primer down! I used to have a Metro as well! 5 speed 3 cylinder. Growly little motor that would ping easily, but reliable and cheap to operate! It was my first car that didn't feel like it might give up the ghost at any moment!

David.
I keep wanting to ask this.
I had a friend that worked construction around me on the bases around NC and his name was/is David Degeorge? Haven't seen him in a few years?
If it is then you might recognize this signature?
MDRAMSEYAC.
Regardless what we have are projects that will never quite be completed but at least we know every aspect of what we have done.

[Johnny Mullet]

The primer is totally dry. I am thinking about using FlexSeal or something around those wheel wells just for extra protection against water. I do have a question about the subfloor. I was going to use 5/8 OSB, but everyone tells me plywood is the only way to go because of water. I thought that the OSB you get today is the primary choice in construction because it is actually sealed to protect from water except where you cut it.

[david.dgeorge07]

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223

David.

I keep wanting to ask this.

I had a friend that worked construction around me on the bases around NC and his name was/is David Degeorge? Haven't seen him in a few years?

If it is then you might recognize this signature?

MDRAMSEYAC.

Regardless what we have are projects that will never quite be completed but at least we know every aspect of what we have done.

Huh, I guess the world is big enough for several David Georges! I don't think I'm the same guy...


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[Rusty]

Originally Posted by Johnny Mullet

I was going to use 5/8 OSB, but everyone tells me plywood is the only way to go because of water. I thought that the OSB you get today is the primary choice in construction because it is actually sealed to protect from water except where you cut it.

Few extra bucks for good plywood. Prime (paint) both sides while outside the bus. The $5 mistake cans by the mixing counter are good for this job.

[Robin97396]

I think someone used marine plywood several years ago.

Partical board, or OSB, is much better than it was years ago. Personally I don't use it because of the way it was made 40 years ago and its issues with water. Most of us don't want to take a chance on needing to do the floor again because we saved a couple bucks during the build. Marine ply was certainly more money than I wanted to spend. Regular ply was affordable.

I do spill water sometimes, then there's the condensation issue. Good normal plywood works out well.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Johnny Mullet

The primer is totally dry. I am thinking about using FlexSeal or something around those wheel wells just for extra protection against water. I do have a question about the subfloor. I was going to use 5/8 OSB, but everyone tells me plywood is the only way to go because of water. I thought that the OSB you get today is the primary choice in construction because it is actually sealed to protect from water except where you cut it.

Bus interiors sweat. I'd avoid the osb. ANd instead of "flex seal" try some seam sealer. "sealant" paints are just a band aid, I'd fix whatever leaks.

[Tango]

My floor is all marine ply (thank goodness it's a shorty!). Between sweating and leaks, I'm a believer in trying to make the foundation as waterproof as possible before building a lot of stuff on top of it.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Tango

My floor is all marine ply (thank goodness it's a shorty!). Between sweating and leaks, I'm a believer in trying to make the foundation as waterproof as possible before building a lot of stuff on top of it.

Me too. The good stuff is worth paying for.

[Johnny Mullet]

The problem I am faced with is I am 6' tall and the ceiling is 6' 2" tall. I want to insulate, but not concerned with a lot of insulation. Thinking thin foam board under 5/8 or 3/4 plywood, but not sure what to use as the main floor surface. Been searching the boards here for a week.

[Tango]

Still about the best finish for keeping water out of wood?

Old fashioned shellac. Roll or spray 2-3 coats and it will do the trick better than any of the new fangled poly-whatevers. And given that it won't be out in the sun should outlast the tin that it is carried around in.

But...you still can't beat marine grade as plywood goes.

[Rusty]

Originally Posted by Tango

Still about the best finish for keeping water out of wood?

Old fashioned shellac.

I feel like getting shellacked tonight... long week already.

[Johnny Mullet]

My first order from Amazon came in today. This bus is being built to be 100% comfortable off grid, so when there is no shore power for A/C, then you need a good ventilation system.....

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Johnny Mullet

My first order from Amazon came in today. This bus is being built to be 100% comfortable off grid, so when there is no shore power for A/C, then you need a good ventilation system.....

You're gonna LOVE that! I got one sitting in the box for my bus, too.
The one in my work van is great.

[Johnny Mullet]

Tomorrow I am picking up material to lay the sub-floor, but I have an issue. I am not raising the roof and headroom is an issue. I am 6' tall and the roof is 6'2" tall. I had no wood floor to remove, so any floor I add will reduce head room and I don't want to stoop. After a week of searching this board, I have came up with 2 options on my floor. Insulation is not the most important thing in my book because we will not be in cold climates when we start our journey. Actually, the ceiling and walls have decent insulation from the build. I am not trying to cheap out on dropping the walls and ceiling. I am just saying that when vacationing or going full time, we will not be in cold or extremely hot climates.

Option #1 is to lay 3/4" plywood right on top of the steel floor. This will give me headroom, but no insulation. I am not sure if I should screw it down to the steel floor or not.

Option #2 is to lay rosin paper on the steel, lay 1/4" foam board, and then 1/2" or 3/4" plywood on top with screws or no screws (not sure) and this will cause minimal loss with at least some kind of moisture barrier.

What would you do? I was also thinking that a nice plywood sub-floor with nice looking panels would not need a covering if you just sand and seal it or try out the "Burnt Plywood" look with a hand torch.

[Twigg]

Originally Posted by Johnny Mullet

Tomorrow I am picking up material to lay the sub-floor, but I have an issue. I am not raising the roof and headroom is an issue. I am 6' tall and the roof is 6'2" tall. I had no wood floor to remove, so any floor I add will reduce head room and I don't want to stoop. After a week of searching this board, I have came up with 2 options on my floor. Insulation is not the most important thing in my book because we will not be in cold climates when we start our journey. Actually, the ceiling and walls have decent insulation from the build. I am not trying to cheap out on dropping the walls and ceiling. I am just saying that when vacationing or going full time, we will not be in cold or extremely hot climates.

Option #1 is to lay 3/4" plywood right on top of the steel floor. This will give me headroom, but no insulation. I am not sure if I should screw it down to the steel floor or not.

Option #2 is to lay rosin paper on the steel, lay 1/4" foam board, and then 1/2" or 3/4" plywood on top with screws or no screws (not sure) and this will cause minimal loss with at least some kind of moisture barrier.

What would you do? I was also thinking that a nice plywood sub-floor with nice looking panels would not need a covering if you just sand and seal it or try out the "Burnt Plywood" look with a hand torch.

You are stuck with some solutions that are all going to be compromises.

You don't need to install a vapor barrier. You already have one, a steel floor.

You also know we are going to say "Raise the Roof". Let's just get that out of the way early because it really is the only solution that takes care of the insulation properly. Some have sprayed foam under the floor, but that is problematic too although Blue Bird did it at the factory for Bookmobiles. They sprayed before the body was bolted to the chassis.

If you really do have to work with what you've got, try 1/2" foamboard and 1/2" plywood on the floor. That at least insulates some. That combination will be perfectly fine to walk on, and to build on but to finish it off you will want to add a flooring finish. In your case I'd go with vinyl flooring as it's very thin.

You don't need to screw anything down. You can lightly glue the foamoard to the floor, and the plywood to the foamboard leaving you with basically a floating floor. It will be happily held in place by the stuff you build on top.

Then you should remove the walls and ceiling and add at least 1 1/2" of foamboard, or sprayfoam under whatever final wall and ceiling covering you choose.

Insulation is for both hot and cold. It makes it cheaper and more comfortable inside for AC and heating, but such a low ceiling makes it tough for taller people.

[Robin97396]

Option 3; Learn to walk with your knees buckled a little or learn to stoop over like us old guys.

I have the OEM plywood on steel with six rows of L-track. I generally have cold feet in the winter because of this floor, but carpeting helps a lot. I intend to keep the L-track because that was a key feature in buying this bus.

What I'm saying is you can get away without insulating the floor. Just don't put in to many layers of carpeting.

[Johnny Mullet]

Today I dropped almost $300 on materials. I got rosin paper, 1/4" insulation, 10 2x4's, 10 2x2's, and 6 sheets of 5/8" plywood. I also got some tape, liquid nails, and construction screws to build my battery/electrical box behind the driver's seat. Updates later.

[david.dgeorge07]

Originally Posted by Johnny Mullet

Today I dropped almost $300 on materials. I got rosin paper, 1/4" insulation, 10 2x4's, 10 2x2's, and 6 sheets of 5/8" plywood. I also got some tape, liquid nails, and construction screws to build my battery/electrical box behind the driver's seat. Updates later.

Make sure to post photos of your progress. I am interested to see how your battery box works. Are you planning to connect your house battery to your starting batteries so they will charge as your vehicle is running?

[Johnny Mullet]

Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07

Make sure to post photos of your progress. I am interested to see how your battery box works. Are you planning to connect your house battery to your starting batteries so they will charge as your vehicle is running?

The truck batteries will be completely separate from the house batteries. The house batteries will be charged by mostly 200 watt solar panels or battery charger via 110V plugin if the sun fails me. This main box will house the batteries on the inside along with a 2000 watt power inverter, bus bar, and 12v fuse box. The outside face of the box will be as tall as the driver's seat and contain an 8 gang (water pump, 12v outlets, interior lights, porch light, stereo, etc) switch panel, LCD power meter, 12V socket, USB socket, stereo system, etc. The 12V TV/DVD combo will go on top of this box.

I will post photos. I got this all in my head and nothing written down, but that's how I roll.