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Old 09-03-2016, 11:44 PM   #21
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 543
Ordered a "Y" and muffler from Walker Exhaust. It is for a 1980 bus. Hoping it fits (3 + weeks wait if they have it down east). If it doesn't fit I will piece it together to make it fit.

I have not ordered the new tubeless rims yet. No one local has tubeless rims used or new.

Doing a lot of reading online.

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Old 09-03-2016, 11:58 PM   #22
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Trying to figure out the vacuum assisted hydraulic brakes. I want to be able to replace all the steel lines on the frame.

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Old 09-07-2016, 06:02 AM   #23
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Found pdf files of service manual for 1971 medium duty chevrolet C50, C60 trucks 😊 working on the layout of the interior, and the different systems on board.


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Old 09-07-2016, 09:33 AM   #24
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Location: Houston, Texas
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Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Just a note...keeping all the water & plumbing on the driver side makes for much easier installation. And every dump station I have ever seen was set up for that side.
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Old 09-07-2016, 04:09 PM   #25
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Thanks for the advice

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Old 09-18-2016, 08:59 AM   #26
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Woke up to ice on the bus today 😣

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Old 09-21-2016, 07:00 AM   #27
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My new idea of floor plan




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Old 09-24-2016, 02:50 AM   #28
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I don't have an air compressor so I was using a 3/8 drill & a 1/2 impact on the bolts on my floor. Found that the Philips screws where 3/4" long easy to get out. The 1/4" lag bolts I used the impact to remove or break off. I've been thinking of renting the air tools and compressor when I need the use of air tools, but the rental is just under the cost of the air compressor and tools. Might be useful to have on the road as well.

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Old 09-24-2016, 08:24 AM   #29
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Location: Columbus Ohio
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Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
heres the thing with air tools... I once thought how cool iut would be to have them on the road.. and after all my bus has a built in 13 cfm air compressor..

then I realized if im using air tools im probably fixing broken stuff and the bus probably isnt running... so id not get much use and carrying air compressor inside is huge..

other thing was that if im working under the hood there often isnt room to get air tools... if im doing a major teardown im likely not doing that on the road so id be near home where my air compressor is..

I have a 30 gallon harbor freight comopressor I bought 10 years ago.. it works for most jobs but wont keep up if im wire wheeling or grinding tons of stuff..

its uch easier to get 120 volts and have a mild electrric impact wrench and a grinder for conversion work.. an electric impact isnt quite as good as air but its not bad...

cordless ones are worthless.. i have a cordless dewalk grinder and useing the high capacity batteries I can charge as fast as I use them.. but the cordless impact didnt have the torque to take things apart any better than me with a hammer on a wrench or using a breaker bar..

-Christopher
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Old 10-05-2016, 10:57 AM   #30
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Using Sketchup to get my ideas down on paper. https://youtu.be/PfVysbux_iQ
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Old 10-05-2016, 11:56 AM   #31
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Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
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Year: 1997
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Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
the cordless impact didnt have the torque to take things apart any better than me with a hammer on a wrench or using a breaker bar..
Aww man.. That's disappointing to hear. I was considering picking up one of the 20v max impact wrenches up at some point. Which one do you have? I think there are 3 different models.

I was thinking about this one:

DEWALT DCF899B 20V MAX XR Brushless High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench with Detent Anvil


I have a 120v Mastercraft impact wrench which hasn't let me down yet. I can run it just fine off of the inverter, but I sure do like avoiding the extension cord...
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Old 10-05-2016, 12:00 PM   #32
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Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,793
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
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BTW, how'd the exhaust rebuild go Tootalltechie? Any luck there?
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Old 10-05-2016, 01:55 PM   #33
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Location: Houston, Texas
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Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
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My old (pre-China) 110v Milwaukee corded model will take off big rig lug bolts. But you really need to brace yourself or it will break your wrist too.
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Old 10-05-2016, 05:06 PM   #34
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,830
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Quote:
Originally Posted by jazty View Post
Aww man.. That's disappointing to hear. I was considering picking up one of the 20v max impact wrenches up at some point. Which one do you have? I think there are 3 different models.

I was thinking about this one:

DEWALT DCF899B 20V MAX XR Brushless High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench with Detent Anvil


I have a 120v Mastercraft impact wrench which hasn't let me down yet. I can run it just fine off of the inverter, but I sure do like avoiding the extension cord...
I havent tried that one... I had the older version of it from a couple years ago... 18 volt I think.. I have several other dewalt 20 V max products and do find they are better than the predeccesors.. my drill and angle grinder seem good.. and the quickcharge feature of the 20 volt batteries is nice...

-Christopher
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Old 10-05-2016, 06:18 PM   #35
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My sketchup ideas
https://youtu.be/PfVysbux_iQ
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Old 10-16-2016, 08:56 PM   #36
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Drawing plans up for my solar array. I'm planning to use 6 panels fastened to rails that can be tilted toward the sun. i also want to raise my roof 12", and make an arrangement of ribs fastened to the bus at the window frames /body ribs. The ribs will do double duty. Help support the roof raise then support the solar array when done. I'm thinking of using aluminum in the construction. First fasten couple pieces of channel on the outside of the body ribs to hold square tube, a square tube goes from the bottom of the windows up 4' where it meets with a cross member.

Is the aluminum from Home Depot, Princess Auto (our Harbor Fright) a good candidate for this type of construction? I think it is 6063P alloy.

thanks for your input
Gordon
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Old 01-04-2017, 05:26 PM   #37
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I was told by the "government inspection service " if it's in or part of the vehicle it has to work. So I took the dash apart and the wiring raceway down to remove the wires for the "bus" lights.

Started removing ceiling panels. Wondering how to put back structural strength back when I build the interior without replacing the ceiling panels.

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Old 03-29-2017, 05:11 PM   #38
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While reading my service manuals "ST_331_71_1971_Chevrolet_40_60_Medium_Duty_Truck_ Service_Manual" found out that my hydraulic brakes are actually 2 systems. The main controls front and rear, second controls just rear. Now looking at upgrades.

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Old 03-29-2017, 05:17 PM   #39
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,793
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tootalltechie View Post
While reading my service manuals "ST_331_71_1971_Chevrolet_40_60_Medium_Duty_Truck_ Service_Manual" found out that my hydraulic brakes are actually 2 systems. The main controls front and rear, second controls just rear. Now looking at upgrades.

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Did you find the service manual online? If so, why not share the link for future old school skoolies.
I don't know anything about your brakes, but there were some weird hydraulic brakes back in the day. Best of luck to you as you get them fixed up!

I also looked back a couple posts and saw that you had mentioned about purchasing box store aluminum. Be careful when it comes to structural steel or aluminum at those places.. They typically charge several times more than what the material is worth. PG is an industrial type town. You should be able to find a local steel warehouse nearby that has more options for less money.
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Old 03-29-2017, 05:22 PM   #40
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This is where I got my 1971/1972 C60 manuals.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=545416

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