My 2002 Bluebird all American re

[Njsurf73]

Originally Posted by Tango

I have been "told" that if the vehicle has any computer controls at all to disconnect the battery before doing any welding anywhere on the rig. I "know" for a fact that Allison dictates such a disconnect for rigs with any tranny so controlled.

My Allison tech told me he had only sen a couple of cases where welding damage was done to the TCM...but the damage was total. And expensive.

Thanks. I was wondering. I figure I will pop off the cables and be on the safe side. My buddy told me he has never, but he thought you were supposed to lol

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[Tango]

One more argument for a disconnect switch.

[Njsurf73]

Originally Posted by Tango

One more argument for a disconnect switch.

That's on the parts list.
Along with an ignition switch

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[EastCoastCB]

You really should disconnect the batteries when welding on a vehicle.
That said- I NEVER have and haven't ever seen any problems.

[Njsurf73]

Ok, so after the family ride this happened. I already planned on riping it all out and doing it over... But now it's on the to-do sooner list lol


Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[Njsurf73]

Originally Posted by Njsurf73

Ok, so after the family ride this happened. I already planned on riping it all out and doing it over... But now it's on the to-do sooner list lol


Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

It's worse than it looks... And it looks pretty bad lol.
The plan is to use a jack and some plywood to get it back up to where it belongs.
To replace the rotted frame I haven't decided if I am going to use angle or square tubing. I like the idea of angle as I can put one side "up" and not lose any ground clearance at all. I should be able to cut the floor back enough to negate the thickness of the angle on the doors closing.
Will probably run a piece straight across the front, and weld it to the vertical supports already there. Then run another across the width on the bottom corner.
But for the time being I am going to just use some scrap and a few bolts to sure it up so it doesn't hurt itself any. 😂😂😂

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[cadillackid]

what is it? just the frame to the lower compartments? or is it frame rot for the Bus itself?

RE: having a Mains disconnect switch is good for a MECHANICAL bus, but even in the late 90s / early 00's. the bus computers required BAT+ to maintain their memory and learned behaviour... if you were to throw a main disconnect each shut-down, your fuel economy and driveability. would be affected.. even more if you have an allison with a TCM like a 1000 / 2000 / 3000.

disconnecting the batteries when doing welding or any major work on the bus is a good idea.. losing the learned piece of the computer every now and then wont hurt it.. you just dont want a main switch that os thrown every night..

my fully mechanical Bus has a main disconnect... no computers to affect, and it makes sure nothing like a radio or A/C control, etc will drain the batteries..

-Christopher

[Njsurf73]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

what is it? just the frame to the lower compartments? or is it frame rot for the Bus itself?

RE: having a Mains disconnect switch is good for a MECHANICAL bus, but even in the late 90s / early 00's. the bus computers required BAT+ to maintain their memory and learned behaviour... if you were to throw a main disconnect each shut-down, your fuel economy and driveability. would be affected.. even more if you have an allison with a TCM like a 1000 / 2000 / 3000.

disconnecting the batteries when doing welding or any major work on the bus is a good idea.. losing the learned piece of the computer every now and then wont hurt it.. you just dont want a main switch that os thrown every night..

my fully mechanical Bus has a main disconnect... no computers to affect, and it makes sure nothing like a radio or A/C control, etc will drain the batteries..

-Christopher

Just the compartment frame. Not the bus frame. The bus frame is in pretty solid shape. It's got some surface rust but nothing I would worry about in the short term. I will eventually treat it and paint it or coat it with old motor oil/wax

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[Robin97396]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

You really should disconnect the batteries when welding on a vehicle.
That said- I NEVER have and haven't ever seen any problems.

Well, leave the ignition on while you weld.

[Njsurf73]

Originally Posted by Robin97396

Well, leave the ignition on while you weld.

Leave it on?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[tobeamiss]

Congratulations!! I'm happy for you that you finally got your skoolie!! I can't wait to watch your build I've already learned that you disconnect before doing any welding
Good luck to you

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[superdave]

Originally Posted by Robin97396

Well, leave the ignition on while you weld.

ok no problem, electrons travel from point a to point b. run forest run

[Robin97396]

Yes of course I was always told to disconnect the batteries, but that was a long time before diesels had computers. I've seen people weld on vehicles without disconnecting the battery several times with no apparent problems. I'd be more afraid of problems with a computer driven bus.
I suspect leaving the ignition on might make a noticeable difference, and I would only recommend it for the very brave.

[Njsurf73]

Originally Posted by Robin97396

Yes of course I was always told to disconnect the batteries, but that was a long time before diesels had computers. I've seen people weld on vehicles without disconnecting the battery several times with no apparent problems. I'd be more afraid of problems with a computer driven bus.
I suspect leaving the ignition on might make a noticeable difference, and I would only recommend it for the very brave.

Lol. With my luck so far, I don't know which route to take!
Leave them connected and risk frying the 'puter it disconnect them and risk screwing up the 'puter... I will take my chances disconnecting them. The bus has had the battery die probably more than once and came back.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[Robin97396]

On electronically controlled engines I'd definitely go with Christopher's suggestion of letting the computer loose its memory. It will regain the information again.

I think I'm stuck in analog mode.

[Njsurf73]

So I am plus one on the first repair... I was able to get the stub of the broken key out of my ignition with a toothpick and some crazy glue so I took it over to the locksmith and he was able to make me a copy of the key and now I have an ignition key once again. I like to start with a little things and build up confidence rolling towards the bigger projects LOL

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[Robin97396]

Sorry to hear about your trouble. Spare keys are good. I realize that wouldn't get your broken key out.

I like to attach a spare ignition key under my license plate. I drill a hole in the top of the key and put the license plate screw through the hole with the key behind the license plate.

Hedging my bets.

[Njsurf73]

Originally Posted by Robin97396

Sorry to hear about your trouble. Spare keys are good. I realize that wouldn't get your broken key out.

I like to attach a spare ignition key under my license plate. I drill a hole in the top of the key and put the license plate screw through the hole with the key behind the license plate.

Hedging my bets.

I was able to get it out. I took the whole switch out and sat at my kitchen counter and thought... I tried to get plyers in there... Too tight... Tried to use a tiny flat head... No luck... I glued a toothpick to the key with some crazy glue (always keep it in my med kit lol) and I was able to just pull it right out. Took the stub and switch to the locksmith and he was able to make me keys that work perfectly.
Cost me $18.00 total (2 ignition, 2 storage, and a couple of key rings)
A new switch was going to be $16 plus shipping and a few days waiting. So I won this one!

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[Njsurf73]

Oil leak found. I degreased the engine this morning, and found the oil leak. It isn't the front main or the timing cover. It's the side engine or "tappet" cover. It is on the "driver" side in a front engine application. The hard part... It's under the injector pump. Later today I will be scouring YouTube for how to get at it. I have a feeling the vp44 has to come out.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[Njsurf73]

Deconstruction begins

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk