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Old 07-14-2016, 04:56 PM   #11
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Location: Moodus, Ct.
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PRAY you don't have broken exhaust studs.
Unfortunately its common with the 460.
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Old 07-14-2016, 08:25 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by sdwarf36 View Post
PRAY you don't have broken exhaust studs.
Unfortunately its common with the 460.
So what you are saying is I should probably replace them with quality studs? Thanks for this heads up and fingers crossed that is not the case. Pissed I would be!
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Old 07-14-2016, 08:26 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by BusFiend View Post
Without being there, it does seem like a fuel issue...

Start cheap. I would pick up a couple of fuel filters. Depending on how the tank was cleaned, it could have introduced copious amounts of crud into the fuel lines. Filters don't like crud. Swap out the filter(s) and see if that doesn't fix the problem.
Thanks for your reply. Posted this on 3 ford forums and nothing. This place rocks as a community and info for that fact. Fuel filters are on top of my list just due to the fact he said he cleaned the tanks. Will be blowing out the fuel lines too along with a basic tune up though I know the engine is getting spark so that isn't an immediate issue.
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Old 07-14-2016, 09:45 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by 48Mugs View Post
So what you are saying is I should probably replace them with quality studs? Thanks for this heads up and fingers crossed that is not the case. Pissed I would be!
Oh theres no removing them. You will break them if you try. Don't touch them unless you have to.
Theres 2 ways to do the job-and both suck. Trying to drill the broken bolts in vehicle (you have to jack the motor up to get at them-takes days. ) Or pulling the heads+ bring them to a machine shop.
Not trying to scare you-or say bad things about your purchase-But I was the guy in the machine shop. I've done many.
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Old 07-14-2016, 10:23 PM   #15
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Great idea to blow out the fuel lines. That should eliminate any gunk in em from reclogging the filter. Good luck with this, would be nice if it's just clogged up filter
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Old 07-14-2016, 11:05 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by sdwarf36 View Post
Oh theres no removing them. You will break them if you try. Don't touch them unless you have to.
Theres 2 ways to do the job-and both suck. Trying to drill the broken bolts in vehicle (you have to jack the motor up to get at them-takes days. ) Or pulling the heads+ bring them to a machine shop.
Not trying to scare you-or say bad things about your purchase-But I was the guy in the machine shop. I've done many.
oh goodie I shall pray to all the gods and even make some up in hopes this is not a thing I deal with. Thanks!
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Old 07-14-2016, 11:06 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Carytowncat View Post
Great idea to blow out the fuel lines. That should eliminate any gunk in em from reclogging the filter. Good luck with this, would be nice if it's just clogged up filter
So nice. Tomorrow I find out. Keep you all posted. Want to get back to building my bus not fixing it.
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Old 07-15-2016, 09:45 AM   #18
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Engine: DT360
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ive gotten exhaust studs out before.. if they arent broken but need tightened.. I heat the manifold nearly cherry but not the bolt and then slowly i work and turn a little at a time...

if they have broken.. I use a right angle drill and drill a hole in the middle, place an easy out in .. and then heat the Manifold.. and work slowly.. heat turn cool a bit, heat turn, cool a bit... heat too long and turn too hard will break stuff.. its always heat turn cool heat turn cool that has given me an 80-90% success rate on frozen studs or broken ones.. of course if the yare at the back and you cant get a right angle drill in then its yank the head...

-Christopher
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Old 07-17-2016, 04:39 PM   #19
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Quick Update

So I beating my head against the paneling of my bus right now trying to get this thing to start.

First, a little common sense reminder that I failed at: When the guy you are buying your vehicle from says it has a new fuel pump in it, have them show you the paperwork! The fuel pump and unit was rotted and rusted to hell and back as you can see in the picture below:



Next I checked the water seperator: Look yummy!



cleaned out the lines and put a new fuel filter, pump, and assembly in and now I can confirm I am getting fuel (Clean Fuel too) to the engine though I haven't checked the pressure, as I need to get a t-adapter supposedly.

Still won't start, wont even kind of start.

I checked the spark and I think I have really weak spark which may be my problem. I had to pretty much rub the spark plug connector to the engine to get a spark. Couldn't get a real plasma jump.

So I am guess I need a new:

A: Distributor
B: Wires - I have just need to install
C: Coil
D: Ignition module maybe
E : FCK it and do all the above!

Thoughts???


On the up side I got the floors out and fitted some styrofoam to the windows:



No I just need some 12 gauge alum welded in!

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Old 07-17-2016, 05:00 PM   #20
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Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
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Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
My choice would be "E" if your check book permits, for several reasons...

1) Noticeable neglect by previous owner.... If he told you what he did and you can prove he didn't... I would not trust anything he maintains.

2) it gives you a time baseline... You know when you made the repairs, and can base your future maintenance by that.


There was a time I had 3 used suburbans in the driveway... When I suspected a problem part on one that wasn't running, I'd pull the part from good running vehicle, get sick vehicle running, then replace with new part on donor vehicle.
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