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Old 10-12-2015, 06:23 PM   #21
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Ok well some roof raise prep today... We are doing this on a budget and with the tools I have to work with. My lifting device of choice is my engine cherry picker.

I'm improvising in effort to make my cuts square and limit them to 1 per post.


Tested it out on the pillars that the front supports will go on.


Well I'm sure you guys can see how this is going to work...
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Old 10-14-2015, 07:24 AM   #22
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Well so much for no rain. It started sprinkling on me yesterday while I was cutting. I got almost all my uprights cut (except 1 in each corner) but there was no way I was crawling up on the roof, to make the cut I have to make up there, while it was wet. Today I should have clear skies to finish.
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Old 10-14-2015, 09:46 AM   #23
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Good luck and blues skies.
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Old 10-14-2015, 08:00 PM   #24
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Well it's a crappy pic because the reflective lettering washed it out, but I'm too excited to care. We have lift off!


So I decided to stagger my cuts in an attempt to retain as much strength as possible. I'll shoot some better pics tomorrow and hopefully take it up to height.
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Old 10-15-2015, 12:13 AM   #25
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Good idea on the stagger. No weak line that way.
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Old 10-15-2015, 10:42 AM   #26
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I like your idea of multiple bolt holes on each wood stud. Are you raising each stud one at a time, or do you raise the whole roof all at once?
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Old 10-15-2015, 10:46 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gobygoby View Post
I like your idea of multiple bolt holes on each wood stud. Are you raising each stud one at a time, or do you raise the whole roof all at once?
I will be doing one end at a time and alternating between the front and the back in 6 inch increments (which is how far apart the holes in the 2x4s are.) I'll post a pic of my rig tonight when I get home from work.
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Old 10-15-2015, 04:30 PM   #28
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Cant wait to see how your lift goes.
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Old 10-15-2015, 08:28 PM   #29
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Cutting the support hat channels like that weakened your roof raise. Now you don't have enough rib to get a good overlap with your new metal.

Cutting in a strait line will not cause a weak spot. The weak spot would be at the top, or bottom of your splice pieces.

Dividing the distance equally would have given you a much stronger splice.

What will you be using to splice the support hat channels? I used custom formed pieces that match the original channels, made to fit over them. I had them made from one gauge thicker than the originals.

Nat
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Old 10-15-2015, 08:38 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
Cutting the support hat channels like that weakened your roof raise. Now you don't have enough rib to get a good overlap with your new metal.

Cutting in a strait line will not cause a weak spot. The weak spot would be at the top, or bottom of your splice pieces.

Dividing the distance equally would have given you a much stronger splice.

What will you be using to splice the support hat channels? I used custom formed pieces that match the original channels, made to fit over them. I had them made from one gauge thicker than the originals.

Nat
The plan is rectangular tube inserted into the old support and welded in with a 6" overlap. I disagree with staggering the cut making it weaker. Even like you say the weak point will be at the end of the splice true but if the end of that splice is at the same level all the way across that makes a weak point in a straight line all the way down the side of the bus. With them staggered the weak points won't be on an even plain.
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