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Old 02-21-2016, 08:09 PM   #21
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 56
Year: 1994
Chassis: Blue Bird TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9 12V
Rated Cap: ??...It's 28' long
Thanks for the reply, CaptSquid.

Yup. It's my understanding that the Kent school district up here (south of Seattle) uses the sanders when it's wet or slick. I haven't tried them out yet.

I'm think I will remove the rubber hoses (storage) and cap the sanders for the time being. Then when I know I'm going to be in an area I "might" need them I'll reinstall the hose extenders and fill the sanders.

That way I won't curbcheck them off somewhere!!
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Old 02-27-2016, 11:19 PM   #22
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 56
Year: 1994
Chassis: Blue Bird TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9 12V
Rated Cap: ??...It's 28' long
Heater Removal Success!

Hooray, me!! I got the rear two heaters and hoses out with only a wee bit of spillage. Yay!!

It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be...in spite of supply/return hoses running across the undercarriage in front of the rear wheels. There must have been half of Seattle's dirt caught up in the hose insulation though. Yuck!!

Whew. Now I should be able to get the final couple of floor pieces out after some fun with the grinder and the wheelchair tie-downs.
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Old 02-28-2016, 08:15 PM   #23
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 56
Year: 1994
Chassis: Blue Bird TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9 12V
Rated Cap: ??...It's 28' long
Sparks are fun!

I used the angle grinder today to get a bunch of bolt heads out of the floor from the wheelchair lift. Gained three tubular pieces of steel from it.

More of the floor came out today. I'm having a time getting the last wheelchair tie down bars out. I used the angle grinder on those but ended up burning the wood floor as well. Stinky but two more are gone. I just have a couple left as well as the sander bolts to remove/replace then I can continue to clean up the rust and seal the floor.

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Old 03-06-2016, 05:53 PM   #24
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 56
Year: 1994
Chassis: Blue Bird TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9 12V
Rated Cap: ??...It's 28' long
Bare Floor Success!

Yay! All the flooring is out. I'll keep working on removing the rubber flooring from the driver's area as I don't think I'll try to remove the air ride seat. I can't see the bolts underneath the bus to get to them.



A LOT of work but I'm feeling like that was at least a minor milestone. As soon as I can move without hurting too much I'll take the wire wheel out and start removing the rust. The rear left corner is pretty bad but otherwise I think everything will clean up nicely with some attention and some Ospho.

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Old 03-06-2016, 08:40 PM   #25
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 12,182
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward/AmTran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 78
That last pic is what my bus looks like by the rear door. ospho and a wire wheel on a drill will make short work of it.
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Old 03-10-2016, 11:37 PM   #26
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 56
Year: 1994
Chassis: Blue Bird TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9 12V
Rated Cap: ??...It's 28' long
Another milestone

I finally figured out how to get the rivets out of Serenity.

Whew!

Not a lot of mold in the fiberglass until I removed the second piece of batting. The entire bottom part was soaking wet and BLACK!! Yikes.

But the walls look pretty sound.

What do I do about the condensation on the inside of the exterior walls? Is that something that will be taken care of when I correctly insulate before installing new walls?

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Old 03-10-2016, 11:51 PM   #27
Bus Geek
 
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 6,173
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Leaky windows. All skoolie windows seem to leak. A lot.
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Old 03-11-2016, 03:46 AM   #28
Bus Nut
 
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Arizona via Baton Rouge
Posts: 640
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freight-shaker (Freightliner)
Engine: Cat 3126b 250 HP
Rated Cap: Only 1 seat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Leaky windows. All skoolie windows seem to leak. A lot.
Exactly. If you plan on keeping the original windows, remove them, strip down the old adhesives and add new. That way your windows will be not only bolted, but "glued in as well. (It would probably help with air leaks too!)

Nice little bus!

-Doc
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Old 03-11-2016, 12:28 PM   #29
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 56
Year: 1994
Chassis: Blue Bird TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9 12V
Rated Cap: ??...It's 28' long
Thanks, guys. I was thinking that my next project would be removing the windows to clean them up.

I'm hoping to keep Serenity looking as much like a "bus" as possible so I won't be doing a roof raise or replacing the windows. I'm not planning on living in it so extensive modifications aren't necessary.

Off to continue wrecking my hands with the air chisel!
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Old 03-11-2016, 02:45 PM   #30
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Miami
Posts: 167
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP
Engine: CAT 3116
Rated Cap: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by lizzabus View Post
Thanks, guys. I was thinking that my next project would be removing the windows to clean them up.
After I stripped out the interior I took out all my windows, cleaned the old caulk from the windows and frames, and then repainted everything, reinstalled the windows and resealed them. No leaks so far!
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