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Old 03-11-2016, 04:39 PM   #31
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Location: Houston, Texas
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Year: 1946
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I'll say it again. If you want to really seal anything on a vehicle...Commercial grade Seam Sealer from any auto paint & body supply house. Forget caulk, latex, silicone. Use what manufacturers now use. Fantastic stuff.
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Old 03-11-2016, 08:57 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Tango View Post
I'll say it again. If you want to really seal anything on a vehicle...Commercial grade Seam Sealer from any auto paint & body supply house. Forget caulk, latex, silicone. Use what manufacturers now use. Fantastic stuff.
Tango, you ever hear of this stuff???

http://www.amazon.com/Dynatron-550-A...ve+seam+sealer
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Old 03-11-2016, 11:15 PM   #33
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Sounds good from what I read. I have been using the one below. Factory approved and a bit cheraper.

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q...23047911830057
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Old 03-12-2016, 08:20 PM   #34
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Year: 1994
Chassis: Blue Bird TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9 12V
Rated Cap: ??...It's 28' long
Walls Removed!



A center punch, small sledge hammer, and an air chisel: Walls out in about 1.5 hours (with breaks for compressor to catch up and hands to rest). I feel accomplished!

Of course, here's why you can't get cocky with your air tools. Oops!!


I hate it when that happens.

There wasn't a whole lot of mold in the insulation...until I pulled it out and the bottom of most of the sheets was SOAKING wet. Yikes!

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Old 03-12-2016, 08:43 PM   #35
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Rated Cap: Only 1 seat
The nice thing about getting that moldy insulation out is, you can seal and put in rigid foam or spray in insulation. No more mold!!!

Good job on the demo!

-Doc
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Old 03-12-2016, 09:02 PM   #36
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Location: Willamina, Oregon
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Year: 1997
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Nice job, and you're in such a nice area to use your bus.

I've got a TC1000 which I thought was the medium size bus, but your TC2000 seems to be the same approximate length as mine. They look very similar but mine has a flat floor, possibly because it was a wheel chair (special needs) bus.

You've really been going at it on demolition. Keep it up.
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Old 03-12-2016, 10:43 PM   #37
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Location: Eustis FLORIDA
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Can't make an omelette without cracking a few eggs!
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Old 03-14-2016, 10:11 PM   #38
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 56
Year: 1994
Chassis: Blue Bird TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9 12V
Rated Cap: ??...It's 28' long
Removing side windows

Hey! I got two more windows out this evening after deciding that I wasn't going to be deterred by possible rain (you just can't wait on it up here in Seattle).

I used my heat gun to soften the almost non-existent sealant and popped two windows out in no time at all. I would have gotten that entire side finished but I can't get the retainer screws to back out. I shot them with PB Blaster and hopefully tomorrow they'll budge. Or I'll have a reason to go pick up that hammer drill I've been wanting.

For those of you with a Blue Bird and are removing windows I can post a couple of "how-to" pictures. I happened across a YouTube video this past weekend that showed using a heat gun. Who knew?!

No wonder I had dripping wet insulation in the sidewalls!! There was practically NO sealant on the window behind the wheelchair door.
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Old 03-14-2016, 10:22 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by lizzabus View Post

No wonder I had dripping wet insulation in the sidewalls!! There was practically NO sealant on the window behind the wheelchair door.
That is the status quo with these things!
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Old 03-15-2016, 08:56 AM   #40
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Location: EHT New Jersey
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Year: 2003
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International 3000RE
Engine: T444E/AT545
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No wonder I had dripping wet insulation in the sidewalls!! There was practically NO sealant on the window behind the wheelchair door.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Docsgsxr View Post
That is the status quo with these things!
Depends on the bus builder (and when the windows were installed). My bus is dry (until I started pulling windows), save for a missing rivet in the aft escape hatch. Hell, I've got to flip her around to get the curbside windows into the sun for warming so I can finish pulling them out.
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