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Old 09-13-2015, 12:51 PM   #81
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I have a ton of those left over from commercial furnace installs.

Nat

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Old 09-14-2015, 07:57 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Nebuchadnezzar View Post
Spent the day adding an underbelly box for the batteries for 600w of solar panels. Turns out a motorcycle lift is ideal for lifting stuff like this.
[IMG]URL=http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/tom_walker4/media/battery%20box%205_zpspqp8uwei.jpg.html]
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thats rad. good work.
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Old 09-15-2015, 11:37 AM   #83
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As promised here are some pictures for detail on how I chose to install this box.
the hanger
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Nuts jammed together to prevent loosening
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The box tightened against the floor supports as well as the openings (one on each side) for the air return grates that will be used to provide air flow through the box.
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[IMG][IMG]
Here is the frame work
[/IMG]
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Old 09-15-2015, 05:54 PM   #84
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If you reallllllly don't want those bolts moving you can always use locktite, super glue, or some clear nail polish.
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Old 09-15-2015, 11:52 PM   #85
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Thanks for sharing! really appreciate the info.
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Old 10-08-2015, 09:20 PM   #86
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Solar system progress

Making some progress with the solar charging system. Batteries are in and wired, one big 12v battery now. Cables have been built and run to the electronic cabinet. Solar charge controller and monitor are wired. Have to do some wiring for the inverter, shore power and load center. Getting there.
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Old 10-11-2015, 06:02 PM   #87
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Nice work on the electrical
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Old 10-18-2015, 03:27 PM   #88
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Finished the solar system

Finally finished the solar charging system, last warm weather project before the cold
[/URL][/IMG][/URL][/IMG]
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Old 11-01-2015, 12:41 PM   #89
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Heater help please

"So I replaced my heater hoses (cabin) a while back and relocated the heaters, the heaters sit on there sides now. I finally have good circulation of coolant through the system and no leaks thankfully. One thing that has me confused is that the heater blowers will not turn on. I have the two heater switches on as well as the booster pump switch? I'm confused, is the coolant just not hot enough or do the heaters somehow sense the temp in the bus?
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Old 11-01-2015, 02:17 PM   #90
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First, I would grab a test light or voltage meter and make sure you have power to the heaters.

I have never seen a blower motor have any sort of thermostat on it.

Nat
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Old 11-01-2015, 08:16 PM   #91
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Maybe you got a bus with a built in rollover switch built into the heaters but I kind
of doubt it. It may be that the fan grounds through the body of the heater and
since you turned it 90 Degrees you may have rolled it up onto insulating paint and
lost your ground. Check the positive and ground at the heater.
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Old 11-02-2015, 04:42 AM   #92
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I will check these things, thanks guys.
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Old 11-20-2015, 05:43 PM   #93
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Horizontal or vertical propane tanks

Ready to start Propane installation trying to decide whether to go with a 11.2 gallon horizontal or a couple of 20#'s?
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Old 11-20-2015, 06:11 PM   #94
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I like my 20#'ers...
But that's cause I already have them.
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Old 11-22-2015, 11:05 AM   #95
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I'm doing Both.

Bulk tank mounted underneath the bus so I can buy in bulk at bulk prices.

And a few 20 pounders for convenience and versatility.

Filling the bulk tank can be as cheap as 1\4 the cost per liter as filling the 20 pound tanks. 20 pound tanks are the most expensive way to buy propane.

Nat
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Old 11-22-2015, 11:56 AM   #96
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I totally agree with Nat. A bulk tank saves a bundle of doigh...but you do have to drive your rig somewhere to fill it. That's where a couple of 20# swappers come in handy.
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Old 11-22-2015, 10:51 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
I'm doing Both.

Bulk tank mounted underneath the bus so I can buy in bulk at bulk prices.

And a few 20 pounders for convenience and versatility.

Filling the bulk tank can be as cheap as 1\4 the cost per liter as filling the 20 pound tanks. 20 pound tanks are the most expensive way to buy propane.

Nat
Those stupid 1# green coleman bottles are the MOST expensive way to buy propane, damn rip off those little things are. I know in some states/counties/cities/roads you are limited to how many 20#ers you are legally allowed to carry. I have no clue about the rules in the great white north. If you have the space yeah a mountable RV tank and 2 20#tanks (one always full) is the most versatile robust system.
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Old 12-22-2015, 07:52 AM   #98
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12v wiring

12v wiring question: a lot of the 12v devices have a single hot wire to them then they're grounded to the frame, my distribution panel has a ground bar, is there any benefit in grounding to the ground bar in the panel vs. grounding to the frame?
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Old 12-22-2015, 08:50 AM   #99
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Quote:
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12v wiring question: a lot of the 12v devices have a single hot wire to them then they're grounded to the frame, my distribution panel has a ground bar, is there any benefit in grounding to the ground bar in the panel vs. grounding to the frame?
Take it right to the frame for anything 12v.
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Old 12-22-2015, 10:42 AM   #100
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The ground bar in your distribution panel should be going to the frame of the bus.

Anything that is 12-VDC should be grounding to the frame of the bus as well.

In other words, a ground lead attached to the bus frame 30' from the distribution panel ground bar is attached to the ground bar as well.
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