New beginnings - My skoolie build

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by jjhwick119

I guess I didn't notice it before, but in the overhead compartment at the front I saw this little guy. Is that the controller to my coolant heater or something else? Not sure how I missed this before

thats exactly what that is.. they were often installed with a timeclock to turn them on at a certain time.. or once turned on only run a certain length.
-Christopher

[jjhwick119]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

thats exactly what that is.. they were often installed with a timeclock to turn them on at a certain time.. or once turned on only run a certain length.
-Christopher

Sweet. Now I don't need any parts for it like I thought. I'll call that a big win!

Also got some good progress this morning! Started early today and got all the primer laid down! My 2 floor patches held nice and solid, just need to coat the underside to protect. Brought m6 soldering gun out too to finally repair the wires at trans temp gauge to fix the beeping, then gonna start taking dash peices apart since I have to let the floor dry.

Edit - If you see these connectors in your wiring at all, do yourself a favor and remove them and solder your wires. These connectors use a metal blade to cut into the wire, which can and did in my case cause a break in the wire over time, leading to my trans temp gauge going in / out, mostly out and with a warning beep nonstop while driving. This one even damaged the wire at end of the plastic from it moving around and rubbing the wire while driving, I assume

[cadillackid]

I hate those things! they are a cheap way for someone to tap into a wire.. and they do exactly as you say as most people use the blue ones designed for small wire and not the larger ones for larger wire... using the correct size actually works decent.. but big wire and blue splice = failure!!
-Christopher

[consti2tion]

Oh yeah those connectors are the worst!

[jjhwick119]

For the subfloor - regular plywood vs tongue and groove? Any big difference or is one just easier to line up? We don't stock tongue and groove at Lowe's so I'd have to get from the depot, but I get extra 10% off at Lowe's

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by jjhwick119

For the subfloor - regular plywood vs tongue and groove? Any big difference or is one just easier to line up? We don't stock tongue and groove at Lowe's so I'd have to get from the depot, but I get extra 10% off at Lowe's

I find it hard to believe that Frisco or any other city Lowes doesn't carry one of the biggest staples in home building, T&G subflooring.
I use the AdvanTech sub floor.
Easy to line up is not as important as having positive seam closure.


https://www.lowes.com/search?searchT...roove+subfloor

[jjhwick119]

Originally Posted by o1marc

I find it hard to believe that Frisco or any other city Lowes doesn't carry one of the biggest staples in home building, T&G subflooring.
I use the AdvanTech sub floor.
Easy to line up is not as important as having positive seam closure.


https://www.lowes.com/search?searchT...roove+subfloor

Well I work there and all we carry is OSB in tongue and groove, but think what you will

[Tango]

I used marine ply and just routed for biscuits to keep it all flat.

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by jjhwick119

Well I work there and all we carry is OSB in tongue and groove, but think what you will

It's not what I think. Their website says there are 50 sheets of T&G Plywood available today at the Frisco, Tx. store

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Plytanium-2...-4-x-8/3602906

[jjhwick119]

Originally Posted by o1marc

It's not what I think. Their website says there are 50 sheets of T&G Plywood available today at the Frisco, Tx. store

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Plytanium-2...-4-x-8/3602906

I work at the Little Elm store, where we dont carry it, and hadn't actually checked stock at other ones

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by jjhwick119

I work at the Little Elm store, where we dont carry it, and hadn't actually checked stock at other ones

If you work there, just order it from another store and have it delivered to yours same day?

[jjhwick119]

Originally Posted by o1marc

If you work there, just order it from another store and have it delivered to yours same day?

I wish lowes worked like that, lol. I'll just end up driving over in the bus

[2martins]

Originally Posted by o1marc

I find it hard to believe that Frisco or any other city Lowes doesn't carry one of the biggest staples in home building, T&G subflooring.
I use the AdvanTech sub floor.
Easy to line up is not as important as having positive seam closure.


https://www.lowes.com/search?searchT...roove+subfloor

Tell me about positive seam closure please. Do you mean using something like aluminum tape over the seams of the insulation?

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[o1marc]

Originally Posted by 2martins

Tell me about positive seam closure please. Do you mean using something like aluminum tape over the seams of the insulation?

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i'm referring to positive seams where the wood attaches to the next piece.Tongue and groove plugs into each other making it basically one piece, instead up just butting up two pieces and using fasteners to hold it in place, If your subfloor is not flat you may not get butt edges to lay flat.

[2martins]

Originally Posted by o1marc

i'm referring to positive seams where the wood attaches to the next piece.Tongue and groove plugs into each other making it basically one piece, instead up just butting up two pieces and using fasteners to hold it in place, If your subfloor is not flat you may not get butt edges to lay flat.

I gave my router away years ago when I moved 2000+ miles away, but plywood panels that are already T&G are about $8 more per piece it seems from a brief look at the HD website. How do you feel about biscuits for a floating subfloor and then an opposite direction (probably) floating T&G engineered HW floor (because I have extra in the garage anyway). Seems like I could make biscuit slots with something besides a router? Multi max maybe?

I also considered just cutting the plywood for the subfloor and the ceiling at an angle and overlapping them to avoid the butt joints. That would probably require more adhesive and or fasteners tho?

And I'm very unsure about cutting the edge of 1/4" at an angle OR using biscuits. I'm not sure it's thick enough to be able to make that work but since I want it to bend with the curve of the ceiling it can't be too thick!

I don't want to have ugly butt joints in the ceiling nor lots of visible fasteners. I saw one that was pressure fit (no visible fasteners! although it probably has some adhesive underneath) It was the best looking one I've seen. I also couldn't see any joints between them so he must have used T&G plywood or biscuits or something. He did stay above the tight part of the curve on the edges of the ceiling, so perhaps he used thicker than 1/4"?





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[2martins]

Originally Posted by Ninjakitty

I keep repeating to myself what I read on here before, "there has to be some rust for the rust converter to work." I'm down to the last panel of hammering and wire Wheeling. I'm not trying to get it shiny, I'm just trying to remove the flakey chunks and the surface rust. Need to have something to convert. If I went to all shiney metal, I'd have no floor.

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Ha ha! I kept repeating "You cannot convert rust that you remove"!!

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[Twigg]

Originally Posted by 2martins

I don't want to have ugly butt joints in the ceiling nor lots of visible fasteners. I saw one that was pressure fit (no visible fasteners! although it probably has some adhesive underneath) It was the best looking one I've seen. I also couldn't see any joints between them so he must have used T&G plywood or biscuits or something. He did stay above the tight part of the curve on the edges of the ceiling, so perhaps he used thicker than 1/4"?

There are a few ways to deal with fasteners if you use sheet goods on the ceiling.

1. Buy nice fasteners and make them a feature.

2. Sink the heads in and use contrasting plugs over them

3. Add thin hardwood strips over all the joins and create a "paneled" look.

[jjhwick119]

Anyone know which foam board at lowes is XPS? None of them actually say extruded, but i believe the blue DOW board is xps, but it says no good for floors.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/STYROFOAM-C...lation/3125297

[Thomas1985]

That looks similar to this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/STYROFOA...FdeIYgodcv8A7Q

[jjhwick119]

Originally Posted by Thomas1985

That looks similar to this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/STYROFOA...FdeIYgodcv8A7Q

Yep. actually just saw that on home depots site a moment ago