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05-01-2018, 09:27 PM
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#301
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Tahoe
Posts: 513
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
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Unistrut and allthread is the no weld solution to underbelly storage supports.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn
Research 1 5/8" galvanized Unistrut and and bracketry, (90 degree brackets and 45 degree brackets avaiable,) available, bolts, spring nuts, flat washers, lock washers, and threaded rod and you can build that as strong as welding something. And can expand if necessary later on.
All you need is a socket set and a grinder to cut the strut to length desired.
It will be as strong as anything you could buy or make otherwise and look good to. Same framing for propane tanks as the batteries so once you build one, the next will be easy.
Make sure you buy the strut with no holes though, some come with holes every inch or so. It is often found in electrical and plumbing wholesalers, not so much at HD or Lowes etc.
John
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__________________
middle aged mom on a learning adventure
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05-01-2018, 11:05 PM
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#302
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Frisco, Texas
Posts: 829
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: Dt466e
Rated Cap: 71
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does hot rolled vs cold rolled make a difference for the sheet metal? trying to price it out
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05-02-2018, 05:50 AM
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#304
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg
This is exactly what I did last weekend.
I will run a final bead of sealant along the upper edge between the drip rail and the new panel, but I think they are pretty well sealed as they are.
I screwed the panels along three edges and through the center window dividers. They are solidly in place. I put up four panels covering three, three, two and two windows and I used 18-qauge.
One note ... where the window trim panels cover the rub rail you need to cut off the overlap or the new panels will not sit flush at the bottom.
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Or take off the rub rails, and put them back on after the panels are over the windows.
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05-02-2018, 05:52 AM
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#305
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjhwick119
does hot rolled vs cold rolled make a difference for the sheet metal? trying to price it out
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Hot rolled will do just fine. 18ga is what most bus bodies are made of.
I've used a bunch of hot rolled 18ga and never had an issue with oil canning, buckling, dents, or any of that.
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05-02-2018, 07:34 AM
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#306
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
Or take off the rub rails, and put them back on after the panels are over the windows.
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Well that would be a lot of extra work just to create a seam with the open (sealed) edge up.
I used CR1008 (cold-rolled). It's what they had, was a reasonable price and comes clean, without mill scale.
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05-02-2018, 08:55 AM
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#307
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Frisco, Texas
Posts: 829
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: Dt466e
Rated Cap: 71
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After reading more and reccomendations I'll be going with 18 gauge. The metal shop I used to get my pieces for the roof told me they had to order in sheet metal....i found out from the other skoolie at my rv lot that they get their sheets from another metal shop in town, so I'll be calling that shop today for some prices and hopefully grab some steel for this weekend! Got 5 windows in a row on one aide I'll be doing 2 peices covering 3 and 2, and the other 4 windows are singles, one being the larger first window
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05-02-2018, 11:01 AM
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#308
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjhwick119
After reading more and reccomendations I'll be going with 18 gauge. The metal shop I used to get my pieces for the roof told me they had to order in sheet metal....i found out from the other skoolie at my rv lot that they get their sheets from another metal shop in town, so I'll be calling that shop today for some prices and hopefully grab some steel for this weekend! Got 5 windows in a row on one aide I'll be doing 2 peices covering 3 and 2, and the other 4 windows are singles, one being the larger first window
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Getting the 3-window piece in place is a three-person job. Ask me how I know.
The other pieces are easy for two people.
If you are doing it on you own, rent a scaffold platform and use jacks to raise the panel up under the drip-rail.
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05-02-2018, 11:23 AM
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#309
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Cold rolled steel is far easier to finish as the surface is relatively clean.
Hot rolled steel will have a layer of mill scale that really needs to come off and can be a royal Beotch to deal with. Mill scale is a layer of oxide (essentially...rust) that is compressed onto the surface of the metal as it is formed and is often harder than the steel below. It is best removed with acid or sandblasting as a sander/grinder is going to remove a lot of steel in the process of cleaning. Lots of folks paint over it just because it is so much work to deal with but "doing it right" calls for removal. And...it should always be removed from weld areas. You never want oxides inside a weld.
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05-02-2018, 12:28 PM
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#310
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg
Well that would be a lot of extra work just to create a seam with the open (sealed) edge up.
I used CR1008 (cold-rolled). It's what they had, was a reasonable price and comes clean, without mill scale.
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The rub rails have drains on the bottom.
To each their own- but I like the way it looks when its flush and goes under the rub rail... Anyhow- roll your own! lol
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05-02-2018, 12:29 PM
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#311
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
Cold rolled steel is far easier to finish as the surface is relatively clean.
Hot rolled steel will have a layer of mill scale that really needs to come off and can be a royal Beotch to deal with. Mill scale is a layer of oxide (essentially...rust) that is compressed onto the surface of the metal as it is formed and is often harder than the steel below. It is best removed with acid or sandblasting as a sander/grinder is going to remove a lot of steel in the process of cleaning. Lots of folks paint over it just because it is so much work to deal with but "doing it right" calls for removal. And...it should always be removed from weld areas. You never want oxides inside a weld.
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Man, maybe I'm lucky but my $60 4x10's come clean, smooth, and ready to work with.
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05-02-2018, 12:32 PM
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#312
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Frisco, Texas
Posts: 829
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: Dt466e
Rated Cap: 71
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the upper most bump in the rail appears to be part of the side, not something bolted on. its one peice of metal forming that bump and running up to the window ledge, and under window.
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05-02-2018, 12:45 PM
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#313
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjhwick119
the upper most bump in the rail appears to be part of the side, not something bolted on. its one peice of metal forming that bump and running up to the window ledge, and under window.
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Can you show me a pic of what you're talking about?
My rub rails are just riveted on the sides of the bus. On the Thomas and the IC I've currently got.
On my last bus with the roof raise I just took off the rub rails, it took about a half hour at most.
Like I said- to each their own I'm just relaying what I've experienced.
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05-02-2018, 02:52 PM
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#314
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Frisco, Texas
Posts: 829
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: Dt466e
Rated Cap: 71
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I'll grab picture once I'm off work. Gonna measure again one more time before placing an order for metal
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05-02-2018, 03:17 PM
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#315
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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On the above pic you can see the bluish area where the rub rail sits. The panels go flush over it all then the rub rail riveted back on for a seamless factory-ish appearance.
This is before, when the rub rails were still on-
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05-02-2018, 03:30 PM
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#316
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
Cold rolled steel is far easier to finish as the surface is relatively clean.
Hot rolled steel will have a layer of mill scale that really needs to come off and can be a royal Beotch to deal with. Mill scale is a layer of oxide (essentially...rust) that is compressed onto the surface of the metal as it is formed and is often harder than the steel below. It is best removed with acid or sandblasting as a sander/grinder is going to remove a lot of steel in the process of cleaning. Lots of folks paint over it just because it is so much work to deal with but "doing it right" calls for removal. And...it should always be removed from weld areas. You never want oxides inside a weld.
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This is the hot rolled steel I get, with the late, GREAT Eddie pictured!
Edit- idk why its showing so dark when I upload it.
No way to delete a post anymore, so its pretty much a wasted post lol.
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05-02-2018, 04:09 PM
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#317
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Frisco, Texas
Posts: 829
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: Dt466e
Rated Cap: 71
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Ok, here's what I'm talking about. Slightly different than what I was trying to explain. The rub rail is under another peice of metal on top of it, so I can't just unscrew it, there would be more work to get to it
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05-02-2018, 04:22 PM
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#318
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Well dang, doesn't seem that Thomas makes this easy!
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05-02-2018, 04:25 PM
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#319
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Frisco, Texas
Posts: 829
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: Dt466e
Rated Cap: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
Well dang, doesn't seem that Thomas makes this easy!
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My plan was to remove the middle trim pieces between window to cut off the lower quarter inch hat curves over at the bottom black portion, remove all the black screws between rail and window, and then new panel will sit in right on top of the rail where the current seam is
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05-02-2018, 04:37 PM
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#320
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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won't it dent/deform when you rivet/screw it down? It doesnt seem that all would be flush.
IDK, don't mind me. I'm just bored and a bit tired.
But Thomas body mods do fascinate me for sure!
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