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Old 01-23-2015, 06:02 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by jazty View Post
If you are truly convinced that was a civil response then you are clearly a sociopath. I'll enlist the help of the binary gods to make sure our paths don't cross again. Not missing anything here, anyhow..
Cheerio
I very well may be a lot of a sociopath. But that has nothing to do with you having never watched Billy Madison.

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Wow...pardon moi --- do a little basic reading on how diesel engines work dude. And then get a life. I mean, WTF...just trying to pass on some very basic info here.


Meanwhile...if you aren't open to input...don't go posting issues.
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FYI - Any diesel engine in oil patch (stationary) is required to have an emergency shut down device that totally seals off the air source for the reasons stated above. A methane or natural gas leak on a well can result in the engine running away even if the engine shutdown is activated. Ever seen a 12 cylinder diesel go kablooey? Not pretty.

The single most common cause of over-the-road engines running away is engine oil. Most commonly through the intake side of the turbo seal but it can even occur from worn rings as well as a number of other fuel (oil) sources.

But since you are a diesel expert, I'm sure you already knew that...but just forgot it. However, some people are aware of this potential while others are not. Disseminating such information is therefore considered a public service.

BTW...I am installing an emergency shutdown device on my little Cummins 4BT. Just in case.
I know more about diesels then you ever will. You spout off **** in every post you make that you know nothing about. I would love to see the law against anti seizing lug nuts.

Just stay out of my threads or I will make you look like the know nothing you really are.

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Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach View Post
I think you answered your own question when you said your bus had been idling a lot recently.

On ski runs when we have to keep the buses running to keep heat in the buses and to make sure they will start when it is time to go home, the exhaust tip actually will start to dribble some really black gunk onto the ground. When we finally load up and take off the smoke coming out of most of the buses is pretty impressive.

Personally, if it was my bus I would put it all back together and take the bus out for a good workout. Like 100-200 miles with a good hill along the way to get all of the juices working.

I think once you get back you will discover most of your wetness will have disappeared.

I jumped the gun. It was a long cold day and I really was not thinking about it. Then little wanna be pops off his mouth. Since he knows it all and is such an expert he failed to mention what the real problem likely is.

Which is correctly called "wet stacking" as you eluded to. I just need to get it out and beat the snot out of it to burn the carbon off the injector tips. Which after tomorrow I can now that my parts are here.

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Old 01-23-2015, 06:11 PM   #62
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To get this thread back on track.

Air bags are rotted out and do not hold air. So I started working on that issue.







Got them removed last week and ordered the new ones.

Also ordered some new brake lines as the old ones were really starting to look bad. I did not take a photo of the new ones before I installed them but here are the old ones.


Picked up my 7 22.5" rims from the powder coater today.



UPS showed up with some parts this morning. Rebuild kits for my air wiper motors and one new switch.



Then Fed-Ex showed up this afternoon with this. New bags and shocks all around.



Now to get to work.
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Old 01-23-2015, 06:39 PM   #63
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NICE
Good work on this bus right here!
How much did the PC on the rims cost you? I bet that thing will ride great with new shocks. Been meaning to do mine for a bit now.
I second the wet-stacking idea, but I am curious to hear how taking her for a good trip clears things out.
I thought my last bus was having serious problems as I could see an oily-looking substance dripping from one of the exhaust couplings at the turbo--figured my turbo had some bad seals so I took it off and found there was oil upstream from it. My manifold bolts were not about to come off they were rusted so badly, so I figured I'd just take the injectors off the old 466 and have them tested. Turns out, all but 1 was leaking!
I replaced them and that cured my problems!
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Old 01-23-2015, 06:57 PM   #64
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Unlike you, I have never claimed to be a "diesel expert" but that still doesn't change the fact that a diesel engine that is potentially sucking oil from an unknown internal source can run away. That's all I had to add. If that is incorrect, please let us all know. There are a lot of us bus and Diesel Newbies here and we try to share whatever we learn or hear or have read somewhere. If you want to add or correct information here, it is welcomed. If you are such an expert...act like one and add to the knowledge base rather than spouting off like a spoiled child.

As for the anti-seize remark...that came from (as was duly noted in my post) a professional diesel tech with nearly 20 years experience I have hired to help me with my project. I have no idea of the veracity of the remark, that is why it was so stated.

So, in addition to getting a life...learn to read.

G'night Nat.
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Old 01-23-2015, 07:08 PM   #65
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NICE
Good work on this bus right here!
How much did the PC on the rims cost you? I bet that thing will ride great with new shocks. Been meaning to do mine for a bit now.
I second the wet-stacking idea, but I am curious to hear how taking her for a good trip clears things out.
I thought my last bus was having serious problems as I could see an oily-looking substance dripping from one of the exhaust couplings at the turbo--figured my turbo had some bad seals so I took it off and found there was oil upstream from it. My manifold bolts were not about to come off they were rusted so badly, so I figured I'd just take the injectors off the old 466 and have them tested. Turns out, all but 1 was leaking!
I replaced them and that cured my problems!

$15 each for blasting and coating, so $105 total.

Getting rid of the split 20s as those tires are getting very expensive. The 22.5s are easy to find and I get rid of the widow makers.

I might have bad injectors even though it has almost no miles on it. Once I get this stuff buttoned up, finish the rear lights, and get the front seat installed I will take her out and see what happens.
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Old 01-23-2015, 07:08 PM   #66
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Blah
Just go away.
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Old 01-23-2015, 07:13 PM   #67
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WOW $15 each is amazin.... you must 'have a guy' Ill do some research and see if i can find a deal in CO. If I can, im gonna add that to the list of things i do when im getting the cosmetics taken care of
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Old 01-23-2015, 07:20 PM   #68
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WOW $15 each is amazin.... you must 'have a guy' Ill do some research and see if i can find a deal in CO. If I can, im gonna add that to the list of things i do when im getting the cosmetics taken care of
Funny you should say that. It was the first time I used the place. Cold called them up and told them what I had and wanted. He thought for a moment and said $15 each. I said, I am on my way. These things looked pretty bad when I dropped them off.

This was a very large production shop. They shoot large batches of white every week I was told. So that brings the price down tremendously if they can throw it in with another batch. If it would have been some odd color I am sure the price would have at least tripled.

Call around, you might be surprised at what you find.
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Old 01-23-2015, 10:10 PM   #69
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What...no "expert" response to the run away issue? I'm not goin' anywhere Bub. We need all the information we can get here. And I will take wisdom from any source...even yours. After all...you are the ultimate "Diesel Expert"...set us straight.

BTW...nice build.
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Old 01-24-2015, 11:14 AM   #70
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G'night Nat. Now that's funny.
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Old 01-24-2015, 10:22 PM   #71
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Today's update.

Had some stuff pop up today so I only got a few hours to work on the bus. Got the new bags installed and plumbed up. Installed the new rear shocks also. So the rear suspension and brakes are now finished. I went around to the parts stores in town but none of them had enough tire stems for my wheels. Plus they wanted $7 a pop for them. I wound up ordering a set of 10 online for $21. Once they get here I will be able to install the new rear wheels and tires then set her back down.





Tomorrow I think I will get the front shocks mounted. Then see what else I want to work on. I still have a bunch of wiring to do.
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Old 01-25-2015, 05:42 AM   #72
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while under there, i would hang the exhaust pipe better. thats gonna make some (lots) of noise where it contacts the frame.
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Old 01-25-2015, 08:20 AM   #73
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Nice bus, and nice progress.
But don't be so grumpy. Its the internet, guy.
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Old 01-25-2015, 10:38 AM   #74
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while under there, i would hang the exhaust pipe better. thats gonna make some (lots) of noise where it contacts the frame.

Must be an optical illusion as the exhaust is not touching anything.
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Old 01-25-2015, 04:37 PM   #75
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Weather was **** this morning so I was not out working on the bus. Figured I would rebuild the Sprague M-554 air push wiper motor. Sit at kitchen table and started to pull it apart and everything was going fine. Rebuild the control valve assembly first. Move onto the piston assembly next. Find the plastic pistons have cracks in them.

I could likely put them back together and they would work but I am already balls deep and way to much money into them to not order the new pistons tomorrow. If I get another 27 years out of them I guess we will be good. These motors are pretty expensive to rebuild. Or I just got hosed on the parts.

They seem pretty expensive for just a few bits of plastic and some O-rings. After I order the new pistons and one more control switch I would not be surprised to have the proverbial $350 into this adventure. I am pretty close already.












I will get more detailed photos once I get the new parts in and do the other one. If you have some of these models they are super simple to rebuild. I hear they are the cats meow once they are rebuilt.
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Old 01-25-2015, 06:11 PM   #76
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Ive seen those motors go for cheap on ebay--is yours a special model? I think i recall picking up some for around $150 each that were new...
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Old 01-25-2015, 07:52 PM   #77
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The shaft length/style can be different as is the degree is moves. Mine are 85degree units with very long shafts.
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Old 01-26-2015, 07:20 PM   #78
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Got some work done today. Got the front shocks installed and changed the diff fluid. Also has some parts come in today. New reflectors and a LED turn signal relay.





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Old 01-26-2015, 08:30 PM   #79
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That Severe Gear stuff is really good. I've run it for years now.
My Subaru loves it. I don't know if I could afford to put it in my bus. I'll probably go with something in a big, cheap jug at Rural King. Very nice work and great detailing of all of it in the thread.
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Old 01-26-2015, 09:34 PM   #80
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That was only part of the oil for the diff. It holds almost 5 gallons. No one likes a $500 diff service. Should last me quite a while though. And hopefully net me better mileage over the long haul. It had regular dino gear sap in it that would have made molasses envious.
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