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Old 12-12-2014, 03:18 AM   #41
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Re: New here. Here is my Bus. Dialup warning.

Very nice, I just re-did my battery box too.
The wiring and terminals were good, so I took everything apart, cleaned it, then painted it to better than new.
I agree- it takes longer in the cold. It was a blistering 60 yesterday! :lol
Good idea to add the battery switch. I will be ordering one of these soon.

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Old 12-14-2014, 02:00 PM   #42
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Re: New here. Here is my Bus. Dialup warning.

Got some more work done on the bus. I have the rear marker lights on and semi wired. I have the rear turn, brake, and reverse lights setup on one side. Just need to do the other. I will have two small holes to make a temporary plate so they can be covered. These holes are the old reverse light holes. The old lower running light holes where the reverse lights will now be sitting were larger. You can see the side by side difference.

I removed the rear spot lamp off the back and will be replacing it. The weather was not kind to the old girl. Still waiting on more goodies to show up. The rear corners will need some body work before I repaint the roof. The corners appear to have been bumped slightly so that made it difficult to attach the lights how I wanted. They will be redone after the roof is repaired.



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Old 12-15-2014, 12:05 AM   #43
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Re: New here. Here is my Bus. Dialup warning.

So I spent most of a day on the phone bouncing from one company to another trying to track the turbo seal stuff down.

Started at the local International dealer spent a bit of time with him but he was not really able to find much. he suggested I call another dealer and talk to Mr. R. Spent a bunch of time with him going over the numbers off my turbo and really digging it up. Finally found a cross reference and was able to find a parts diagram. He looked up their numbers and the were all NLA.

Then he went and cross referenced the International numbers found the Garret numbers for the parts I needed. Then gave me 2 local leads to see if they could order aftermarket parts using those numbers. Place #1 nothing came up with the numbers. Place #2 was in the same boat. But he provided me with a place and number to call and see if they could find them.

Called the place up and talked to a man named Todd. Told him what I was doing and we started trying to find the parts. At first nothing came up but then he tried something else and some of the numbers became good. One of the numbers was still bad though. Gave him the whole turbo assembly part number and after some digging was able to just find a parts list for the turbo. We tracked down the missing part using the description from the exploded diagram that Mr.R gave me.

All that work to find $13 worth of parts. Ordered them up and they should be drop shipping out today. I just ordered the seals. If this does not fix it or I can not fix it he said he can get me a new Garret turbo for $992.36. I am really optimistic these $20 in parts will save my low use turbo.
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Old 12-15-2014, 12:06 AM   #44
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Re: New here. Here is my Bus. Dialup warning.

I will post this info in case anyone on the net is looking for International Garret T04e series turbo parts for a 1988 era DT466 motor engine.

Exploded view and no longer available parts number list.




I ordered 1 #11, 1 #12, 4 #16, and 1 #20.

I will list the International part numbers and the Garret equivalents.

International #, parts description, Garret #.

#11 343847R1, Ring CTR HSG Seal, 400424-0
#12 615746C1, Ring Turbocharger Compr HSG Piston, 403818-0
#16 627774C1, Ring BRG RET, 400568-0
#20 684359C2, Ring Turbocharger Turbine HSG Piston, 408049-9


Maybe this will help the next poor sap trying to find parts for this turbo.
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Old 12-18-2014, 05:18 PM   #45
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Re: New here. Here is my Bus. Dialup warning.

Have not done much with the weather and stuff going on. Have had more parts show up though. Turbo stuff is in also but I do not currently have a photo.

Large order from Fastenal of various sizes of stainless steel bolts, screws, nuts, and washers in tamper resistant torx heads. it does not look like much in the photos but there are many hundreds of pieces. Replacing all the window, light, and other fasteners on the bus. Some are showing their age and not looking all that nice.


Got my 4ga battery lugs, 6-way fuse block, marine battery terminals, marine battery terminal covers, and an 8amp 4-way USB charger port system to keep the goodies up and running.


The side view and rear view camera system came in. Wired it up on the table to test it.



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Old 12-20-2014, 09:21 PM   #46
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Had another part come in. Worked on the bus a little today. It claims 8000 lumens of blind you in the face, let there be light. The orignal spot light, while still working, was all rusted up and showing its age. This light has some switches in the rear to turn it on or tie it into the reverse lights when they come on. Also got the rear camera mounted up. Will get some better photos tomorrow in the light of them finished.




Wires ran.


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Old 12-21-2014, 09:14 AM   #47
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Pretty sweet bus man. Keep it up.
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Old 12-21-2014, 09:44 AM   #48
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Looking great...like all the goodies you ordered
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Old 12-24-2014, 02:41 PM   #49
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Had some more parts show up. I ordered 80 feet of new butyl rubber to reseal the windows I have to remove. Did not take a photo of that.

Like I mentioned earlier I was going to build a hitch for the bus. After looking through my metal pile and calling to get prices on stuff I will need it was going to be a wash to just buying one. Now had I built it I would have added a ton of metal to my pile but I did not feel the need to do that right now.

I will have to modify this one and reweld it but it has most of what I need. Which was mainly the drop portion of the hitch to clear my ramp under the rear. It is way to wide for the frame but that will be an easy fix. It is a 20k Class V.

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Old 01-17-2015, 11:39 PM   #50
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Time for an update.

It has been way to cold to be outside working on this thing. Even though my time is running out to get it done. It has warmed up a bit this weekend so I am trying to get something done.

As I mentioned I got a bad oil leak out of the back side of the turbo. The motor has 25000 miles on it and is a 1988. I figured the seal just went out in the hot side.

Fast forward to today.
I pulled the turbo off to rebuild it. After removing the turbo I notice the input is wet as is the exhaust manifold.

I then wondered if a valve guide went bad so I removed the nuts holding on the manifold to see if it was one cylinder was the culprit. After sliding it back on the studs I find every one, was wet.

I find it hard to believe all the valve guides took a dump on every hole at once. They could have been going bad one by one over time. The intake is clean and dry. Which leaves the injectors and pump. The puddle under the bus looks like diesel oil. I smelled the fluid in the ports but I can not tell if it is more one then the other.

The bus has always smoked when idling and I figured I just needed to adjust the smoke wheel on the pump but have never gotten around to it. Now I am not sure that is the issue.

The fuel does have a bit of new motor oil mixed into it that I added recently (cheap store brand stuff that came with a car I bought). I am not sure that really has anything to do with this problem but I added it anyway. It ran before and I never had this leak.

I have not pulled the valve cover at this point.

Anyone have any ideas what might be causing this issue.

Pics.








The more I think about this it is either the valve guide seals or it is mainly running off the oil I dumped into the tank not long ago. The motor has mostly been idled lately, not been pushed hard, nor heated up much. I am thinking the oil, cold temperatures, and the smoke screw out of adjustment is making it not burn the motor oil it is sucking up completely.

I think I will throw it back together tomorrow, dump some more diesel into it, and adjust the smoke screw. I will see if that clears it up any unless anyone comes up with a better idea. The valve guides might still need replaced.
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Old 01-18-2015, 09:59 AM   #51
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Oil in the cooling water is one thing...oil in the fuel can potentially be a disaster waiting to happen. Remember...a diesel engine can run on and burn just about anything. (NOTE: The original full name of one particular outfit used to be...The Cummins Oil Engine Company.)

A diesel engine can "run away" given an uncontrollable source of fuel. Fuel coming through the pump can be shut down...oil coming through bad seals or such cannot.

They can even run away from fumes in the air.

I would encourage a thorough check up. Maybe starting at the turbo.

And in case you've never witnessed it before...Google "run away diesel" on You Tube sometime for fun.
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Old 01-18-2015, 10:12 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Oil in the cooling water is one thing...oil in the fuel can potentially be a disaster waiting to happen. Remember...a diesel engine can run on and burn just about anything. (NOTE: The original full name of one particular outfit used to be...The Cummins Oil Engine Company.)

A diesel engine can "run away" given an uncontrollable source of fuel. Fuel coming through the pump can be shut down...oil coming through bad seals or such cannot.

They can even run away from fumes in the air.

I would encourage a thorough check up. Maybe starting at the turbo.

And in case you've never witnessed it before...Google "run away diesel" on You Tube sometime for fun.

Umm, thanks for that information?

Mr. Tango, what you've just said is one of the most insanely idiotic things I have ever heard. At no point in your rambling, incoherent response were you even close to anything that could be considered a rational thought. Everyone in this room is now dumber for having listened to it. I award you no points, and may God have mercy on your soul.

It is quite clear you know only what you have managed to read on Wikipedia. Thanks for the effort, but you should consider padding your post count on things you might actually have a clue about. Also, consider reading the posts so you can understand what is going on instead of popping off like an idiot.
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Old 01-18-2015, 10:36 AM   #53
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Whoa there fella! That was an uncalled for and mean spirited response to someone trying to help out. Please keep it civil in here.
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Old 01-18-2015, 10:43 AM   #54
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Whoa there fella! That was an uncalled for and mean spirited response to someone trying to help out. Please keep it civil in here.
Whoa???? That was totally called for. His response was in no way, shape, or form helping anything but his post count. Some of us do not care to spread bad information and will call others out on it. I was very civil in my response. If you would like me to get belligerent, just say the word.

If you have nothing helpful or useful to add then one should just stay out of the conversation. It is clear I have forgotten more about diesels then Mr. Tango has ever known. He can gladly keep all his information to himself.

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Old 01-18-2015, 11:54 AM   #55
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Gotta agree with Jatsy here. You asked for comments and you got a comment. It's OK not to agree but it not OK to attack the person who is responding. Hopefully you meant your response to be helpful, but it came off as condescending and mean spirited--neither of which have a place on a forum such as this.
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Old 01-18-2015, 04:32 PM   #56
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I think the misunderstanding here is that the PO thought that Tango was telling him that the oil he added to his tank might cause his engine to run away. This would not be likely, as the injector pump would control the diluted fuel/oil the same as it would if only fuel by itself. However, I believe the point that Tango was making is that oil from another source (an uncontrolled one) could in fact cause the engine to run away and self destruct. This is very true.
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Old 01-18-2015, 06:40 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassnTruck View Post
I was very civil in my response.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BassnTruck View Post
...most insanely idiotic things I have ever heard. At no point in your rambling, incoherent response were you even close to anything that could be considered a rational thought. Everyone in this room is now dumber for having listened to it. I award you no points, and may God have mercy on your soul.

...popping off like an idiot.
If you are truly convinced that was a civil response then you are clearly a sociopath. I'll enlist the help of the binary gods to make sure our paths don't cross again. Not missing anything here, anyhow..
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Old 01-18-2015, 06:51 PM   #58
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Wow...pardon moi --- do a little basic reading on how diesel engines work dude. And then get a life. I mean, WTF...just trying to pass on some very basic info here.


Meanwhile...if you aren't open to input...don't go posting issues.
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:22 PM   #59
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FYI - Any diesel engine in oil patch (stationary) is required to have an emergency shut down device that totally seals off the air source for the reasons stated above. A methane or natural gas leak on a well can result in the engine running away even if the engine shutdown is activated. Ever seen a 12 cylinder diesel go kablooey? Not pretty.

The single most common cause of over-the-road engines running away is engine oil. Most commonly through the intake side of the turbo seal but it can even occur from worn rings as well as a number of other fuel (oil) sources.

But since you are a diesel expert, I'm sure you already knew that...but just forgot it. However, some people are aware of this potential while others are not. Disseminating such information is therefore considered a public service.

BTW...I am installing an emergency shutdown device on my little Cummins 4BT. Just in case.
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Old 01-19-2015, 10:15 AM   #60
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I think you answered your own question when you said your bus had been idling a lot recently.

On ski runs when we have to keep the buses running to keep heat in the buses and to make sure they will start when it is time to go home, the exhaust tip actually will start to dribble some really black gunk onto the ground. When we finally load up and take off the smoke coming out of most of the buses is pretty impressive.

Personally, if it was my bus I would put it all back together and take the bus out for a good workout. Like 100-200 miles with a good hill along the way to get all of the juices working.

I think once you get back you will discover most of your wetness will have disappeared.
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