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Old 11-27-2011, 01:00 AM   #51
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Re: New Project!

Quote:
Originally Posted by thommassey
Strong reasoning for me to reconsider roof raise... but, since it is my first bus, I may go with one similiar to "New project", just not so tall. Maybe 12-18 inches.. with the integrated roof rack/deck. Won't be carrying much as far as load (so I say now)
Another benefit of the deck is that protects the roof from direct sunlight= stays cooler!.
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Old 11-27-2011, 11:17 AM   #52
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Re: New Project!

"Another benefit of the deck is that protects the roof from direct sunlight= stays cooler!."

Excellent logic. If you look at the old safari built Land Rovers designed for use in Africa, they all had a double roof with an open air gap in between. No matter where you were, the actual "roof" was always in the shade! Makes huge difference.
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Old 11-28-2011, 01:27 PM   #53
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Re: New Project!

We feel that there are two different ways to do the roof raise. If you're only going up a little bit and you're not changing the window openings, then you could use a thiner gauge tubbing and put the rib sections back in. Or if you are going to be changing a lot of the window openings, then the structure is already changed so much that it would be better to go with diagonals instead of sporadically repairing the rib sections.

We appreciate the concern about the structural integrity of the bus after the roof raise, but feel with the cross beams we have added, we will have no problems with the structure.

Tango, We think the advice you got from bluebird was more about liability as opposed to structural issues. We understand that our bus would not handle a roll-over situation as well as a stock school bus, but it is made of steel and not wood, so it will still be one of the strongest RV's out there.

Thanks to everyone for the painting advice! : ) We are thinking about going with the Hy-Tech Bus Kote with the Flexi-Clear coating. The Flexi-Clear is supposed to be hydrophobic and should repel dirt even though it is white. http://www.hytechsales.com/prod2150.html Anyone have any experience with this stuff?
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:45 PM   #54
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Re: New Project!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
"Another benefit of the deck is that protects the roof from direct sunlight= stays cooler!."

Excellent logic. If you look at the old safari built Land Rovers designed for use in Africa, they all had a double roof with an open air gap in between. No matter where you were, the actual "roof" was always in the shade! Makes huge difference.


Here is a Land Rover with double roof:
http://images.wikia.com/tractors/images ... s_1_HT.jpg
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:05 PM   #55
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Re: New Project!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex and Angie
We appreciate the concern about the structural integrity of the bus after the roof raise, but feel with the cross beams we have added, we will have no problems with the structure.

Tango, We think the advice you got from bluebird was more about liability as opposed to structural issues. We understand that our bus would not handle a roll-over situation as well as a stock school bus, but it is made of steel and not wood, so it will still be one of the strongest RV's out there.
Due to the extreme height of your bus probably a roll-over is not a high risk, most likely will just lie on it's side. But if you carry a lot of weight the structure may collapse before rolling over. Keep your center of gravity as low as possible.
Also keep in mind that not the thickness of the material but it's hardness is what you are looking for. Diagonals (or triangulation) gives more resistance everything else being equal. Ideally (but real hard to implement) X braces at four locations (ends and equally spaced within the body) across the body would give maximum protection, like a race car anti-roll cage. But it is probably overkill.
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:24 AM   #56
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Re: New Project!

Quote:
Originally Posted by pipopak
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex and Angie
We appreciate the concern about the structural integrity of the bus after the roof raise, but feel with the cross beams we have added, we will have no problems with the structure.

Tango, We think the advice you got from bluebird was more about liability as opposed to structural issues. We understand that our bus would not handle a roll-over situation as well as a stock school bus, but it is made of steel and not wood, so it will still be one of the strongest RV's out there.
Due to the extreme height of your bus probably a roll-over is not a high risk, most likely will just lie on it's side. But if you carry a lot of weight the structure may collapse before rolling over. Keep your center of gravity as low as possible.
Also keep in mind that not the thickness of the material but it's hardness is what you are looking for. Diagonals (or triangulation) gives more resistance everything else being equal. Ideally (but real hard to implement) X braces at four locations (ends and equally spaced within the body) across the body would give maximum protection, like a race car anti-roll cage. But it is probably overkill.
Quote:
but it's hardness is what you are looking for
hardness has really nothing to do with it,integrity of the material is more important ie:A36 or HRS hot rolled steel is more than likely going to be recycled material,not the purest form.And a pc of HRS and CRS(cold rolled steell) will be very close to the same "hardness", hardness doesn't come into play unless we start heat treating materials to change thier properties to better suit there needs
Speaking of integrety typical roll bar material varies with sanctioning body etc. it does not include square tubing due to round tubing being stronger and less likely to fold or kink


Quote:
like a race car anti-roll cage.
sorry that just made me laugh,every time we put a cage in something it acts like a "I want to roll bar"

I agree that a normal oops will probably result in a flop not a roll, and I'm not sure exactly what it would take to keep 18,000 lb off your head in a drop off that flops hard onto the roof.

We are planning a 12-14" raise and will keep the front cap intact and transition it to the roof for aesthetics and keeping side to side integrety factory,I actually am planning to tie in three walls side to side to act as braces,triangles are harder to collapse than squares
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Old 12-03-2011, 05:34 AM   #57
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Re: New Project!

Quote:
Originally Posted by pipopak
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
"Another benefit of the deck is that protects the roof from direct sunlight= stays cooler!."

Excellent logic. If you look at the old safari built Land Rovers designed for use in Africa, they all had a double roof with an open air gap in between. No matter where you were, the actual "roof" was always in the shade! Makes huge difference.


Here is a Land Rover with double roof:
http://images.wikia.com/tractors/images ... s_1_HT.jpg
Though I have changed my mind on roof raise, I am going to cut into the roof to build a deck for several reasons, one being the "shadow"I will appreciate while in the dessert... Thank you for that. I saw The Land Rover's second roof.. I am not sure what material to use for mine, maybe alum diamond plate, light yet strong. I don't think expanded metal would give enough shade, and wood... not sure there. If it was treated I suppose (3/4") . Need to research more ( i.e. read more on these pages )
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Old 12-04-2011, 04:02 PM   #58
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Re: New Project!

What are you going to use for insulation?
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Old 12-04-2011, 06:11 PM   #59
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Re: New Project!

This week we got all the welding done on both of the sides. We are still working on the back and the front but we want to get it mostly closed in as winter approaches. We painted the floor and the posts and we have started hanging sheet metal. We are reusing the sheet that we took down from the ceiling. The holes from where the lights were will have to be welded closed, but 4 of 10 landed in window openings so they will be cut out anyways.

http://angieandalex.blogspot.com/2011/12/sheeting.html



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Old 12-06-2011, 10:52 AM   #60
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Re: New Project!

You guys are doing a fine job in short order...
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