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Old 08-02-2015, 01:43 PM   #51
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Location: Eustis FLORIDA
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Year: 1992
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Spray bottle works great... That's what I use to put it on.
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Old 08-02-2015, 02:08 PM   #52
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I was kicking myself for killing my back bending over and brushing it on for the first application. Found the spray bottle idea after that in some forum where I was reading about Ospho. Sooooo much easier.
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Old 08-02-2015, 02:11 PM   #53
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So what do the instructions say as far as prep after treating the metal in order for paint to adhere?
I have rust under my rub rails and plan to remove them to treat the rust but want to paint after. Was going to use por15 because I have in the past and it was great. Ospho sounds like its easier to get and cheaper.
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Old 08-02-2015, 02:22 PM   #54
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From Ospho.com:
Quote:
RUSTED METALS - OSPHO is a rust-inhibiting coating - NOT A PAINT You do not have to remove tight rust. Merely remove loose paint and rust scale, dirt, oil, grease and other accumulations with a wire brush - apply a coat of OSPHO as it comes in the container - let dry overnight, then apply whatever paint system you desire. When applied to rusted surfaces, OSPHO causes iron oxide (rust) to chemically change to iron phosphate - an inert, hard substance that turns the metal black. Where rust is exceedingly heavy, two coats of OSPHO may be necessary to thoroughly penetrate and blacken the surface to be painted. A dry, powdery, grayish-white surface usually develops; this is normal - brush off any loose powder before paint application.
From reading about it on this forum: OSPHO factory response - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board , it sounds like some people have had trouble with paint not adhering because the Ospho has not completely dried. It's water based, so the water has to completely evaporate before the paint is applied. The spots where it worked on my bus look great. Hopefully it will all look the same after it has completely dried (still very tacky/wet).
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Old 08-02-2015, 03:32 PM   #55
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Its also important to brush off any heavy stuff after the ospho does its job.
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Old 08-05-2015, 03:33 PM   #56
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Took off the warning lights in the front. Now I have to figure out the best way (and material) to cover the holes with. Thinking of just getting some sheet metal ovals cut to cover two at a time and siliconing and riveting them in place.

When I disconnected the stop sign it made all the warning lights stop working, so I'm having trouble figuring out what the small lights on the top and sides are for (can't really tell if they light up during the day), anyone know if they are running lights or if they have to be removed?


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Old 08-05-2015, 04:44 PM   #57
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Year: 92
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As far as i can tell those are clearance lights so people are able to tell how wide and long you are at night, they need to stay and required by DOT standards.

Here: found this link on this forum and helped me with a lot of questions.
DOT Requirements
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Old 08-05-2015, 05:38 PM   #58
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Ya...you need running lights. Tricky part is most school buses have some really bizarre wiring layouts. Lots of safety lock outs, buzzers and all kinds of OSHA nonsense built in.

Being a truly lousy electrician, my solution would be to hire someone who really is one. And if you are lucky...you may be able to track down a wiring diagram for your make & model.

Wish I could help more, but...
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Old 08-05-2015, 06:30 PM   #59
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Join Date: Sep 2014
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Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 78
I suck with electrical stuff but I have to say my Ward/AmTran has everything numbered and color coded.
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