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Old 04-16-2016, 08:49 PM   #81
Skoolie
 
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The key hole on mine is on right side of door. Mid way up. It runs to a relay type deal that releases the locking deal to open close door.

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Old 04-16-2016, 09:16 PM   #82
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Also do people normally get the itch to get another bus before the 1st one is done? I mean man I have had some issues on the bus Brain l lock ups just flat out headaches trying to figure how things will fit / work but man is it fun. Is that why I keep reading some are on 2nd or 3rd bus or more?
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Old 04-16-2016, 09:16 PM   #83
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I'll have to check and see if they offset the locking mechanism or something. It's a mystery.
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Old 04-16-2016, 09:21 PM   #84
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When you commit your design in the bus you're currently working on, you always get better ideas or see better designs, not to mention getting better buses. They're still pretty cheap compared to anything else out there considering the amount of space.

Even in real estate, there's always a better house somewhere. Don't you have things that you'd change if you did your build again? Besides, it gets easier when it's not your first time.
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Old 04-16-2016, 09:42 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by Robin97396 View Post
I'll have to check and see if they offset the locking mechanism or something. It's a mystery.
I thought I had a picture of the door. Well I do just don't show the key hole. Its a round knob type. It had a rubber cover that screwed on but I could not get the key to work with it on. Mine is not air its all electric. Right under the arm handle for the door lock is were everything is. You can even here it click when you turn the key.

I remember a LONG time ago when I was a kid a driver of a grayhound bus showed me a button on the front of bus that looked like an emblem. Push it and it would release the lock in side. Don't know if school busses have that or not
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Old 04-16-2016, 09:45 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by Robin97396 View Post
When you commit your design in the bus you're currently working on, you always get better ideas or see better designs, not to mention getting better buses. They're still pretty cheap compared to anything else out there considering the amount of space.

Even in real estate, there's always a better house somewhere. Don't you have things that you'd change if you did your build again? Besides, it gets easier when it's not your first time.
Ya your right I just didn't expect it to come this fast.

Next one would be longer. I jumped on this one for diff issues. Don't get me wrong this one works I'd just go bigger next time.
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Old 04-17-2016, 09:29 AM   #87
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Sometimes I think I need more space, but that's a lot more area to heat up. I've had short buses and long buses, and now I'm in a medium bus. Short buses are tight to fit in, but if you get rid of the stuff you don't need it's not that bad. More space equals more junk to haul around.

I'm happy with this bus right now because it's got completely flat floors. That sure makes it easy to arrange things the way you want them instead of working around the wheel wells.
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Old 04-17-2016, 09:36 AM   #88
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Makes sense. I had the mind set of all busses are the same. Never realized till late that you can get one with a flat floor. Makes things easy. I going to try and get a couple pics up of the door lock today of how mine is.
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Old 04-17-2016, 09:42 AM   #89
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Old 04-17-2016, 09:45 AM   #90
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Bottom right is the relay I was talking about. It lifts the lock deal just enough to get the handle out when you pull on the outside of the door
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Old 04-17-2016, 10:26 AM   #91
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My front door has a locking mechanism that only locks from the outside. I have to tie the door shut during storms to try to keep it closed, unless I lock it from the outside.

I'd throw in some pics but I haven't been able to find my charger for the camera for several months.
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Old 04-19-2016, 09:34 AM   #92
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
most often seat belts are anchored through the floor and underneath you use a Seat belt washer.. its a large and heavy washer.. you want the belts anchored securely and not just to the seat itself...

-Christopher
Is it a certain type of washer you have to use? I ask because I bought some used seat belts out of an old motorhome. Belts look really good. Bolts and washer are decent with some rust. I wanted to replace the nuts/bolts/washers and would replace with heavy duty but I didn't know if it was special ones or not.

Thank you
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Old 04-19-2016, 09:44 AM   #93
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Not a problem. I also don't understand why they were unable to find replacement door gaskets. It seem like that type of item would be common.

Like anyone here, I'm just interested in seeing how you deal with your door.

.
So I called a bus part place and they told me they only stock 90 to 1999 year they don't make the 2002 version

The place I got the bus said the part I need is the same single piece for the bifold door


I think I'm going to go to my local school bus barn and see what they say
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Old 04-22-2016, 08:48 AM   #94
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I'm looking at doing a custom size shower base. Iv done a search but its hit and miss. Does tile and groute work on a bus/rv? The bus will move and a get that so is there anything (special product) that will help so groute and tile can flex a little if possible? If not is there anything else a guy could use that is reasonable price easy to make that will hold water?
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Old 04-22-2016, 08:56 AM   #95
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I think that even the two-part epoxy grout would eventually fail unless the base was something like three inches of laminated marine ply and somehow isolated with dampeners. The vibrations and flexing that take place in a skoolie chassis are just too much for most such materials. Fiberglass is probably the best bet as it is pretty much monolithic and has some measure flexibility. At least that's what I plan to try. My combo shower/toilet is being constructed from two laminated layers of 1/2" marine ply and will then be glassed over on the inside. Time will tell, I guess.
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Old 04-22-2016, 09:13 AM   #96
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Originally Posted by Robin97396 View Post
Side question; how do you get that door open? There's no handle. There's nothing wrong with my bus yet, but I figure I should know how to get that door open at some point before something does happen.
My guess is this question was about the electrical panel access door, and the topic went right over some heads lol!
My bus has a lever inside near the drivers seat, on the side of the electrical center. Maybe that's where your's is.
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Old 04-22-2016, 09:30 AM   #97
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My guess is this question was about the electrical panel access door, and the topic went right over some heads lol!
My bus has a lever inside near the drivers seat, on the side of the electrical center. Maybe that's where your's is.
Well that would suck because that would be me that went over the head

And for that door its a key lock outside the bus as well with a push in handle.
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Old 04-22-2016, 09:33 AM   #98
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I think that even the two-part epoxy grout would eventually fail unless the base was something like three inches of laminated marine ply and somehow isolated with dampeners. The vibrations and flexing that take place in a skoolie chassis are just too much for most such materials. Fiberglass is probably the best bet as it is pretty much monolithic and has some measure flexibility. At least that's what I plan to try. My combo shower/toilet is being constructed from two laminated layers of 1/2" marine ply and will then be glassed over on the inside. Time will tell, I guess.
That's what I was thinking. Just wasn't sure if anyone tryed and had any luck. I keep forgetting about fiberglass. Never used it either but I will definitely look into it.

Thank you.
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Old 04-22-2016, 09:36 AM   #99
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I have seen many counter tops finished in small tile using the epoxy grout but just would not trust it to "hold water". And BTW...I HATE working with fiberglass.
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Old 04-22-2016, 09:41 AM   #100
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We just recently finished our bathroom floor in our bus with tile. I bought a silicon based grout for flexibility from a pool supply company. I have not moved the bus since, so we will see how it comes out.
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