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Old 04-13-2016, 01:11 PM   #61
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Robin97396

I wasn't offended at all.

Very good!

Advice is worth what you pay for it. Everybody here has an opinion and what matters is your opinion.

Its hard to tell sometimes if there is attitude or not when reading on the web. There is a lot of opinions and knowledge on this site alone and a lot of respect given to both. I really don't feel the need to tic people off and get booted off.

There is so many doors alike I would never thought it would be hard to find parts.


Also, the two door pieces affixed together were reported to make one heavy damn door.

This is the part I would open the door for the 1st time and watch it fall off. (Just my luck)

Thank you tho for the info
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Old 04-13-2016, 01:18 PM   #62
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Not a problem. I also don't understand why they were unable to find replacement door gaskets. It seem like that type of item would be common.

Like anyone here, I'm just interested in seeing how you deal with your door.

Honestly a lot of people tell me I write angry sounding. Nothing was meant that way from me either.

Good luck with your build.
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Old 04-13-2016, 01:43 PM   #63
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All good on my end. I checked with the place I got the bus from as they sell parts too. Apparent I had my head somewhere other than were it needed to be and asked for the wrong door. I asked for the bifold type door I have the split door (2) anyway anyone who has a bifold door from international its a single piece seal and this company price is $158.?? So now I'm waiting on a reply from them for my door
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Old 04-13-2016, 01:58 PM   #64
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Something else I forgot to include about the door reconstruction I was speaking about was these doors had pneumatics that could be reconfigured for opening and closing the larger door.

On another thread someone even made a back door that was nearly to the roof out of an extra back door.

I can see the impracticality of rebuilding the front door into one solid door, although they did say it sealed way better than the original design. One also mentioned that he preferred to retain the skoolie look on the door, not to mention the visibility it provided.

I like lots of glass for out in the boonies, but damn it's difficult to heat in the winter with all this glass. I should have jumped on that suggestion to cut rigid insulation to put in the windows.
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Old 04-16-2016, 09:48 AM   #65
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Needing some help. Every now and then I fire the bus up and it fires just fine. The problem I have is it all the dome lights / clearance lights / heater toggles even the fans for driver will not work. Radio will. If radio is on and you turn anything els on radio goes off and nothing will work. Use to be wait a little for the length of time to build air everything would start working. Air is built and I just went through all the toggles and everything just kicked on. This usually happens in cooler weather. Is that a norm? Everything need to warm up. I wouldn't think so but 1st bus so still learning.

Thanks
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Old 04-16-2016, 10:12 AM   #66
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Sounds like either fuses are blown or an alternator issue. What's the voltmeter read when running?
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Old 04-16-2016, 01:23 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooternj View Post
Sounds like either fuses are blown or an alternator issue. What's the voltmeter read when running?

Volts run right at 14. Amps run at 0
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Old 04-16-2016, 01:33 PM   #68
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It sounds as if you have a problem with getting juice to the control panel.

Most of the time power arrives there through a relay. If no juice leaves the key switch going to the relay you will not get any juice to the panel.

The radio because it has to have juice all the time in order to keep the pre-sets will have a different power source.

As to why the amount of air pressure makes a difference as to why the panel will work or not work I have no idea. In some motorcoaches the alternator has an air operated tensioner. Until the air pressure builds up to tension the belt to the alternator many of the systems will not operate. I think they are set up that way so that if you lose the alternator some systems, like the coach A/C, will shut down allowing you to get to somewhere safe on battery power instead of running until you are completely out of juice.
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Old 04-16-2016, 01:55 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach View Post
It sounds as if you have a problem with getting juice to the control panel.

Most of the time power arrives there through a relay. If no juice leaves the key switch going to the relay you will not get any juice to the panel.

The radio because it has to have juice all the time in order to keep the pre-sets will have a different power source.

As to why the amount of air pressure makes a difference as to why the panel will work or not work I have no idea. In some motorcoaches the alternator has an air operated tensioner. Until the air pressure builds up to tension the belt to the alternator many of the systems will not operate. I think they are set up that way so that if you lose the alternator some systems, like the coach A/C, will shut down allowing you to get to somewhere safe on battery power instead of running until you are completely out of juice.
Sorry for the confusing. Im not sure the air pressure has anything to do with it. I ment for it as a time reference. In the amount of time it takes for the air to build stuff starts working.

Radio makes sense.
Would lower temp or any moisture in air have anything to do with it? I will look for the relay though.
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Old 04-16-2016, 02:31 PM   #70
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Lower temp or higher humidity may be just a happenstance.

Although, while both will increase resistance, I doubt either one is in play in this case.
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