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03-31-2016, 03:30 PM
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#41
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kansas
Posts: 492
Year: 2000
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: Your mom +1
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For the floor I used 2" rigid foam under 1 1/2" rigid foam, so 3 1/2" in the floor. Foil side facing the interior. For the walls I did two layers of 1 1/2" and for the ceiling I'll be doing the same as the floor only with the foil facing the exterior of the bus... Seems to me alot of heat gain would come from the sun on the metal roof. The foil should help reflect some heat, that's my rational for the foil side facing out on the ceiling. I used the r-tech brand which has the foil on one side and a vapor barrier on the other.
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03-31-2016, 06:02 PM
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#42
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 237
Year: 2002
Chassis: international
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azuleslight
to me it is a good option as it is a form of vapor barrier but still allows room to breathe. I will personally be doing a combination of foam board and the reflective. The best option if you are planning to live in the schooly full time and in cold climates is the highest r-value you can get for a reasonable price.
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So you will be doing the same as slaughridge85 with doubling up on foam board and foil?
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03-31-2016, 06:08 PM
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#43
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Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: chicago, il
Posts: 220
Year: 2003
Chassis: IC CE
Engine: T444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by livinthelife
So you will be doing the same as slaughridge85 with doubling up on foam board and foil?
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yeap, that is the plan. The r-14 value makes even the smallest heating viable.
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04-12-2016, 09:25 PM
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#44
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 237
Year: 2002
Chassis: international
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
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got it all cleaned up
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04-12-2016, 09:29 PM
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#45
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 237
Year: 2002
Chassis: international
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
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all primed up holes covered. The holes are covered with the wall pieces with flashing sealant and then the weight of everything push and hold down.
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04-12-2016, 09:31 PM
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#46
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 237
Year: 2002
Chassis: international
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
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Got the foam and floor down. Going with the floating type floor. Used 1" foil foam on floor and walls.
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04-12-2016, 09:32 PM
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#47
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 237
Year: 2002
Chassis: international
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
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04-12-2016, 09:33 PM
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#48
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 237
Year: 2002
Chassis: international
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
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04-12-2016, 09:38 PM
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#49
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 237
Year: 2002
Chassis: international
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
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So that's what we have got done. Laying out the floor plan now on the floor.
I know I saw it some were but what is the best way for bolting down seat belts say at the kitchen table? I have a couple car seats that need to have seat belts.
Also on the front door its a two piece door. were can a guy go to get a new seal for the center of the two when they close together?
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04-12-2016, 09:49 PM
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#50
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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Some people have fastened the two door sections together so it opens like a regular door with a handle. It's hard to find a door with good visibility and re-manufacturing your original doors, while heavy, keeps the look while allowing you to seal the door properly.
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04-12-2016, 09:57 PM
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#51
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 237
Year: 2002
Chassis: international
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396
Some people have fastened the two door sections together so it opens like a regular door with a handle. It's hard to find a door with good visibility and re-manufacturing your original doors, while heavy, keeps the look while allowing you to seal the door properly.
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I'm after the rubber seal that goes in between the two when they close. I'm not looking to make one door. The old seal is coming apart at the bottom so just want to replace it.
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04-12-2016, 10:13 PM
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#52
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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Understood.
I'm just telling you how some other people solved the problem after not being able to get the replacement items they wanted to make their door seal better.
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04-12-2016, 10:31 PM
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#53
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 237
Year: 2002
Chassis: international
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
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I gotcha. I thought there would be a surplus store I haven't found yet that have reasonable prices.
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04-13-2016, 10:13 AM
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#54
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 447
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Ward
Chassis: International
Engine: Navistar 5.9 Diesel
Rated Cap: A butt-load...
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Very nice!
Quote:
Originally Posted by livinthelife
So that's what we have got done. Laying out the floor plan now on the floor.
I know I saw it some were but what is the best way for bolting down seat belts say at the kitchen table? I have a couple car seats that need to have seat belts.
Also on the front door its a two piece door. were can a guy go to get a new seal for the center of the two when they close together?
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Very nice and clean slate!
I'm also interested in how everyone attaches seat belts to available seat/chairs/sofas/etc...my bus will only have a loveseat style couch, so not much seating, so my idea was to either bolt through the floor, extend with strap, attach belt, pass from underneath and through couch fabric.
I'm also considering bolting down the couch as firmly as possible, then attach the seatbelts directly onto it. That might be easier, but might be not as safe as my option#1.
What has anyone else done, so far?
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04-13-2016, 10:49 AM
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#55
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,760
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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most often seat belts are anchored through the floor and underneath you use a Seat belt washer.. its a large and heavy washer.. you want the belts anchored securely and not just to the seat itself...
-Christopher
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04-13-2016, 10:51 AM
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#56
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 447
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Ward
Chassis: International
Engine: Navistar 5.9 Diesel
Rated Cap: A butt-load...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
most often seat belts are anchored through the floor and underneath you use a Seat belt washer.. its a large and heavy washer.. you want the belts anchored securely and not just to the seat itself...
-Christopher
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yep, i thought so...
good point on the washers!
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04-13-2016, 12:26 PM
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#57
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 237
Year: 2002
Chassis: international
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
most often seat belts are anchored through the floor and underneath you use a Seat belt washer.. its a large and heavy washer.. you want the belts anchored securely and not just to the seat itself...
-Christopher
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I thought that might be the way. I figured I'd buy the whole seat belt assembly but now I know to look for the washer.
Thank you
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04-13-2016, 12:34 PM
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#58
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 237
Year: 2002
Chassis: international
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396
Understood.
I'm just telling you how some other people solved the problem after not being able to get the replacement items they wanted to make their door seal better.
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I hope you you understand that there was no attitude behind my comment just poor choice in wording in the reply. Sorry if thats how it was taken.
I never thought about doing that with the door. I will keep that in mind if I am unlucky to find what I'm looking for.
Thanks again.
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04-13-2016, 12:54 PM
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#59
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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I wasn't offended at all. Advice is worth what you pay for it. Everybody here has an opinion and what matters is your opinion.
The individuals that did that modification I spoke of simply weren't able to find replacement parts for their bus doors, then couldn't find a replacement door with adequate windows. Other people don't feel that they need that much glass or a metal door to deal with because of the insulation properties. Also, the two door pieces affixed together were reported to make one heavy damn door, but they both said it worked nice when finished. This was just something I read on an old thread.
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04-13-2016, 12:58 PM
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#60
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 237
Year: 2002
Chassis: international
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skoolie_n00bie
Very nice and clean slate!
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Thank you. Now its the fun part of laying things out. Slowly starting to see it take shape.
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