OTIS the 6.2 92 bluebird

TimeTraveler · 11-08-2016, 02:17 AM

New user here!

Just picked up a Bus, first time owner and very excited to renew this beast!

1992 Chevy 6.2 Diesel P30 Blue Bird. Name:OTIS

picked up this bus for $1000 only has 72,500 miles and already set up with the grease-car kit setup with a 25 Gal. steel tank.

Plans: Gut & remodel to live in, travel, and sell our ideas out of.

Here are some pictures we already tore the inside out and carpet up, someone glues the carpet pad down and it was a PAIN to get all that out.

so got the bus and very excited to remodel it and turn it into our home!
the first day we picked it up, i took the guys word for it since i checked the veggie tank and it was full i assumed the diesel tank was full as well.. although i cannot say for sure whether it was or was not full its hard to tell because i found some issues with the bus on the drive home of course..

picked up bus, just left the place i noticed the bus seemed very very slow, after looking into it a bit more pretty sure that's just these motors in general and not going to be able to keep up highway speeds, but i was able to maintain about 65 mph after i felt comfortable pushing it that hard, it was louder than hell! partly because the exhaust is so rusted and hanging from underneath..

about an hour and half from home the bus stalls out and lost power, im out of fuel.. this is my first diesel and i know they are hard to get started back up after running dry.. first issue was since i ran it completely out of fuel it created a vacuum so when i went to put more fuel in, it would only hold about a gallon in the fill tube before it was "full" fixed the issue by opening up my breather tube for my tank, woohoo! added 10 gallons od fuel. made sure my fuel filter was full and all my lines were full before even attempting to start the bus again..

turned over the bus and no fire would not fire at all, no fuel was going through the pump. i was stumbled.. pulled my lines tried it again, after so many attempts i gave up and left the bus on the highway overnight, onto the next day i came back and pulled my fuel pump off and had to reset my pin somehow or another the pin got logged underneath actuator for the mechanical pump so it was not pumping fuel at all.. i got the pump installed and after a few hard cranks and tries i got Otis started again!!! YES

drove him back home and parked till the next day, i noticed on my way home that night there was a LOT of smoke, which when i picked the bus up there was no smoke at all, i was worried with my use of ether it ruined my heads or something.. so i started the bus the next day again and ran it parked it in a better spot to gut the insides and while i had the bus idling i noticed a heavy fuel smell, looked unerneath and saw a line of fuel pissing from injector #8, my fuel line to 8 was ripped (maybe this is why i ran Otis out of fuel

) hmm i wonder..

well i just replaced two lines so far tonight and got him running great again no smoke and back to how i wanted him..

will add more as we renovate and do more, i have a few more pictures that we took today of painting and plan on working on him tomorrow aswell!

if you have any ideas, pointers, things to look out for let me know!!
THANKS.

TimeTraveler · 11-08-2016, 02:22 AM

also if anyone could help me figure out what kind of transmission i have and my rear end that would be awesome, im going to climb underneath and take a peak tomorrow

cowlitzcoach · 11-08-2016, 02:40 AM

The vintage and the shift selector suggest either a 700R4 or an early 4L60 transmission.

The rear end is a standard GM heavy duty light duty axle. It was used in a jillion motorhomes and bread trucks. There should be a tag on the case somewhere that will give the rear end ratio.

In my experience, 60-65 MPH was about all that engine could move buses of that size. It wasn't a matter of running out of engine RPM's limiting the top speed. It was a matter of the engine ran out of go long before it hit the rev limiter.

M1031A1 · 11-08-2016, 04:39 AM

I have an M1031 that has the same set up. Top speed is 62 m.p.h. 6.2L, but the three speed tranny, not the 700R4. She has torque but not power. She'll pull well up to about 55 m.p.h. After that, she just complains. The 6.2L is a tough little diesel engine. Maintained properly, it'll outlast your lifetime. Good score!

M

TimeTraveler · 11-09-2016, 12:19 AM

I believe its three speed that is all i can feel it shift. I'm actually very pleased with the drive-ability of this bus for the given price and that it has only drove 300 miles since 2008.

I got it up to about 70mph i believe on the way home. it was definitely maxed out there was very loud but most of which was exhaust issues I'm thinking.

We started to tear of the floor today and got down to the plywood, most of the plywood was actually in "decent" shape enough to sand down and make new again, other than the back 10ft of the bus floor, was pretty bad. once i have the floor taken out, we would like to conquer the side walls and ceiling of the bus to re insulate them.. that being said, once drilling out the rivets and removing the panels, what is the best way to go for insulation?? how difficult is it to keep the sheet metal re-usable, we plan on having a wood stove in there for heat, and not going to be traveling in areas to freezing but we never really know where we will end up, "wondering wanderers"

we don't have much for supplies so far as we just purchased the bus last week. but plan on gathering as much reclaimed material as possible for the build. (pallets, barn wood, rv toilet, scrap plywood, glass sheets, waste vegetable oil, firewood, misc items you know) not that we cant afford it but we are just that way, why spend money when you can re-purpose and re-use!

i went to move my grease tank today and just seemed way to much of a hassle than i wanted to deal with at this time, i got one heater hose disconnected and went to the other that had a fuel line running through it and said eff it..

the total build time we are hoping to achieve is three months.

will add pic in morning

xrolo98 · 11-09-2016, 12:34 AM

That is by far the most interesting looking "modern" shorty I've ever seen. Nice find!

cadillackid · 11-09-2016, 07:28 AM

nice bus!! i love those mini birds.. I almost bought one earlier this year..!

that should be an OD transmissions are you running it in D or circle D?

previous post is right that should be a late 700R4 or an early 4L60 in that.. if the shift cable is adjusted wrong in a 700 or 4L60 it will not shift into overdrive correctly.. or shifts in too early and burns up the 3/4 clutches turning it into a 3 speed..

you should feel three shifts... 1-2,2-3,3-4

-Christopher

Carytowncat · 11-09-2016, 08:52 AM

Welcome! Otis is beautiful

Congrats on getting the fuel pump fixed. Looks like a fun build.

TimeTraveler · 11-09-2016, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadillackid

nice bus!! i love those mini birds.. I almost bought one earlier this year..!

that should be an OD transmissions are you running it in D or circle D?

previous post is right that should be a late 700R4 or an early 4L60 in that.. if the shift cable is adjusted wrong in a 700 or 4L60 it will not shift into overdrive correctly.. or shifts in too early and burns up the 3/4 clutches turning it into a 3 speed..

you should feel three shifts... 1-2,2-3,3-4

-Christopher

i think that may be happening, I'm driving in circle D, thanks for clarifying that, ill go out in a minute and verify the Tran.. but to me it sounds and feels like i have three gears and doesn't want to shift into OD. i thought that the second i got otis.

Tiff wanted to paint the front and back of the bus before it got to cold to be painting outside, so for now the front and back are getting chalkboard paint, while i tear up the inside floors.

picture of the paint so far and add pics from interior in a little while!

as for that fuel pump,, damn that stumped me for well over a day, and i still cannot grasp my head around how that pin would have logged underneath the mechanical actuator for the fuel pump. i talked to a buddy of mine and he wasn't sure how that happens either but it happened when he ran out of fuel once as well..

thanks for replies!!

TimeTraveler · 11-09-2016, 06:02 PM

so Tiff got the back fully Chalkboard painted on the first coat, with me working overnights its a little difficult getting up before the butt-crack of 2pm lol so we work with little daylight and long nights.

I got part of the plywood torn up and not happy about all this rust but i figure a little light buffing with a pad and my peanut grinder wont be able to handle then just Cover it up with a galvanizing zinc paint.. it what i have handy.. (thoughts?)

I plan on leaving the very front part of the bus with the old plywood solely because of the damn grease tank already installed and full.. when i purchased the bus the guy put a full tank of WVO in, so i don't really want to go through the hassle of draining it, plus i like the location, we plan on putting our kitchen around there so figured heat source would keep it extra warm with the already heated hoses running through the tank.

upload pictures later

TimeTraveler · 11-09-2016, 09:43 PM

didnt notice this till going to upload but you can see all three vehicles from this onc picture, the 84 G20 van thats still trucking along, the 84 SAAB 900 that is the gas sipper, then the new bus

and as for what rear end and transmission i have.... i got underneath today and couldn't find any tag on the rear end at all, and for the transmission i found a metal plate that at one point im sure told me what i had but its no longer there.. so the only ID i was able to pull from trans was hydromatic 8677104..

i felt the bus shift into OD once when i went for a jont to the gas station. other than that i feel it shift from 1-2 then 2-3, and then no more shifting and driving at 60-65 is do able but loud af. i did however feel it go from 3-OD once but that was when warming up for sure. it wouldn't go back in though..

the girlfriend said to me it sounds like the motor is going to blow up(because of how loud it was) two minutes later doing 60 and the engine bay cover flew right off and she goes SEE i told you! haha i just laughed because i forgot to clamp it down before we left so all the wind blew it right out!

cadillackid · 11-10-2016, 08:24 AM

if you are going to OD when the transmission is cold but not going in warm it can be man y things, however thats the way a burnt 3/4 clutch pack will do..

but before it comes to that look under the hood and make sure that shift cable is attached.. and then adjust it...it should be a second cable attached to the throttle bracket I believe.. I dont think on that engine they were attached to the Accelerator pedal itself... been a while since i worked on one..

are your other shifts early or late? meaning does it seem to stay in the same gear too long before shifting?

also Rather than rely on the dash indicator for the gear you are in, count the clicks from Park to Circle D.. once - R, twice - N, 3rd click should be Circle D... (regardless of the needle on the shift indicator)

the 700 / 4L60 will still shift to OD even if its in regular D and you run it up to the redline... its a safety mechanism in many older automatics...

-Christopher

TimeTraveler · 11-15-2016, 02:14 PM

so question i found a site that has the chassis manual for p series and g series...

my question is my gear ratio regarding my vin

my vin is 1GBKP32J8N3303193

according to this my GVWR is 14,001 to 16,000

and this here pictures shows my rear end ratio according to GVWR.

6.2L DDAD motor.

so this shows to my knowledge that my rear end is 5.13* at 14,000 GCWR? with the asterisk stating( *motor home chassis only.)

the link to my decoding information and rear end is on this link, page 11 & 12.. and if this information is correct with a 5.13 rear end would going to a 4.10 or 4.56 help me lower rpm at 60-65 mph?

almost done with the floor should be finished tonight and will upload pictures when done!

Tango · 11-15-2016, 02:27 PM

Below is a gear/rpm calculator to play number games with. Should tell you what you need to know but you will need the tire diameter/radius.

Engine RPM Calculator

TimeTraveler · 11-15-2016, 02:33 PM

thanks Tango! i should have of thought of to look something like that up

*edit in regards to the correct rear end with my GVWR as opposed to the GCWR. am i reading that correctly? my VIN states my GVWR is 14,001 to 16,000, but this chart shows GCWR ratings and only goes up to 14,000 for the 6.2L

Tango · 11-15-2016, 03:01 PM

They are indeed two separate sets of numbers. The GC("combined")AW is for towing. The GVAW is only applicable for non towing. The combined number will always be a bit lower due to the added tow weight and drag.

cowlitzcoach · 11-15-2016, 04:24 PM

Going to the lower number numerically will reduce the engine speed for the same wheel speed.

However, by going to a higher speed rear end you are going to be losing some of the low end grunt which you will still need.

In my experience with 6.2L equipped P-series chassis Type 'B' buses is they still had a lot of RPM's left before redline when going 55 MPH but they were all running out of HP. Going to a higher speed rear end you could actually lower the top speed due to the lack of HP and torque necessary to push that brick through the air and down the road.

Even the 6.5L equipped buses were good to 60 MPH but at every little hill the transmission kicked down out of OD and could not maintain the speed with any sort of load in the bus.

TimeTraveler · 11-15-2016, 06:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach

Going to the lower number numerically will reduce the engine speed for the same wheel speed.

However, by going to a higher speed rear end you are going to be losing some of the low end grunt which you will still need.

In my experience with 6.2L equipped P-series chassis Type 'B' buses is they still had a lot of RPM's left before redline when going 55 MPH but they were all running out of HP. Going to a higher speed rear end you could actually lower the top speed due to the lack of HP and torque necessary to push that brick through the air and down the road.

Even the 6.5L equipped buses were good to 60 MPH but at every little hill the transmission kicked down out of OD and could not maintain the speed with any sort of load in the bus.

thanks guy! i mainly think alot of my issue is that i don't think my transmissions going into OD. the hydramatic 8677104 which when i look that up im not getting a solid answer but looking like the 4L80E which should have the OD but i only get a shift from 1-2, then 2-3.

TimeTraveler · 11-16-2016, 05:23 PM

so with working so damn much its hard to get a good day in on the bus!

But i finally got all the rust buffed out of the floors! was a very long tedious task using only a peanut grinder.

and I'm finally 100% about transmission i have since there are no markings on the transmission its self, i found a handy website that tells you what kind of trans is installed by the amount of pan bolts you have.

Identify Your Transmission, Transmission Lookup, Transmission specs, GM transmission lookup, 700r4 diagram, 4l60e diagram, th350 diagram, 4l80e diagram, e4od diagram, 4r100 diagram, Transmission identification

4L80E has 17 pan bolts and the 4L60E has 16 pan bolts.. thus being said ill go in and adjust the linkage make sure it has 7 positions (P,R,N,OD,D,2,1)
which i believe i would still be correct that i don't think its my linkage that is not allowing me to go into overdrive because i feel all 7 positions when using my shift lever..

used the zinc compound first then a rust protectant for the final layer

i chose the leave the very front plywood there because of the grease tank being full with 40Gal, and not having anywhere to store it at the moment. hopefully this doesn't come bite me in the ass later.. the plywood looked to still be in decent enough shape and not rotted anywhere so I'm gambling this..

Next order of business i believe is to get in the side panels and re insulate.. to my knowledge, I'm going to drill the centers out of the rivets and pull away from the shell.. and insulate. I'm not scared of this, but how much of a pain in the ass is it to re-rivet and re-install the panels again??

AlleyCat67 · 11-16-2016, 06:53 PM

Most people don't. They do the side walls with wood, either securing wood to the ribs, or install runners down the length of the bus and secure their outer wood covering to that.

I'm not sure you COULD reuse the sheet metal that came off... I guess it would depend on how much damage you did to it taking it off, and what the condition of the inside surface is.

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