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Old 02-13-2018, 12:59 PM   #141
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And I'll second ECCB's recommendation...silicone is not for automotive use. Use an OEM type Seam Sealer. It is urethane and will not only seal better but will last the life of the vehicle and is fully paintable. Can be found at any auto paint supply or online. 3M and others make it.
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Old 02-13-2018, 01:40 PM   #142
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Is SS and regular steel "close enough" to negate the issue of differences? I don't mind ordering a bunch of SS rivets, they sure didn't have them locally.
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Old 02-13-2018, 02:12 PM   #143
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One thing most forget about when considering galvanic corrosion is the need for an electrolyte in the equation. As long as things are dry you most likely won't see much of a corrosion issue. It's in wet environments involving conductive fluids that can become problematic. Salt water is especially problematic and might be an issue if driving on thawed salted roads and splash wetting things down. Fresh water causes hardly any galvanic action, depending on the mineral content, due to it's relatively low conductivity. Remember also, that the more "noble" a metal the less it want's to give off it's electrons. Zinc (galvanizing metal) is lower on the noble scale than is aluminum (albeit only slightly) and aluminum only slightly less than mild steel. The more voltage potential, the more possibility for corrosion. I really don't think you're going to see much of a problem with aluminum rivets in galvanized (zinc) metal especially if it's not structural in any way. That being said, you can never go wrong using stainless steel rivets.
Here's a link to a chart that can help: http://www.designbyinitiative.com/fi...anic_Table.pdf

I'd be more concerned using an alkyd/oil primer on galvanized steel and saponification causing the primer to ultimately not bond well. Better to use an acrylic primer on galvanized metal.

https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/ask-sherwin-williams/problem-solver/peeling-cracking/peeling-from-galvanized-metal
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Old 02-17-2018, 03:47 AM   #144
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I got the HF rivet gun and several boxes of rivets. So far we've used about 60 of them doing the one window and the floor. We've already painted the floor and we're using aluminum rivets so the sealer is just to 100% make sure water stays out, i assume my next layer will be rigid foam insulation right on top of it.

With regards to the bamboo flooring, mostly I'm reading bad things about using it if you don't have humidity control. They go as far as saying to lay the planks out for days before installing them so they can pre-swell before you lay them down, that's just not compatible with us driving around the country.

Roll floor pretty much stays the same level of "meh" no matter what.
If I remove the bus windows prior to covering with sheet metal is it going to affect the structural integrity of the walls?

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Old 02-17-2018, 09:01 AM   #145
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If I remove the bus windows prior to covering with sheet metal is it going to affect the structural integrity of the walls?

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No.

However, you will want to make sure there is zero twist in the frame before sheeting with new steel. So have the bus firmly planted, straight and level.

Velocipedic drove his 1500 miles home with no windows, to no apparent ill-effect.
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Old 02-17-2018, 07:17 PM   #146
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Well connected sheet metal should provide way more structural support than the windows ever did... I don't believe the windows provided any meaningful amount of structure.
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Old 03-05-2018, 12:28 PM   #147
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Finally back to the big bus. Our last adventure had us gone for 2.5 weeks as we went to the Skoolie Swarm and spent some tie working on our boat and getting rid of things that are holding us down...

So the first thing I notice when I get back is that somehow or another there was a dead bird inside the bus. Two of the windows were a notch down and that's probably enough room for a birdie to get in, but seems odd that it didn't use the same opening to go live a happy bird life instead of giving up the ghost on my entry stairs!

I use my shiny new 20 ton bottle jack to life both front wheels. My understanding is that wheels wiggle a lot if the kingpins are worn, and they didn't really wiggle. That doesn't explain my absurdly worn tire, but I'll be calling a few tire shops to see if anyone can do an alignment on a bluebird. That tire has got to go!

I don't have stainless rivets yet. I need to measure thickness of metals so I know which grip size I should be buying, instead of just grabbing whatever was on the shelf. Until I have the new ones I'll need to spend my time on other parts.

With that said, I'm working up to pulling out the radiator. I need to flush the coolant anyway, that should really simplify changing the alternator, and give me an opportunity to fix the KDP.
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Old 03-05-2018, 12:32 PM   #148
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Regarding the KDP...the shop I worked with on my engine (Diesel Specialists, Inc.) strongly recommended simply peening the outer edge of the offending hole. Most folks construct a tab that screws in place but their view was that was simply something else that could wind up in the gears.

Made sense to me so I had it peened.
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Old 03-05-2018, 02:48 PM   #149
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Old 03-05-2018, 03:22 PM   #150
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Haven't you ever had Long Pig?!
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