Out with the old, in with the new 7 window

[lornaschinske]

Our Eagle did the same to my Dad (face full of smoke) when we first brought it home. We took it to a good diesel mechanic and he adjusted the fuel injectors. There again, it had sat for a while and the mechanic said it just needed to be adjusted and run. He said diesels just like to run. It may just really need to get good and hot a few times, burn off the cobwebs so to speak. I would find a good diesel mechanic and let him look at it before you get too far into it.

[MoliskaDutch]

I know I should take it to a mechanic (at least in the beginning) but I do intend on working on it myself. I have done so with all other vehicles, even if maintenance is required on the side of the road (I always travel with ALL my tools). I hope to get some type of a Chilton for this bus. I looked for one for my last bus and found it difficult or expensive. I would like to do a tuneup and fluid swap where I can. The guy I bought it from gave me the new electrical feeds (plastic and brittle) for the glow plugs.
Last night I tried to shut all the windows and ran into a problem with one... don't hammer off the rivets with the windows down!! (I got it out eventually but it was a pain)



Also, painted and calked some holes in the floor. Ended up just doing areas I wanted to build on for now.



Did a shelf with wide lumber. All the materials are reused from my other bus or from other projects.

[schoolmarm]

Where is this lift located, I would be interested if you would like to donate it to someone that could use it and you are not too far away.

[lapeer20m]

I dislike rivets. I have used them to reinstall ceiling panels, but I much prefer sheet metal screws. Sure there are they naysayers that screws will come loose. Never an issue for me. Many buses are built with screws instead of rivets.

[Diesel Dan]

Originally Posted by MoliskaDutch

Just want to put this out there if anyone has any ideas...
As you may have read previously: I have a 1992 7.3l non-turbo international 7 window carpenter.
So, we drove it home (it is was a 170 mile trip) and there were three vehicles always in this order: First = lil buck (slow Toyota pick-up, 55 max usually), Second= the bus, Third = Adam's truck (Mazda pick-up)..
When lil buck was going slowly (55mph) on an Ozark mountain down hill, and the bus had to let off the gas to slow and match pace with lil buck.. Adam got a huge plume of black, diesel smelling, smoke in the face. And, the bus got horrible gas mileage.
Question:
Is there a fuel return delivery problem, and fuel dumps out the exhaust??? The folks we bought it from had to change the fuel pump in the tank. It wouldn't stay running past the fuel dumped into the filters.
{also, very curious about the "throttle" pull... could it have been in the wrong position or something? When it is depressed it seems to be idling too low. And the guy we bought it from drove it with it completely pulled outward so it was left the same, i think.}
Thanks for the input, I'm a newbie when it comes to diesels that's for sure.

I have the same engine in my pickup truck. So what exactly was the mpg? Aside from poor fuel economy, is it also running rough? Hard starting? You have mechanical injectors which are fed by a rotary injection pump. I would pull the injectors, take them apart, clean them up, reassemble, and then take them to a shop to get them tested as the first step. This is a relatively easy job. Once you either verify the injectors are good, or put new ones in, then re-assess performance. If still bad, I would move on to the injection pump as the next possible culprit. When I have injection pump issues, I take it to the shop, so I can't offer you much advice about that.

[roach711]

Check out the Ford Powerstroke forums. They may have an answer for you. The Ford powerstroke is made by International if memory serves so it's likely most engine parts will be the same.

[Diesel Dan]

Originally Posted by roach711

Check out the Ford Powerstroke forums. They may have an answer for you. The Ford powerstroke is made by International if memory serves so it's likely most engine parts will be the same.

The Powerstroke is a very different animal - it has electronic fuel injection for one thing, and therefore no injection pump. In terms of troubleshooting fuel problems, I don't think there is much similarity other than the fact they are both diesels. But some Powerstroke owners may have previously had a pre-Powerstroke Navistar engine, so I guess it couldn't hurt to ask. Unfortunately, I've not found a good internet forum for the pre-Powerstroke Navistar diesel engines. I guess they are just not so common anymore since they haven't been produced since the mid-1990's.

[nat_ster]

I will sell you a 5.9 Cummins to replace it with.

Just kidding. Good luck. You will figure it out.

nat

[MoliskaDutch]

well, it finally quit raining here. Not that I'm cursing it, because we desperately needed it... It just makes busing difficult
So. I have started to frame in the kitchen area. It is coming along slowly.. Most of the time it is one board an hour. I am trying have the forethought for every detail so as to make the finish work much easier.



I changed the nasty 16qt of oil and new filter included in the sale. Before oil change you would turn the key and it would start in "One-One-thousand" count... NOW, its click-voom!! sound has less clatter too, I know diesels sound like they are gonna clank apart but it sounds smoother. Very pleased.

Still don't know about the fuel out the exhaust. It's not tagged yet so... illegal to drive. I hope to get it renovated and inspected for a motor home title within the next few weeks, and then complete tune-up I'm thinking..

[PDBreske]

Originally Posted by MoliskaDutch

I am trying have the forethought for every detail so as to make the finish work much easier.

I'm the same way. Instead of thinking one or two steps ahead, I'm trying to think every step ahead so I don't have to un-do anything I've done. This makes for slow going.

[MoliskaDutch]

No kidding!! It may be slow now, but hopefully... taking my time now will speed up the finish work. I am a full time non-traditional college student and I really want to be on the move for the summer!! 3 1/2 weeks to go... I want to get everything framed in by the end of this weekend. then get the floor laid, then electric and plumbing for the sink. Oh yeah! and the paint job, I already got the paint long ago for old bus so there should be plenty.
Skinned the upper flasher lights, thought it would be easier to insulate and there is additional space that can be utilized.

[bansil]

3-1/2 weeks.....were you planning to go?north, south, east, or west

[MoliskaDutch]

Oh it's an "anywhere but here" kind of thing. I have been earning a degree for the past 3 years and am excited to get outta town.
Been toying around with some paint job ideas.. What do ya's think? I want to try to fade the two greens into each other. Maybe paint the dark and light solid and then come back with a small round stamp and fade the lighter color? Here is what I was able to do on the paint program.. managed to match the colors fairly well

I am planing on painting the lower window from the inside with white spray paint (rough up the glass a bit). I am hoping the rustoleum enamel will stick to the outside of the back and side door window glass. Has anybody used the rustoleum on glass? Did it hold up alright?
It just will not quit raining here. I really want to prime the floor next but the humidity hasn't dropped for weeks it feels like.

[bansil]

chia bus
.
.looks like it was sprayed with the green hiway grass that grows on anything

[Diesel Dan]

I like the color scheme, but I think painting the windows, especially with the angles you are showing, may not look so great. Bear in mind the white painted windows will not really match and blend in with the white roof. I could be wrong, but I think you would be taking a risk there. I've never seen a bus with painted windows that I thought looked good that way, which is why I skinned my windows with metal. But this is mainly aesthetic preference, so feel free to ignore me!

[Tango]

Unless I am mistaken (and I often am) paint on glass doesn't stay very long. Especially on the outside exposed to the elements. Might help to acid etch the glass first but then I've never tried it.

[MoliskaDutch]

Well thanks for all your input... all very valid!
I roughed up the glass a bit and went through one spray can of white. It is going to take quite a few coats to be opaque. I have a bunch of black tint I was going to use on the old bus but I think white would absorb less radiant energy. right? And, steering clear of tint should allow more light in the winter to enter (heat/radiant energy and less power usage for lighting during the short days), and use curtains in the summer for additional blockage of the sun during long days. right? [my curtain material is really nice: pleated soft-dark blue rayon face and backed with a heavy white interfacing. I think it will work nicely for a blackout effect and resist collecting dust]

I would love to skin some windows and acquire less drafty RV windows but...
Well, you can have TWO of the three:
1.) you can do it right
2.) you can do it quickly
3.) you can do it inexpensively
[cannot have all three]

I do try to do things right, but don't always have the cash (have to improvise or settle). I also want to get it on the road in a reasonable amount of time. So, the windows got spray paint (settle). I have a feeling you are right; the "white" will not match perfectly but I have a suspicion the windows being white will appear more homogenous than my original idea of black tint (I never thought about the mirrored stuff), giving the illusion of skinned windows? (improvise). If there are any other ideas out there let me know.... but I got impatient and started in on the spray paint like I said
Same reasoning to the original metal going back on the ceiling but with the addition of wood. I hope, once it is all trimmed out and stained up with a clear-coat, it will appear cabin-like with half the materials cost (already have clear-coat stuff).

You can see one half of the second to last window I did many coats. It looks okay, but if you look in the sun and closely at the glass you can see were I roughed it up a bit. Roughing up the windows was a last thought and I just grabbed a grinding wheel laying around (not on the grinder) and went back and forth on the glass.



Also, primed the floor and started with the overhead cabinets. [I left a flying buttress by the stove to cut later for a shelf maybe, might look funny]



Started on the sink side counter top and waterless toilet with urine diverted. I messed up on of the buckets AND the funnel in fabrication. But i think I can nail it next time around. Buckets are less than $3 at slowes right now.. [I never fully mounted the rear bed supports, so you can see I pulled one. might look funny if ya didn't know]


If this is all wordy and unorganized I blame my 8am soil science exam today. So glad it's the weekend.

[lornaschinske]

Paint on glass...

I painted some of my windows (interior side) with a spray can of satin finish clear paint. It looks like it was frosted/etched. If I decide I don't want the glass frosted, I can scrape it off with a razor blade. Let's light in, allows solar heat gain (good in winter, bad in summer), provides privacy without curtains. All I did was clean windows with white vinegar and a razor blade, wiped well to remove dust. Then using painters tape, taped off the parts that I didn't want painted, although it wasn't a terrible thing if overspray got on something since it's clear paint. Let dry. I did a 2nd coat. More than that didn't make any difference. The glass looks a little like rice paper... some spots are more "white" than others... everything looks like a heavy fog. I was originally looking for Krylons Frosted Glass paint but I couldn't find any. A clear spray in satin achieves the same effect.

And I can clean the painted side of the windows. I use white vinegar and a paper towel.

[MoliskaDutch]

I painted from the inside but my frantic scrape job would limit the ability to scrape off. My rational was that it would take some abuse behind the stove and sink areas... Oh well. so the official count is 2 for the bus.. no furrow strips and shoddy window "skin".
I never included a floor plan (not to scale, but eyeballed fairly close)



Next plans for another rainy weekend..
I am going to calk at least the holes in the floor where I need to lay lumber, even though the humidity is too high....
New bucket + another funnel = waterless composting toilet with urine diverted.
(get a bucket with a funnel tube sticking out the side to nest nicely with in another bucket with minimum bucket showing in the zone of do do.)

Maybe finish out the entire bathroom. I have enough wood to do it just gotta get the toilet assembly figured out for height
Also, went to lowes on a sunday night, talked to a college kid in the flooring department, asked about broken tiles: where do you keep them, how cheap? he said here, I knocked over these two boxes with the fork lift earlier.
He marked .o1 each at 30 count... and he had mortor and grout bags with holes.. got the whole set up for ten bucks!

[MoliskaDutch]

I'd just like to say that GMAC insurance is the way to go! they do not require the Motor home title which in MO means no state inspection. Going to see about the cost of plates. I bought the bus with a valid safety inspection BUT I thought they were good for 90 days. Nope, only 30 days.
Got back porch frame mounted up.
Compost toilet almost done.
(will post pics tomorrow)
I'm feeling good about the logistics. Crossing my fingers on the plates. Missouri has some interesting rules compared to other states.